If u don't think they'll keep cracking u could always have it welded up. I took my car to a garage right after I got it to put a new turbo in and the mechanic forced it to fit using the header bolts and they cracked across all four and around the junction
Catless 2.5"... I'll clean all the sensor plugs and see what that does. I'll have to wait till I get it all welded nd painted to take it to orielys nd have em check the cels again. When I put the Maf back on the pressure side the AF gauge will be flashing 10 barely under load at 15lbs vacuum...
And the maf is the large open sensor that connects to the 3" intake piping with 3 or 4 wires not the sensor that measures boost/vacuum that only has 2 wires and 2 1/8" vacuum lines right?
The Check engine light codes are tps reading higher than it actually is, fuel regulator, and o2 sensor.. I don't remember the actual codes do i need to get them?
That's where it was when I bought the car but my friend said it had to be on the low pressure intake side and that it thought it was having a whole lot of air coming into the turbo and that it was dumping fuel to compensate.. It's ran a hair leaner since I moved it by the air filter.. Dtc??
That's where it was when I got the car but my friend said it had to be on the low pressure side and that it was reading too much air and trying to dump fuel to compensate.. When I moved it seemed to help because before if it wasn't idling it was flashing 10.0 on the af gauge... DTC??