Yep I read the same thing. Im not opening or closing anything and have waited the full hour and even sometimes a few hours. He says later in the video you may need to wait a half hour or even longer. At this point I plan to take to the car shop again and see what they find. I just thought I would see if I could find it myself first.I checked the video. I think the only thing missing from it is to wait one hour after connecting everything. i would recommend opening the driver door far in advance also (but i don’t know where the door switch is on a cx-5)
Also like he said keep your keyfob far away.
So I had a Indy shop check it out. Turns out it was a compustar remote start my car has that I totally forgot I had as I never use since I have a heated garage. I checked into it and it was installed 4-5 years ago by an authorized GM installer/reseller. Probably no warranty on it now Im sure but Im just leaving it unhooked for now. I sent that GM dealership the Bill and findings to see what they had to say about it but have not heard back yet. There was a fuse hidden up in the dash for it. No wonder when I had every fuse removed from my car the High Amp draw never went down. Stupid me for not realizing I had an after market remote start.Hello nfear24. I'm having the same issues with my 16 CX5 GT. We thought it was the rear BSM modules from being exposed to dirt/rocks and while that seemed to help the battery is still going dead after a day or so. I was curious if you've had any luck with your findings. Thanks.
HII am racking my brain trying to figure out my battery drain.
Info:
2016.5 CX5 Grand Touring
Brand new battery
Original alternator
No aftermarket modifications.
I went away for a week. I came back to a dead battery. I figured ok yea this is normal. So I jumped it and let it charge. I said ok that’s it. Then over night it discharged to probably around 12.3 v bc it struggled to turn over. I thought that’s weird it was never like this before. So charge the battery by driving. The battery never really got over 12.3 volts when turned off. I tested the alternator and I get 13.8 volts when vehicle is running. I changed the battery 3 days ago under warranty because it wasnt holding charge. The new battery after a nice drive was at 12.8 volts when I turned the vehicle off. Over night it dropped to around 12.5-12.6. So I figure this is the resting voltage. Fast forward to today and it was dead this morning. So I took out the multimeter and tested the negative in series and was getting around 1.6-1.7 amps drawn. Then I tested the voltage drop of the fuses after the computer was completely shut down, and saw 4 of the low profile fuses drawing about 4.6 millivolts all together. I pulled the four fuses and when in series the draw went down to around .4 amps. Which seems like a normal draw. The car is undriveable without those fuses. I attached a picture showing which fuses. I have yet to test the cases fuses or relays bc I’m waiting for a tool to come in instead of using pliers or the included tiny tool. In the picture the white number is the millivolts dropage. Any help will be appreciated. I will test the internal fuse box when I get home.
I replaced the battery within warranty, and it no longer dies. Ive been away for as long as a week and car still starts.HI
Got the same problem. Have you found solution?
It still starts, but it doesn't mean the drain is gone. It could be as low as 11.5 to 12v. You'll know for sure by measuring battery voltage.I replaced the battery within warranty, and it no longer dies. Ive been away for as long as a week and car still starts.
Yea I haven’t. Checked for a drain but I have checked battery voltage occasionally . It never drops below 12.4It still starts, but it doesn't mean the drain is gone. It could be as low as 11.5 to 12v. You'll know for sure by measuring battery voltage.