2017 CX-5 2.5L Crank No Start issue

[richpiano]

Hello all. New member here. I have had this CX-5 GT since ~2021 (75k miles). Literally no issues, just regular oil changes and tires. Now at 168k miles. While driving Friday night - accelerating around 20 mph, a really bad pinging/rattle occurred for about 2-3 seconds. I actually thought a cv axle broke based on the sound. I can't remember if I turned the engine off or it stalled, but it would not restart. Tried reconnecting the MAF and coils + checked fuses. No results

Went out and bought an OBD2 reader. Codes were
- P0365 - Camshaft position sensor B circuit (Bank 1)
- P061B - Internal control module torque calculation performance
- P061D - Internal control module engine air mass performance
- P0102 - Mass or volume air flow circuit low input - may have been from messing with the MAF after the fact??
- P0113 - Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high input

I replaced one camshaft sensor with an aftermarket sensor. Tried switching that new sensor with the other location. I can hear the fuel pump prime under the seats. Pulled all of the spark plugs to inspect. Oil in one of the cylinders from a valve cover leak. Plugs were old and worn but otherwise unremarkable. Tested spark with the worst condition plug and I'm getting 1 spark on crank, then no more (almost like ECU is cutting spark).

At this point I gave up and had the car towed home. I bought a compression tester. all cylinders getting 110-120 psi. Low, but shouldn't cause no start. I tried starting fluid in the intake so see if it was a fuel issue. Tried clearing the codes and this time caught just 2 codes
- P0365 cam sensor again
- P0335 Crankshaft position sensor A circuit

Today: ran to autozone to get the only crank sensor in stock. No improvement. At this point worried about timing maybe being off?? Pulled the valve cover to inspect. In doing so, I unfortunately broke the plastic on the VVT solenoid so I will replace that. Timing at TDC looks perfect with a tight chain and no visible wear on the guides, cams look good. There were a couple of scratches near the solenoid. I will post a picture if I can.

Unfortunately, I'm at the end of my expertise. I'm going to order and try OEM camshaft & crank sensors plus a new solenoid, at which point I have no more tricks.
Would a bad VVT solenoid cause a crank no start with cam & crank codes? Is something bigger going on? Has anyone ever experienced this?

Edit: I should also note that I replaced the battery yesterday as well, just in case

 

[ADS-B]

Wow, this is really an interesting situation! From what I've googled so far, it looks like there is a bad communication with the ECU. I would unplug the ECU connector, inspect the wiring and contact pins, maybe apply some Stabilant 22 and reconnect the connector to ECU. Then I would try to clear the codes and see what happens.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Wow, this is really an interesting situation! From what I've googled so far, it looks like there is a bad communication with the ECU. I would unplug the ECU connector, inspect the wiring and contact pins, maybe apply some Stabilant 22 and reconnect the connector to ECU. Then I would try to clear the codes and see what happens.

Could be due to a weak battery?

 

[richpiano]

Could be due to a weak battery?

I was hoping this would be the case. My battery was only 2 years old. I went and warrantied it out anyway and the new one didn't change anything

Wow, this is really an interesting situation! From what I've googled so far, it looks like there is a bad communication with the ECU. I would unplug the ECU connector, inspect the wiring and contact pins, maybe apply some Stabilant 22 and reconnect the connector to ECU. Then I would try to clear the codes and see what happens.

Thanks for the suggestion. While I have the valve cover off waiting for a new gasket and VVT solenoid, I won't be able to try starting it but I can definitely inspect. The ECU is the same as the "PCM" correct? I really think I may have some sort of electrical fault somewhere. Is there a way to basically factory reset the ECU?

 

[ADS-B]

I don't know how to reset the ECU and I believe only the dealership has the fancy tool to reset/reprogram, I am not even sure what exactly they do to it. Here's a picture of the ECU location.

 

[richpiano]

I don't know how to reset the ECU and I believe only the dealership has the fancy tool to reset/reprogram, I am not even sure what exactly they do to it. Here's a picture of the ECU location.
View attachment 342182

Thank you! I was thinking this was it, but wanted to make sure. I pulled off both connectors and sprayed with contact cleaner. Reconnected and waiting for spark plugs, vvt solenoid, valve cover gasket (for a leak into spark plug hole), OEM crankshaft sensor. I'm doubtful these parts will fix it but I'll definitely give it a shot

 

[Lazy2.5]

Went out and bought an OBD2 reader. Codes were
- P0365 - Camshaft position sensor B circuit (Bank 1)
- P061B - Internal control module torque calculation performance
- P061D - Internal control module engine air mass performance

I've hardly ever seen codes like this before.

- P0102 - Mass or volume air flow circuit low input - may have been from messing with the MAF after the fact??

What did you do?


It's possible that the ECU could be faulty. Don't quote me on that, I would not throw any more money into this car without having a trusted mechanic look it over.

Unplugging the battery for a certain period of time will fully reset the ECU, but not the AT.

 

[richpiano]

I've hardly ever seen codes like this before.


What did you do?


It's possible that the ECU could be faulty. Don't quote me on that, I would not throw any more money into this car without having a trusted mechanic look it over.

Unplugging the battery for a certain period of time will fully reset the ECU, but not the AT.

I simply unplugged/removed the MAF and inspected it. After I replaced it and cleared codes it didn't come back up. I've never had issues with the MAF and never had it out until after the stall. Looks squeaky clean so didn't bother to clean it. Unfortunately I didn't have a code reader until the next day, so I feel that code popped after the stall.

Yes, I agree with you that it is possible I have a faulty ECU. I'm hoping that is not the case but I feel that it is a high probability. Is that something the dealer will have to replace?

I think my two real codes right now are crankshaft and camshaft codes. I have OEM replacements coming in. Least I can do is try replacing them with OEM before I take it to a mechanic.

I am getting 1-2 Sparks but not constant spark when I pull and test start with the plug grounded. This seems odd to me like the ECU is capable of spark but cutting it quickly. And the fact that it won't run on starting fluid tells me it is a spark or electrical problem. I just don't know exactly what.

 

[richpiano]

dont take my word for granted but it kind of looks like its the same type for both even though its 2 separate sensors.
Dont forget the O-ring as well.

You can also check the sensor out and check its voltage if you are good with electronics. Check wiring and connectors as well.
Sensor is magnetic and attracts metal crap, a good visual look after remov may also show whether its clean.
Usually they are simple sensors and not just die so easily.

View attachment 299331

Terminal​	Voltage (V)​	Condition​
A​	Approx. 5.0​	Under any condition​
B​	Below 1.0​	Under any condition​
C​	Above 4.5​	High output*​
Below 0.8​	Low output*​

* Output voltage varies with crankshaft rotation.



View attachment 299329

Fail-safe



Intake CMP sensor

DTC No.​	Fail-safe function​
P0340:00​	Set the electric variable valve timing control to the maximum cam retard mode.

Exhaust CMP sensor

DTC No.​	Fail-safe function​
P0365:00​	Stops the fuel injection. Stops the ignition.

I found this post while doing searches this morning. Notably, I'm having a code related to the exhaust camshaft position sensor throughout my attempts at fixing. I have only tried an aftermarket sensor, which I guess theoretically could be garbage right out of the box. I have new crank and camshaft sensors on order from the dealer. If this post is true, my exhaust "CMP" sensor could be causing the exact issues I am facing. I should have tried an OEM sensor first, but I was hoping to get an immediate fix with parts I could buy over the weekend and had no access to an OEM sensor while it was sitting dead on the side of the road.

I still would be surprised to find out an OEM sensor would just fail out of the blue, however.