Recent content by Kedis82ZE8

The coolant ratio appears to have been changed for heater core clogging. Not sure if ‘17+ are the same but a good thread/video here to replace heater core without removing dash. https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/cx-5-heater-core-replacement-and-radio-staying-on-fix.123873557/#post-6703734

My current one purchased in ‘22 from Costco was $99 I have a couple old batteries that allows me to wheel in a core at purchase time. It is still showing around 95% health using my tester. I usually replace them when health has dropped to 75-80%

https://costco.interstatebatteries.com/

Interesting observations here

I had a leak there too. It was rear main seal leak that was eventually fixed under warranty. It was a battle. https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/small-oil-leak-for-me-too.123854976/

OEM “kit” for Gen 1 https://www.mazdaswag.com/oem-parts/mazda-remote-engine-start-c930v7620a

I used this socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ3X7P/

Only method I've seen will give you a CEL mode but doesn't appear to cause vehicle to go into limp mode. One would reportedly have to disconnect one of the cylinder deactivation solenoids.

I need to monitor mine via OBD some morning to see how long it takes to get to full operating temp… I’ve never noticed it to be slow to warm up and is already throwing out some warmth even when the low temp light goes out which isn’t that warm. I’ve never researched whether different...

I would think the the turbo cars would have to heat up faster than NA due to turbo heat soak via the liquid cooling.

I’ve probably been moved along without paying attention to spec with my Amsoil use over the years.

Sorry.. just hasn’t been my experience in nearly 40 years of driving.. never chased latest spec and always had great reliability on my engines. Aggressive service schedules served me well or I just made reliable choices in vehicles with greater tolerances to oil variances

IMO… in the end regular scheduled oil/filter changes are going to play a greater role in longevity rather than losing sleep over 0W-20 or 5W-30 or using the latest spec.

I’ve had great traction and stopping distances over the years with my Blizzaks on compact snow and ice. I travel a snowy mountain pass almost every weekend in the winter.

I need to change mine again in spring.. I’m just using 50/50