Recent content by Deathspeed

boost sciences bypass valve was sold

the piping i have wouldnt really suit your needs for a SRI it was meant for cold side fmic piping, cause you need like a 45 right off of the turbo.

new boostsciences bypass valve, 60mm thottle body, manual boost controller, dual pillar pod, and a FMIC 24x6x3 with the end tanks its 32 3/4 long

one black one white they are about 2 ft. long

2" and 2.5" aluminum piping, 2.5" silicone 45, 2- 2.75 to 2.5 silicone 45's, 2- 2.5 silicone 90, 13- 2.5 t-bolt clamps, 1- 2" t-bolt clamp, 2- 2.75 t-bolt clamps, 3" AEM dryflow filter, 2 vinyl mazdaspeed stickers. more coming real soon. Make any reasonable offer

If i run open downpipe with out the o2 sensor that is after the cat will it mess up anything to do with the FTC?

i just want the S+J, not coated bare metal. Also what range of price for the 3" DP i know you dont AMM status to give price, but in the range of what

Well it depends on what you want your car to do. Because any turbo'd car will have some lag, so it takes time to build boost. the bigger the turbo the bigger the lag. the 28rs is an all around good turbo. but to your question you want your boost to build the fastest you can

Is the pipe used or new? does the mid have a cat?

Sooo now that you got a full of 3" DP's you gonna apply for AMM status and prototyping. IM in desperate need of this

HEY! im supposed to be on the 3"S+J list, you know put me on the mani list as well with 38mm ext. WG not sure if i wanna do a t3 or t2 yet so thats still in the air

interested in 3" DP depending cost, i also dont want with a 100 welds on it

boost leak you probably blew off your intercooler piping(beer)

Are the mazda owners of utah gonna have a meet anytime soon?(poke)

here are all of them i can measure the pipe to tell you what couplings you will need, i do not have the couplings anymore sorry. the bottom pic i buffed the pipe a little, but like i said it has scratches