Questions for my next Service Appointment

[ColoradoDriver]

In response to your other points - rear differential oil MUST be changed (as per Mazda's published schedule for 2016) at around 30k miles. The front transfer case should be changed if it was submerged under water. However, the verdict here (in this forum) is to still go ahead and do it (front transfer case along with rear diff oil) when changing rear diff oik as both are inter-linked.

Yeah that's what confused me as my 2014 manual states to only change it if:

*3 If the vehicle is operated primarily under any of the following conditions, replace the rear differential oil at
every 48,000 km (30,000 miles).
a) Towing a trailer or using a car-top carrier
b) Driving in dusty, sandy or wet conditions
c) Extended periods of idling or low speed operation
d) Repeated short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles)

So I guess I am 31k miles overdue.

 

[Jman136]

Yeah that's what confused me as my 2014 manual states to only change it if:



So I guess I am 31k miles overdue.

So, for a 2017 GT, what does this service cost?

I know, I should read my manual, but its buried somewhere in a box (just moved.)

What needs to be done service wise before 30k? How about after 30k?

Thanks!

 

[GJ-Molestor]

If you drop your transmission pan and look at the magnet, you'd be glad you did...

This is very true. If you plan to do only a drain and fill you're best off leaving it alone or you risk a high chance of metal debris attached to this magnet getting stuck in one of the transmissions many passageways. if you're gonna open it up, make sure the new transmission pan (which contains the magnet filter thing) is well sealed with some sort of gasket paste. if you're gonna open it up, use good fluid. If you want the best for your car use Redline ATF. the transmission needs to be warm when you drop the pan to get the most fluid out. no point in draining it out the little drain hole - just drop the pan right away to drain the fluid quicker.

things I recommend:

-spark plugs
-fuel system cleaner
-alignment
-full brake flush
-caliper conditioning/service/sliding pin lubrication
-engine air filter? not sure if you mentioned that.
- differential fluid change is definitely a good idea(the thing that transfers the spinning engine driveshaft into an axle for both your rear-wheels)
-make sure the car is covered in lots wax if you want your black paint to look good later on.
- that just about sums it up I believe. some sort of engine flush or running shell rotella for one interval will help keep your motor nice and clean, but you change your oil on time so I wouldnt be too worried about that. you also may want to consider using thicker oil during the warmer months if you run the engine hard - 0w20 isnt really an issue for cold weather and normal driving. I am just alarmed that up to 10w50 is recommended in australia (meaning this engine almost has the rod bearing specs of very high revving motors) so going all the way to the other end of the spectrum in terms of oil thickness is alarming to me as far as long-term reliability is concerned. it's not an issue if you don't plan to keep the car over the long run. just something to consider as you clearly care about your car.

 

[GJ-Molestor]

From many BMW forums I realized if you did it late that caused tranny failures as the gunk etc came loose and damaged the interior of the transmission

Transmissions don't have just an "interior." inside is a very, very intricate maze of many different passageways most of which are very thin.

BMW's transmissions are a completely different design. these passageways are even more intricate and the transmission is more dependent on good quality clean fluid than your typical transmission, so that's an exception in terms of failure at relatively low mileage due to lack of fluid servicing. when looking at something like our Mazda transmission, it is not too late to change your fluid until roughly 125K, maybe even 150+K if you are lucky (although you'd be very stupid to push the poor thing this far)

if you plan to service your transmission, you might want to refer to my post above this one for some good info. just drain/fill is a terrible idea because you very well may get s*** stuck in one of these passageways by leaving the old magnet filter in there.

 

[Unobtanium]

Yeah that's what confused me as my 2014 manual states to only change it if:



So I guess I am 31k miles overdue.

I had mine checked at the 30K point, it looked fine, and I didn't muck with it.

 

[Unobtanium]

This is very true. If you plan to do only a drain and fill you're best off leaving it alone or you risk a high chance of metal debris attached to this magnet getting stuck in one of the transmissions many passageways. if you're gonna open it up, make sure the new transmission pan (which contains the magnet filter thing) is well sealed with some sort of gasket paste. if you're gonna open it up, use good fluid. If you want the best for your car use Redline ATF. the transmission needs to be warm when you drop the pan to get the most fluid out. no point in draining it out the little drain hole - just drop the pan right away to drain the fluid quicker.

things I recommend:

-spark plugs
-fuel system cleaner
-alignment
-full brake flush
-caliper conditioning/service/sliding pin lubrication
-engine air filter? not sure if you mentioned that.
- differential fluid change is definitely a good idea(the thing that transfers the spinning engine driveshaft into an axle for both your rear-wheels)
-make sure the car is covered in lots wax if you want your black paint to look good later on.
- that just about sums it up I believe. some sort of engine flush or running shell rotella for one interval will help keep your motor nice and clean, but you change your oil on time so I wouldnt be too worried about that. you also may want to consider using thicker oil during the warmer months if you run the engine hard - 0w20 isnt really an issue for cold weather and normal driving. I am just alarmed that up to 10w50 is recommended in australia (meaning this engine almost has the rod bearing specs of very high revving motors) so going all the way to the other end of the spectrum in terms of oil thickness is alarming to me as far as long-term reliability is concerned. it's not an issue if you don't plan to keep the car over the long run. just something to consider as you clearly care about your car.

Redline ATF is a wonderful way to ruin your SkyActiv. It was made for a specific fluid, and not just some random concoction meant for random transmissions. This is part of why I don't advocate changing the fluid. Some people will go and ruin the thing because they over-think it.

 

[yugrus]

If you want the best for your car use Redline ATF.

no point in draining it out the little drain hole - just drop the pan right away to drain the fluid quicker.

Never do either.
Please GJ, this is ridiculous. Redline ATF (any of the eight types of the fluid that they offer) has nothing to do with Mazda type FZ ATF. That's how you blow the transmission up.
Have you ever dropped the pan without draining the fluid first? There are some cars that don't have the drain hole in the pan, but Mazda does, so use it. Otherwise enjoy the hot fluid all over your hands and potentially, the head after you crack the gasket. Cleaning the mess takes way more time then draining oil...

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Never do either.
Please GJ, this is ridiculous. Redline ATF (any of the eight types of the fluid that they offer) has nothing to do with Mazda type FZ ATF. That's how you blow the transmission up.
Have you ever dropped the pan without draining the fluid first? There are some cars that don't have the drain hole in the pan, but Mazda does, so use it. Otherwise enjoy the hot fluid all over your hands and potentially, the head after you crack the gasket. Cleaning the mess takes way more time then draining oil...

Thank you. I would of course use whatever genuine Mazda fluid is specified.

 

[yrwei52]

Never do either.
Please GJ, this is ridiculous. Redline ATF (any of the eight types of the fluid that they offer) has nothing to do with Mazda type FZ ATF. That's how you blow the transmission up.
Have you ever dropped the pan without draining the fluid first? There are some cars that don't have the drain hole in the pan, but Mazda does, so use it. Otherwise enjoy the hot fluid all over your hands and potentially, the head after you crack the gasket. Cleaning the mess takes way more time then draining oil...

Yeah, Redline simply doesn't make any ATF compatible to Mazda FZ ATF, nor any ATF for SkyActiv-Drive transmission. So never use any Redline ATF for our SA automatic transmission! Check Redline website for details.

You definitely have experience of changing ATF. What you described is absolutely correct, especially "cleaning the mess takes way more time then draining oil..."!

In addition, even if we take ATF pan down changing the fluid, we can only replace a half of the entire 8.2 quarts of old ATF at most! Mixing fresh ATF with old fluid half-and-half is unavoidable. The only benefit taking the pan down is to get ATF cartridge/filter replaced. And may be cleaning up the pan and metal shavings stuck on the magnet. If we do only drain-and-fill, those metal shavings won't go anywhere but on the magnet, hence it's still better than not changing it but can skip the time-consuming job of cleaning the old seal, and the tricky job of applying the silicon gasket on the pan.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Yeah, Redline simply doesn't make any ATF compatible to Mazda FZ ATF, nor any ATF for SkyActiv-Drive transmission. So never use any Redline ATF for our SA automatic transmission! Check Redline website for details.

You definitely have experience of changing ATF. What you described is absolutely correct, especially "cleaning the mess takes way more time then draining oil..."!

In addition, even if we take ATF pan down changing the fluid, we can only replace a half of the entire 8.2 quarts of old ATF at most! Mixing fresh ATF with old fluid half-and-half is unavoidable. The only benefit taking the pan down is to get ATF cartridge/filter replaced. And may be cleaning up the pan and metal shavings stuck on the magnet. If we do only drain-and-fill, those metal shavings won't go anywhere but on the magnet, hence it's still better than not changing it but can skip the time-consuming job of cleaning the old seal, and the tricky job of applying the silicon gasket on the pan.

Well as someone who is not car savvy (but willing to learn how to fix some things or do certain maintenance), this is looking more like something I'll pay someone to do after I ensure they use the correct fluid of course.

 

[yrwei52]

Well as someone who is not car savvy (but willing to learn how to fix some things or do certain maintenance), this is looking more like something I'll pay someone to do after I ensure they use the correct fluid of course.

At 61K miles, I'd do ATF change with new cartridge, as well as gear lubricant change on front transfer case and real differential. But the more difficult job for you is to find a trustworthy service to your CX-5 as you said you're not car savvy. If you can't find any reputable independent repair shops specializing in Mazda vehicles, Mazda dealer is your last resort but there're many car dealers doing poor job on service. One benefit of going to dealer is most of time they'll use genuine parts and fluids, with higher price of course. The better alternative is you buy all the fluids and parts you prefer online to save money, and take them to an indie mechanic. You should watch them making sure they're doing the right job. The best is to find some friend who is knowledgeable and willing to show you how to do the maintenance. Unfortunately you're in Colorado otherwise I can show you step by step of how-to's.

 

[GJ-Molestor]

Never do either.
Please GJ, this is ridiculous. Redline ATF (any of the eight types of the fluid that they offer) has nothing to do with Mazda type FZ ATF. That's how you blow the transmission up.
Have you ever dropped the pan without draining the fluid first? There are some cars that don't have the drain hole in the pan, but Mazda does, so use it. Otherwise enjoy the hot fluid all over your hands and potentially, the head after you crack the gasket. Cleaning the mess takes way more time then draining oil...

... you will not cause damage to your transmission by using better quality fluid. Mazdas OEM fluid is cheap and nothing special.

Yes, I have changed the transmission fluid on my BMW before, and I just dropped the pan straight away... all you gotta do is put something big underneath to catch everything. I didnt make a mess, and none of it got onto me...

 

[Anchorman]

... you will not cause damage to your transmission by using better quality fluid. Mazdas OEM fluid is cheap and nothing special.

Yes, I have changed the transmission fluid on my BMW before, and I just dropped the pan straight away... all you gotta do is put something big underneath to catch everything. I didnt make a mess, and none of it got onto me...

And if Colorado Driver ruins his transmission, youll pay all his costs?

 

[ColoradoDriver]

At 61K miles, I'd do ATF change with new cartridge, as well as gear lubricant change on front transfer case and real differential. But the more difficult job for you is to find a trustworthy service to your CX-5 as you said you're not car savvy. If you can't find any reputable independent repair shops specializing in Mazda vehicles, Mazda dealer is your last resort but there're many car dealers doing poor job on service. One benefit of going to dealer is most of time they'll use genuine parts and fluids, with higher price of course. The better alternative is you buy all the fluids and parts you prefer online to save money, and take them to an indie mechanic. You should watch them making sure they're doing the right job. The best is to find some friend who is knowledgeable and willing to show you how to do the maintenance. Unfortunately you're in Colorado otherwise I can show you step by step of how-to's.

You know...I don't have a spot to work on my own car where I love (condo), but it got me thinking that I have a buddy who works on his own. Maybe a 6 pack he'll let me use his driveway, jackstands, etc.

I watched some videos, doesn't look that bad to do. Maybe a little tedious with bolts.

Hmm....

 

[GJ-Molestor]

And I’d Colorado Driver ruins his transmission, you’ll pay all his costs?

Well s***, Im so confident he wont damage anything that Im gonna say yes...

 

[yugrus]

Well s***, I’m so confident he won’t damage anything that I’m gonna say yes...

So, out of curiosity to tap your expertise, which of the eight available Redline ATF types should one use in Skyactiv transmission?

 

[mazdadude]

... you will not cause damage to your transmission by using better quality fluid. Mazdas OEM fluid is cheap and nothing special.

(gah)
Blackstone Labs had no problems with the cheap and nothing special after testing it after extended duty... Please cite your source for "cheap and nothing special".


Yes as a matter of fact, you CAN cause damage by using a "better quality fluid". Using a fluid other than factory spec, which uses different chemicals, solvents, and compounds, can cause damage.

 

[yrwei52]

Well s***, Im so confident he wont damage anything that Im gonna say yes...

Even Redline itself doesn't have that confidence to endorse its ATF to be used in SkyActiv-Drive transmission, where is your confidence coming from?

 

[ColoradoDriver]

And I’d Colorado Driver ruins his transmission, you’ll pay all his costs?

Yeah, I'd use the specified Mazda fluid required.

GJ, I don't know why you keep pushing Redline. Even just going to their site and plugging in the CX-5 info shows they do not have a compatible transmission fluid. This isn't the first thread we've covered this.

 

[mazdadude]

Yeah, I'd use the specified Mazda fluid required.

GJ, I don't know why you keep pushing Redline. Even just going to their site and plugging in the CX-5 info shows they do not have a compatible transmission fluid. This isn't the first thread we've covered this.

If it were mine, and I intended to keep for the extended duration like you said, my list for the 60k service would be:

Drain and refill with factory fluids (no flushing, or backflushing) : Transmission and rear diff.


Brake fluid service and lubing servicing the caliper pins would be nice to do also. Unless you have a brake job coming soon anyways...

You will have the spark plug service coming up at 75k also.