paddle shift on CX-5
- Thread starter elviszhe
- Start date
Ok, I gave this a go today using the parts I listed previously. For me its a "fail" at this point. Disassembly was no problem. The airbag is pretty easy to get off and the connectors are color coded so you can't mix them up. The hardest part of disassembly was getting the pods off the steering wheel without breaking anything.
Assembly was where my problems began. First the steering wheel "back" that I got was NOT a direct swap for my steering wheel. I was able to make it fit with the help of a dremmel. There are some standoffs on the replacement back that do not exist on the original, those conflict with the structure of my wheel so I ground them off. Also two small tabs at the bottom are too far apart and had to be bent to fit.
After that it fits, but fitment is not as nice as original. I'm not pumped about that.
The big issue is after plugging everything in, and running the car, I get nothing from the paddles??? They look nice but thats about it. I'm a bit bummed, but i'm going to take a break, watch some F1, and pull everything apart tomorrow to make sure all the connections are tight. If it still doesn't work that means I may need to add the harness from Japanparts. If that doesn't work, then the parts come off.
Assembly was where my problems began. First the steering wheel "back" that I got was NOT a direct swap for my steering wheel. I was able to make it fit with the help of a dremmel. There are some standoffs on the replacement back that do not exist on the original, those conflict with the structure of my wheel so I ground them off. Also two small tabs at the bottom are too far apart and had to be bent to fit.
After that it fits, but fitment is not as nice as original. I'm not pumped about that.
The big issue is after plugging everything in, and running the car, I get nothing from the paddles??? They look nice but thats about it. I'm a bit bummed, but i'm going to take a break, watch some F1, and pull everything apart tomorrow to make sure all the connections are tight. If it still doesn't work that means I may need to add the harness from Japanparts. If that doesn't work, then the parts come off.
Not to throw cold water on your work, I was actually hoping you would be reporting success in this thread. But, I wonder if there is some programming that's required. Cars sold in Japan as well as other regions have various regional differences programmed into the vehicle. Some examples that come to mind are language, speed unit display, and probably other regional differences. Could it be possible that the paddle shifter functions are another one of these options that are built in to the cars software, and are activated by some sort of regional setting? Just odd that there is nothing good or bad by adding the hardware...
I can't confirm or deny the need for programming, but from all accounts that should not be required.
I also got a little bored, and went back to pull airbag off the car to check my wiring. Lo and behold, the replacement back piece does not have the same access ports to unlock the airbag! So now, I cannot remove the airbag, therefore I cannot remove the steering wheel, therefore I cannot remove the parts that do not work.
As with any other project, once frustration sets in like this I know it's time to step back and put the tools down. So that's where I'm at right now. Hopefully, I can find a way to unlock the airbag without having to cut off the back piece that I just installed, because that's the only solution I can think of at the moment…
...sent...
I also got a little bored, and went back to pull airbag off the car to check my wiring. Lo and behold, the replacement back piece does not have the same access ports to unlock the airbag! So now, I cannot remove the airbag, therefore I cannot remove the steering wheel, therefore I cannot remove the parts that do not work.
As with any other project, once frustration sets in like this I know it's time to step back and put the tools down. So that's where I'm at right now. Hopefully, I can find a way to unlock the airbag without having to cut off the back piece that I just installed, because that's the only solution I can think of at the moment…
...sent...
Srad600 - Sorry to hear about the issues you encountered. I know a lot of us were hoping you'd have a plug-and-play experience, and I'm still hopeful you'll get this working.
A couple thoughts that occurred to me reading your posts:
1. After re-assembly, did you test the steering wheel switches (radio, cruise crontrol, phone, etc.) or the horn? If those aren't working either, it might indicate a problem with the new writing harness or a bad connection with the clockspring.
2. Did you check the part # listed on the back plate to confirm that they sent the right part? I was under the impression the Mazda steering wheel parts were modular among all the Kodo models, so it seems strange that you had issues with yours.
Thanks for keeping us updated, and good luck with the troubleshooting when you're ready to get back to it.
A couple thoughts that occurred to me reading your posts:
1. After re-assembly, did you test the steering wheel switches (radio, cruise crontrol, phone, etc.) or the horn? If those aren't working either, it might indicate a problem with the new writing harness or a bad connection with the clockspring.
2. Did you check the part # listed on the back plate to confirm that they sent the right part? I was under the impression the Mazda steering wheel parts were modular among all the Kodo models, so it seems strange that you had issues with yours.
Thanks for keeping us updated, and good luck with the troubleshooting when you're ready to get back to it.
1. Yes, after reassembly all other buttons and switches work just as they did before the modification.
2. I did check the part number on the bag that the plate was in, and it did match the part number that I ordered. I do not believe the full part number is listed on the back plate itself, but I'll check that to be sure… Assuming I can get it off in one piece.
...sent...
2. I did check the part number on the bag that the plate was in, and it did match the part number that I ordered. I do not believe the full part number is listed on the back plate itself, but I'll check that to be sure… Assuming I can get it off in one piece.
...sent...
littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
This is not really assuring that it's "plug & play" since the controls won't work and now the airbag cannot be removed due to the different cover.
Hopefully it's not a programming issue.
Hopefully it's not a programming issue.
CX-5 Norway
Member
- :
- CX-5 2.0 awd
Sorry to hear Srad600.
Did Your steering Wheel have all 4 mounting holes complete with threads?
My Guess is you need the lower wiring set:
K015-V7-481 this is Mazda's genuine harness. This item was not possible to order here in Norway( number not known in system).
I ordered the lower wiring set K015-V7-481 from japanparts.com. It is not listed on Their site, but they have an option to request for parts not listed.
The prize i got is 3200 yen, (around € 25/approx the same in USD) +1000 yen in postage.
This was not nessesary on SVShootingStar's Mazda 6, but they come also from factory with paddle shift on some models to some markeds.
As you can see if you follow the link below(on pdf page d) for 2016 CX-5's, in Japan you get paddles as an optional kit and the lower wiring is also listed as a part needed(K015-V7-481).
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123850602-JDM-Accessories
You can of corse take of the covers to see for yourself if the wiring is installed:
http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums...hift/Padlle shift - wiring/12_zps7559327b.jpg
Plug A: http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af321/duylandrover/Paddle Shift/Option 2/13_zps330cc70a.jpg
Plug B: http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af321/duylandrover/Paddle Shift/Option 2/12_zps2e51968f.jpg
Plug "A" is the lefthand Connector going into the start/stop unit(2 wires, not correct colors in Pictures), it needs wires in pos L and N.
Plug "B" is the righthand Connector going into the lower clockspring(3 wires, not correct colors in Pictures), it needs wires in pos H, F and D.
H goes to L
D goes to N
F is a solid ground going up to the paddles.
I suggest everybody to replace the bolt holding the steering wheel(it is a safety issue) part: 9YA011003A ,
and use a torque wrench when installing it.
Regarding removing air bags:
Disconnect car's battery at least one minute before disconnecting el Connector from airbag,
and(THIS IS IMPORTANT) NEWER TOUCH connector pins on the airbag or Place the airbag so as they can get in contact With carpets or similar.
Our body and fabrics can hold static electrisity. (this is allways valid when handling Electronic Components).
Regarding the wiring kit K015-V7-481, it comes in a bag with dual sets(3 wires in each set) and of course only one set is needed.
The difference is the lenght of the 2 pins going into the start/stop unit Connector, and on those two same pins are there a small "guide tap" 1-2mm high and long at the end of the pins facing the wire side. Those "guide taps" are mounted differently on one set, compared to the other set. Ofcourse only one set fits and is correct for Your car, check Your plastic el Connector going into the start/stop unit and you will se what set you should use.
One of the Three wires has a pin in one end(goes into lower clockspring Connector(plug "B") position F, and the other end is just a cut wire and needs to be Connected to solid ground. I found a ground lug on my 2012 European car to the right of my steering column(above and behind the Accelerator pedal).
The electrical pins are latched in place in the plastic Connectors. Before pushing in the pins you should lift the small plastic "strip" that goes across one side of those plastic Connectors, a couple of millimeters. You can se it on the Picture of plug "A".
Sorry about my English Language, i hope you understand what i try to explain to you.
Did Your steering Wheel have all 4 mounting holes complete with threads?
My Guess is you need the lower wiring set:
K015-V7-481 this is Mazda's genuine harness. This item was not possible to order here in Norway( number not known in system).
I ordered the lower wiring set K015-V7-481 from japanparts.com. It is not listed on Their site, but they have an option to request for parts not listed.
The prize i got is 3200 yen, (around € 25/approx the same in USD) +1000 yen in postage.
This was not nessesary on SVShootingStar's Mazda 6, but they come also from factory with paddle shift on some models to some markeds.
As you can see if you follow the link below(on pdf page d) for 2016 CX-5's, in Japan you get paddles as an optional kit and the lower wiring is also listed as a part needed(K015-V7-481).
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123850602-JDM-Accessories
You can of corse take of the covers to see for yourself if the wiring is installed:
http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums...hift/Padlle shift - wiring/12_zps7559327b.jpg
Plug A: http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af321/duylandrover/Paddle Shift/Option 2/13_zps330cc70a.jpg
Plug B: http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af321/duylandrover/Paddle Shift/Option 2/12_zps2e51968f.jpg
Plug "A" is the lefthand Connector going into the start/stop unit(2 wires, not correct colors in Pictures), it needs wires in pos L and N.
Plug "B" is the righthand Connector going into the lower clockspring(3 wires, not correct colors in Pictures), it needs wires in pos H, F and D.
H goes to L
D goes to N
F is a solid ground going up to the paddles.
I suggest everybody to replace the bolt holding the steering wheel(it is a safety issue) part: 9YA011003A ,
and use a torque wrench when installing it.
Regarding removing air bags:
Disconnect car's battery at least one minute before disconnecting el Connector from airbag,
and(THIS IS IMPORTANT) NEWER TOUCH connector pins on the airbag or Place the airbag so as they can get in contact With carpets or similar.
Our body and fabrics can hold static electrisity. (this is allways valid when handling Electronic Components).
Regarding the wiring kit K015-V7-481, it comes in a bag with dual sets(3 wires in each set) and of course only one set is needed.
The difference is the lenght of the 2 pins going into the start/stop unit Connector, and on those two same pins are there a small "guide tap" 1-2mm high and long at the end of the pins facing the wire side. Those "guide taps" are mounted differently on one set, compared to the other set. Ofcourse only one set fits and is correct for Your car, check Your plastic el Connector going into the start/stop unit and you will se what set you should use.
One of the Three wires has a pin in one end(goes into lower clockspring Connector(plug "B") position F, and the other end is just a cut wire and needs to be Connected to solid ground. I found a ground lug on my 2012 European car to the right of my steering column(above and behind the Accelerator pedal).
The electrical pins are latched in place in the plastic Connectors. Before pushing in the pins you should lift the small plastic "strip" that goes across one side of those plastic Connectors, a couple of millimeters. You can se it on the Picture of plug "A".
Sorry about my English Language, i hope you understand what i try to explain to you.
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I think I'm understanding what CX-5 Norway is saying, together with information gleaned from the japanparts website which now lists the CX-5 paddle kit.
It appears there are THREE things we need for the CX-5: (1) the paddles; (2) the "kit" (which includes the new back, screws, the BNK8-66-4M2 harness, and a replacement steering wheel nut); and (3) the K015-V7-481 harness. You could also buy the items from (2) separately.
(Attaching images showing the japanparts part numbers.)
It appears there are THREE things we need for the CX-5: (1) the paddles; (2) the "kit" (which includes the new back, screws, the BNK8-66-4M2 harness, and a replacement steering wheel nut); and (3) the K015-V7-481 harness. You could also buy the items from (2) separately.
(Attaching images showing the japanparts part numbers.)
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SVShootingStar
Member
- :
- Mazda6 Touring
Are you saying no holes, or are they just in the wrong place?
I have part # GJS2-32-049 from OEM MazdaParts and the release holes are all where they should be.
Well, as far as my car is concerned, crisis over. I was able to remove the airbag and the replacement back plate. Unfortunately, not without totally mangling it. In order to remove it, I had to unscrew the paddles, remove those, Dremel some holes for access, then physically bend the back plate onto itself in order to give myself room to reach the release pins for the airbag.
I was also able to confirm that all wires were connected as they were supposed to be and all connectors were tight. I didnt bother to dig deeper on the electrical side as the airbag access is an issue for me.
Svshootingstar - yes there are access holes to remove an airbag, but they do not line up with the airbag release pins on the 16 CX-5. I'll post photos of why below.
Cx-5 Norway - yes all of the holes for the mounting screws for the paddles are already drilled and tapped into the steering wheel. So the paddles mount right up without any fuss. I also think the secondary harness is required, I did order it but I have not received it yet. The clock spring already has pins and wires for the empty slots which are filled with the pins and wires from the paddles, so that makes me believe there is already wiring between that and the main harness. Given this, I'm unsure what else needs to be connected?
If you compare the photo of this airbag, which is the 2016 CX5 airbag, with photos of the earlier version CX5 airbags, you will notice a few differences. The main difference is the connection to the car has two separate connectors, and the location of the airbag locking pins looks to be a bit different as well.
this is a photo of the clock spring (stock).
comparison photo of the two back plates. On the top is the standard plate, on the bottom is the replacement plate. If you look closely you can see the access holes for the airbag locking pins are in completely different locations, and different angles.
A comparison shot of the front side of the back plates. Again on the top is the OEM, and on the bottom is the replacement piece. You can see where I had to Dremel out parts of the replacement piece in order to make it fit around the structural portion of the steering wheel.
The big issue for me is the ability to remove the airbag with the replacement back in place. Until I can find a replacement back plate, that has both the mounting points for the paddles and the correct holes for airbag removal, I don't think I'm going to re-attempt to mount the paddles.
*edit* Looking at the designations on the two back plates, the '16 is stamped Kd-48 and the '15 Gjs2. I think we need a "KD" series back plate with the paddle shift mounts... CX3 maybe?
Also, look at the '15 back, right where the paddles mount is where the airbag pin release holes are on the '16 (upper holes). The bottom hole on the '16 is centered on the wheel and angled straight towards the driver. On the '15 the hole is offset to one side and angled straight up towards the roof of the car.
I think the only way to make this back work is to 1) grind away the inner plastic like i did to get it to even mount. 2) Drill new access holes for the airbag pins before installing the airbag.
...sent...
I was also able to confirm that all wires were connected as they were supposed to be and all connectors were tight. I didnt bother to dig deeper on the electrical side as the airbag access is an issue for me.
Svshootingstar - yes there are access holes to remove an airbag, but they do not line up with the airbag release pins on the 16 CX-5. I'll post photos of why below.
Cx-5 Norway - yes all of the holes for the mounting screws for the paddles are already drilled and tapped into the steering wheel. So the paddles mount right up without any fuss. I also think the secondary harness is required, I did order it but I have not received it yet. The clock spring already has pins and wires for the empty slots which are filled with the pins and wires from the paddles, so that makes me believe there is already wiring between that and the main harness. Given this, I'm unsure what else needs to be connected?
If you compare the photo of this airbag, which is the 2016 CX5 airbag, with photos of the earlier version CX5 airbags, you will notice a few differences. The main difference is the connection to the car has two separate connectors, and the location of the airbag locking pins looks to be a bit different as well.
The big issue for me is the ability to remove the airbag with the replacement back in place. Until I can find a replacement back plate, that has both the mounting points for the paddles and the correct holes for airbag removal, I don't think I'm going to re-attempt to mount the paddles.
*edit* Looking at the designations on the two back plates, the '16 is stamped Kd-48 and the '15 Gjs2. I think we need a "KD" series back plate with the paddle shift mounts... CX3 maybe?
Also, look at the '15 back, right where the paddles mount is where the airbag pin release holes are on the '16 (upper holes). The bottom hole on the '16 is centered on the wheel and angled straight towards the driver. On the '15 the hole is offset to one side and angled straight up towards the roof of the car.
I think the only way to make this back work is to 1) grind away the inner plastic like i did to get it to even mount. 2) Drill new access holes for the airbag pins before installing the airbag.
...sent...
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littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
This is becoming more complicated by the minute...
Hopefully the part#'s and problems become resolved but now I read that you have to ground something in order to make the paddle shifters work. Nobody mentioned that before...(thought)
The 2016's have a different design and that is what is throwing things off, I believe.
Hopefully the part#'s and problems become resolved but now I read that you have to ground something in order to make the paddle shifters work. Nobody mentioned that before...(thought)
The 2016's have a different design and that is what is throwing things off, I believe.
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littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
Paddle Shift on 2016 CX-5 GT
How did you get everything to work and line up on your 2016 ? (dunno)
And you have a Mazda 6, not a 2016 CX-5. It's becoming evident that there may be at least some differences.
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littlebear
Member
- :
- 2017 Mazda CX5
So the way it stands now is that the paddle shift mod will NOT work on 2016 CX5's
Not necessarily true. Srad600 does appear to have gotten a back plate that doesn't work with the '16, but there at least two other paddle-compatible backplate part numbers from Mazda, including the one they sell with their paddle kit. It remains to be seen whether any of those are direct replacements for the '16. Also, Srad600 doesn't have the second wiring harness yet, which Mazda states is required for the paddles to work on the CX-5. It remains to be seen whether they will work once Srad600 gets the second harness intstalled.
Maybe, maybe not. If you're looking for a fully-illustrated, plug-and-play step-by-step tutorial, come back in a few months. Meanwhile, the tinkerers will keep working on this.
