Only method I've seen will give you a CEL mode but doesn't appear to cause vehicle to go into limp mode. One would reportedly have to disconnect one of the cylinder deactivation solenoids.
I need to monitor mine via OBD some morning to see how long it takes to get to full operating temp…
I’ve never noticed it to be slow to warm up and is already throwing out some warmth even when the low temp light goes out which isn’t that warm.
I’ve never researched whether different...
Sorry.. just hasn’t been my experience in nearly 40 years of driving.. never chased latest spec and always had great reliability on my engines. Aggressive service schedules served me well or I just made reliable choices in vehicles with greater tolerances to oil variances
IMO… in the end regular scheduled oil/filter changes are going to play a greater role in longevity rather than losing sleep over 0W-20 or 5W-30 or using the latest spec.
I’ve had great traction and stopping distances over the years with my Blizzaks on compact snow and ice. I travel a snowy mountain pass almost every weekend in the winter.
I'd entertain 5W-30 but do not have a reason to cutover at this time.
I have stuck with 0W-20 Mazda moly since new and basically no noticeable oil consumption as a I near 100k miles.
Same thing with 5W-30 since new in my '07 G35x.. no oil consumption
0W-20 in 1UR-FE in my GX 460.. getting...
Can you pinpoint front or rear and which side? Sounds like a wheel bearing I just replaced on my G35x. Do you notice the noise changing going into corners at speed?
Is it fairly consistent at speed regardless of the pavement surface condition and age?