Recent content by 71dsp

You realize the test was only at 21.8 MPH (35 KM/H), right? I would certainly hope it would not collapse under a hit at that low speed!!!

Holy crap, that car come with 18s standard? ugh. My Prelude puts down 204 WHP with a fairly inefficient transmission, so I'm guessing about 240-ish crank HP (a stock 195 HP Prelude will only put down about 160 HP or so). Anyway, even though my car is not "powerful" I couldn't imagine running...

I have a Sparco EVO L for sale. :) http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123639765 I have a buyer interested in the side mounts, so I'd be willing to sell just the seat for less. :) Very little use. I ended up going with something that has more head protection: That being said...

Let me know, they're collecting dust right now. I might try to fit them, but I don't think I want to run a tire with that large of an OD. :) An LSD, clutch, and flywheel will make it feel like a new car. I know exactly how you feel. :)

I'd think 15s too. After some testing, we've found that 15s seem to work a bit better than 16s on our Prelude track cars. We run 225/45/15 Hoosiers on 15x7 wheels on one car and 245/45/16 Toyos on 16x7 wheels on the other. The other driver (who runs on 16s) feels his car does much better on...

I'm curious as to why one would want to run such a large rim and tire combo unless it's a very powerful car (and perhaps it is, I don't know what you drive). I shoehorned a set of 245/50/15 Hoosiers on a 15x7 rim (if you want the tires, let me know, I need to get rid of them and they're brand...

Why do you say that? It really depends on how the clutch is built. I have a Spec (soon to be Competition Clutch with the engine swap) 6 puck solid hub cerametallic clutch in my 95 Civic daily driver. It's almost as smooth as stock. The reason why is marcel in the clutch which helps smooth...

I replaced the stock struts in our P5 at around 70k miles. I had a problem with what I thought could be suspension noise. It turned out it was a combination of a bent subframe brace (the one you jack the car up on) and a torn lower control arm bushing. The struts were actually fine. I...

80k miles. No autocross and no racing, it's a daily driver. I have a track car for any track events I go to. :)

GhostLinker is right, #4 in the diagram is the adjuster. You're supposed to turn it to compress the piston. Once the piston is compressed fully, you install the pads and the reinstall the caliper onto the car. Then turn the adjuster until the pads just touch the rotor. Back off 1/3 of a...

I have better things to do when I'm trying to get something done than stop every 5 minutes to take friggin pictures. I knew someone would say something about taking pictures. (bang) Haven't you guys ever seen the underside of your car? I don't know how exciting pictures of the transmission...

The problem is probably the adjuster. If you back off it just a bit, the pads would probably stop dragging. Did you check that, or have them check that? No sense in spending money if the caliper is actually fine, just the pads were installed incorrectly.

I usually don't stop to take pictures because I'm either too dirty or too busy. I didn't pay attention to the intake manifold, but it probably would help you reach the bolts easier. To drop the subframe, the cross brace that holds the front engine mount has to be removed, the uprights need to...

Big effing hammer...the tool of choice. :)

A tech would have to use a BFH to install the front rotors on the rear, as the fronts are vented, and much thicker. :)