Hi,
Just to add to the general MPG discussion, I've been getting around 42.5 over the last several weeks, all local, no long trips, which I think is pretty reasonable.
And changing the subject (this probably covered before) - the satnav screen auto brightness feature. Is it me, or does the auto dim just not work properly? I find that in daylight with the screen normal brightness it will go to very dim (presumably night time setting) if the 'detector' thinks the ambient light levels too low . . . at which point it's virtually useless. If I tweak the knob to regain the brightness (not particularly easy when your driving), then when it DOES get dark the screen is far too bright! If I change the setting to manual not auto, same problem because you have to keep moving the knob for day or night - particularly annoying at this time of year. There doesn't seem to be enough control of the brightness, it's all or nothing.
I agree about the Sat-Nav screen display, there is no in-between, as you say above either full brilliance, or totally dull. There is a brightness/colour control in the settings but not really effective. What gets me is during the process of trimming the brightness down there seems to be something there that looks acceptable, however you cannot stay on that setting.
Poorly thought out I suspect.
Alex
But the point I'm coming to is this. I'll be fitting a new tyre with a larger diameter, i.e. because of the greater tread depth, than the tyre on the other side. Does not the TPMS work by detecting a difference in rotational speed of one tyre/wheel from the others, e.g. normally caused by reduced pressure? If so, won't the TPMS give me a continuous false warning?
I suspect you will get an erroneous signal, but the only way to find out is probably by having the one tyre, then suck-it-and-see. What would be nice will be if someone on here has actually experienced the effects (if any). If not you will have to be the guy that tells us all.
I did think for an instance of raising the pressure slightly on the opposite tyre, but that is dangerous and not to be advocated.
Best of luck, and hopefully somebody will give a definitive answer (unlike mine).
Alex
Yes, I'd wondered about fiddling with the pressures but thought not. A couple of questions on tyres; my Yokohamas are rated as 102V, which are quite difficult to find and considerably more expensive than the more readily available 102H (slightly lower speed rating). I wonder if it would make the slightest difference fitting the H tyre? And secondly in view of the difficulty of sourcing the Yokohama, has anyone got a suggestion for a good alternative? I might consider migrating to a more common tyre as they require changing.
Yes, I'd wondered about fiddling with the pressures but thought not. A couple of questions on tyres; my Yokohamas are rated as 102V, which are quite difficult to find and considerably more expensive than the more readily available 102H (slightly lower speed rating). I wonder if it would make the slightest difference fitting the H tyre? And secondly in view of the difficulty of sourcing the Yokohama, has anyone got a suggestion for a good alternative? I might consider migrating to a more common tyre as they require changing.
My tyre pressure monitoring system TPMS warning light came on day before yesterday just as I arrived in a car park (on our way to the cinema). Didn't delay then, but on returning to the car the rear offside was completely flat, aah! I managed to change to the spare (thank goodness I'd paid for a spacesaver), which incidentally was not easy - the jack operating tools are barely fit for purpose and awkward to use, particularly when it's dark and wet! Of course had I read up about the procedure beforehand . . .
Anyway, I'd had a puncture a year ago so took the wheel to the same specialist; in fact the previous puncture was near the tyre shoulder so needed a vulcanising repair. The guy took the tyre off, and I just couldn't believe it, the new puncture, caused by a 40 mm screw, was an inch away from the old one!! The chance of a 2nd puncture, on the same wheel, at the same location, must be very small. He shook his head and said sorry, he's not allowed to do a repair where there is an existing patch.
So I've had to discard a tyre with 6 mm of tread, and am now looking for a new Yokohama Geolandar G98 17". I went through all this a year ago before I found out my tyre was repairable - all in an earlier thread - and remember Mazda being insistant that they wouldn't recommend ANY other tyre except the factory fitted one, for which they would charge me 250. I'm finding it difficult to find a replacement with the exact specification, but will continue the search tomorrow.
But the point I'm coming to is this. I'll be fitting a new tyre with a larger diameter, i.e. because of the greater tread depth, than the tyre on the other side. Does not the TPMS work by detecting a difference in rotational speed of one tyre/wheel from the others, e.g. normally caused by reduced pressure? If so, won't the TPMS give me a continuous false warning?
I have 2 of these (on rear) .....
Falken Ziex ZE-914 Ecorun 225/65 R17 V (102)
248 for two, they're ok.
I have to say I've found the jack ok.
I've had all four wheels off twice while I've had the car and yes it takes some torque to raise the car but it is fit for purpose, I use a trolley jack for safety once it up. And I always chock all wheels.