How many Brits? Fancy a cuppa?

Yes I had all season tyres on my two xtrails, never had a problem in 9 years using Dunlop sp20 tyres.
 
I have a problem with rainwater not draining away at the base of the windscreen on the nearside.
The outermost drain hole runs freely but the inner one, which is fractionally lower, blocks up every week or two and "ponds".
I gently prod it clear with an awl but it worries me that there seems to be some resistance to this and I can't see where it drains to.
Has anybody any ideas on this?
Cheers
 
Hi,
Just to add to the general MPG discussion, I've been getting around 42.5 over the last several weeks, all local, no long trips, which I think is pretty reasonable.

And changing the subject (this probably covered before) - the satnav screen auto brightness feature. Is it me, or does the auto dim just not work properly? I find that in daylight with the screen normal brightness it will go to very dim (presumably night time setting) if the 'detector' thinks the ambient light levels too low . . . at which point it's virtually useless. If I tweak the knob to regain the brightness (not particularly easy when your driving), then when it DOES get dark the screen is far too bright! If I change the setting to manual not auto, same problem because you have to keep moving the knob for day or night - particularly annoying at this time of year. There doesn't seem to be enough control of the brightness, it's all or nothing.
 
Hi,
Just to add to the general MPG discussion, I've been getting around 42.5 over the last several weeks, all local, no long trips, which I think is pretty reasonable.

And changing the subject (this probably covered before) - the satnav screen auto brightness feature. Is it me, or does the auto dim just not work properly? I find that in daylight with the screen normal brightness it will go to very dim (presumably night time setting) if the 'detector' thinks the ambient light levels too low . . . at which point it's virtually useless. If I tweak the knob to regain the brightness (not particularly easy when your driving), then when it DOES get dark the screen is far too bright! If I change the setting to manual not auto, same problem because you have to keep moving the knob for day or night - particularly annoying at this time of year. There doesn't seem to be enough control of the brightness, it's all or nothing.

I agree about the Sat-Nav screen display, there is no in-between, as you say above either full brilliance, or totally dull. There is a brightness/colour control in the settings but not really effective. What gets me is during the process of trimming the brightness down there seems to be something there that looks acceptable, however you cannot stay on that setting.

Poorly thought out I suspect.

Alex
 
Funny that I parked up last night with exactly 42.5 on the computer, dropped from 42.9mpg. But was using the power more.
 
So, we've got crack in the windscreen again, just to the left of the rear view mirror (looking from the inside) extending from the top edge of the screen down and slightly across for around 8 inches. In the middle of the crack is what I assume is the cause - a very small stone chip.

This is the second time the windscreen has needed replacing on this car, after 30 years of never having a windscreen replaced across various cars. Are the windscreens inherently weak, or is it the shape of the car, or are we just really unlucky?
 
I have a small chip on mine but no crack, the chips been there a while, I don't think the screens are particularly weak.

My last screen I had changed was on a A4 around 2001, again that chipped but didn't crack, problem was the chip was deep and at eye level.

I bought a HTC desire 510 today and have received and sent text messages with it, so time will tell if the phone continues to work, some reports say the function works for a couple of weeks then stops, so I'll update for those interested in a few week.
 
I agree about the Sat-Nav screen display, there is no in-between, as you say above either full brilliance, or totally dull. There is a brightness/colour control in the settings but not really effective. What gets me is during the process of trimming the brightness down there seems to be something there that looks acceptable, however you cannot stay on that setting.

Poorly thought out I suspect.

Alex

I've had the same thoughts and ended up changing the colour scheme on the night-time setting. Can't remember the name of it at the mo but its one that results in built-up areas being a deep red colour and the roads turn white. Seems to be quite effective - not too bright at night.
 
New Brit calling in for a cuppa.
Waiting for new Auto 175ps Diesel sport AWD Nav in Silver. Been quoted a disgusting 14 days for delivery(2thumbs) so looking forward to the new arrival.
 
My tyre pressure monitoring system TPMS warning light came on day before yesterday just as I arrived in a car park (on our way to the cinema). Didn't delay then, but on returning to the car the rear offside was completely flat, aah! I managed to change to the spare (thank goodness I'd paid for a spacesaver), which incidentally was not easy - the jack operating tools are barely fit for purpose and awkward to use, particularly when it's dark and wet! Of course had I read up about the procedure beforehand . . .

Anyway, I'd had a puncture a year ago so took the wheel to the same specialist; in fact the previous puncture was near the tyre shoulder so needed a vulcanising repair. The guy took the tyre off, and I just couldn't believe it, the new puncture, caused by a 40 mm screw, was an inch away from the old one!! The chance of a 2nd puncture, on the same wheel, at the same location, must be very small. He shook his head and said sorry, he's not allowed to do a repair where there is an existing patch.

So I've had to discard a tyre with 6 mm of tread, and am now looking for a new Yokohama Geolandar G98 17". I went through all this a year ago before I found out my tyre was repairable - all in an earlier thread - and remember Mazda being insistant that they wouldn't recommend ANY other tyre except the factory fitted one, for which they would charge me 250. I'm finding it difficult to find a replacement with the exact specification, but will continue the search tomorrow.

But the point I'm coming to is this. I'll be fitting a new tyre with a larger diameter, i.e. because of the greater tread depth, than the tyre on the other side. Does not the TPMS work by detecting a difference in rotational speed of one tyre/wheel from the others, e.g. normally caused by reduced pressure? If so, won't the TPMS give me a continuous false warning?
 
But the point I'm coming to is this. I'll be fitting a new tyre with a larger diameter, i.e. because of the greater tread depth, than the tyre on the other side. Does not the TPMS work by detecting a difference in rotational speed of one tyre/wheel from the others, e.g. normally caused by reduced pressure? If so, won't the TPMS give me a continuous false warning?

I suspect you will get an erroneous signal, but the only way to find out is probably by having the one tyre, then suck-it-and-see. What would be nice will be if someone on here has actually experienced the effects (if any). If not you will have to be the guy that tells us all.

I did think for an instance of raising the pressure slightly on the opposite tyre, but that is dangerous and not to be advocated.

Best of luck, and hopefully somebody will give a definitive answer (unlike mine).

Alex
 
Anyone updated Tom Tom recently? I tried to last night but the latest update is too big for the SD card supplied by Mazda. After faffing about trying to free up space I gave up. I'm going to put the card back in the car later and see if it fires up but it looks like I'll have to get a bigger card to accommodate thee updates.

Edit: Well the card went back into the card and it installed some updates at least. Latest version is showing up as installed but I've had to lose various voices and there are some files which have not been updated (probably POIs)

I'll get myself a bigger card in the week and try again for a proper update.
 
Last edited:
Mine came with a 8MB card, but when it was servced 6 months ago it was changed for a 4MB because lots had problems with the 8 !!?
 
I suspect you will get an erroneous signal, but the only way to find out is probably by having the one tyre, then suck-it-and-see. What would be nice will be if someone on here has actually experienced the effects (if any). If not you will have to be the guy that tells us all.

I did think for an instance of raising the pressure slightly on the opposite tyre, but that is dangerous and not to be advocated.

Best of luck, and hopefully somebody will give a definitive answer (unlike mine).

Alex

Yes, I'd wondered about fiddling with the pressures but thought not. A couple of questions on tyres; my Yokohamas are rated as 102V, which are quite difficult to find and considerably more expensive than the more readily available 102H (slightly lower speed rating). I wonder if it would make the slightest difference fitting the H tyre? And secondly in view of the difficulty of sourcing the Yokohama, has anyone got a suggestion for a good alternative? I might consider migrating to a more common tyre as they require changing.
 
Yes, I'd wondered about fiddling with the pressures but thought not. A couple of questions on tyres; my Yokohamas are rated as 102V, which are quite difficult to find and considerably more expensive than the more readily available 102H (slightly lower speed rating). I wonder if it would make the slightest difference fitting the H tyre? And secondly in view of the difficulty of sourcing the Yokohama, has anyone got a suggestion for a good alternative? I might consider migrating to a more common tyre as they require changing.

Good point, so I carried out a bit of research...

Take a look at the link to Kwik-Fit.com website THE WRITING ON THE WALL

Thanks for the tip.

Alex
 
Yes, I'd wondered about fiddling with the pressures but thought not. A couple of questions on tyres; my Yokohamas are rated as 102V, which are quite difficult to find and considerably more expensive than the more readily available 102H (slightly lower speed rating). I wonder if it would make the slightest difference fitting the H tyre? And secondly in view of the difficulty of sourcing the Yokohama, has anyone got a suggestion for a good alternative? I might consider migrating to a more common tyre as they require changing.

I have 2 of these (on rear) .....


Falken Ziex ZE-914 Ecorun 225/65 R17 V (102)

248 for two, they're ok.
 
All you need to do is reinitialise the tyres when cold, the button is on the bank of six buttons to the rhs of the steering wheel.
Follow the instructions in the manual.

I had the light come up after pumping up the rear tyres ready for towing, but forgot to reinitialise, light went out after I did, from memory all I did was hold the button down for a few seconds.

My tyre pressure monitoring system TPMS warning light came on day before yesterday just as I arrived in a car park (on our way to the cinema). Didn't delay then, but on returning to the car the rear offside was completely flat, aah! I managed to change to the spare (thank goodness I'd paid for a spacesaver), which incidentally was not easy - the jack operating tools are barely fit for purpose and awkward to use, particularly when it's dark and wet! Of course had I read up about the procedure beforehand . . .

Anyway, I'd had a puncture a year ago so took the wheel to the same specialist; in fact the previous puncture was near the tyre shoulder so needed a vulcanising repair. The guy took the tyre off, and I just couldn't believe it, the new puncture, caused by a 40 mm screw, was an inch away from the old one!! The chance of a 2nd puncture, on the same wheel, at the same location, must be very small. He shook his head and said sorry, he's not allowed to do a repair where there is an existing patch.

So I've had to discard a tyre with 6 mm of tread, and am now looking for a new Yokohama Geolandar G98 17". I went through all this a year ago before I found out my tyre was repairable - all in an earlier thread - and remember Mazda being insistant that they wouldn't recommend ANY other tyre except the factory fitted one, for which they would charge me 250. I'm finding it difficult to find a replacement with the exact specification, but will continue the search tomorrow.

But the point I'm coming to is this. I'll be fitting a new tyre with a larger diameter, i.e. because of the greater tread depth, than the tyre on the other side. Does not the TPMS work by detecting a difference in rotational speed of one tyre/wheel from the others, e.g. normally caused by reduced pressure? If so, won't the TPMS give me a continuous false warning?
 
I have 2 of these (on rear) .....


Falken Ziex ZE-914 Ecorun 225/65 R17 V (102)

248 for two, they're ok.

Thanks, having spent far too long trying to track down the original Yokohama G98s, I'm going with your suggestion! I found the best price I could get for these tyres was with Halfords Autocentre and have bought 2 tyres (fitted, balanced, etc) for 207. Fitting is tomorrow, hope there will be no problems.
My next job is to locate a scissor jack with integrated handle, to replace the Mazda not-very-good kit.


Xtrailman.

Thank you; after I'd made the post I RTM, and this time found the information in 4-125, not 4-58 where I'd been looking originally!
 
I have to say I've found the jack ok.
I've had all four wheels off twice while I've had the car and yes it takes some torque to raise the car but it is fit for purpose, I use a trolley jack for safety once it up. And I always chock all wheels.
 
I have to say I've found the jack ok.
I've had all four wheels off twice while I've had the car and yes it takes some torque to raise the car but it is fit for purpose, I use a trolley jack for safety once it up. And I always chock all wheels.

Except when you're in a city car park! Joking apart, I suppose I was used to the previous jack and handle I had with my Golf, which IMO was far superior. Anyway, I've had my ration of punctures, so I can rest easy!!
 
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