New gt3071r struggling to build boost. Low on power. :(. I'm very confused

[CHIQLES]

dam was it made of tinfoil lol

 

[CHIQLES]

any update?

 

[tweety2300]

dam was it made of tinfoil lol

It was a 3 layer gasket, I replaced it with a felpro which has a warranty but the last about a month or 2 before failing. I have a garret t2 gasket for my new setup just replaced it again and probly won't **** with it again till i put my new turbo and manifold on

I tried that make your own gasket crap napa has and it lasted about 3 hard runs.

 

[ap123]

So a little update. I've done a few pulls and it feels a little more torquey at low end. Very small difference though. Boost pressure seams to climb a bit faster but still quite late in the revs (about 5k) but like a few of you guys suggested its probably just a tune issue. I wanna just re check all the screws are tight tomorrow and put the left over sea foam through it to verify the new gasket is working properly. I haven't unplugged the WGA line to see how it reacts I might do that tomorrow as well.

The old gasket I had in there was a proper ATP turbo gasket. In comparison the SCE is twice the thickness and has a much larger crush area.

 

[CHIQLES]

we dont have the same turbo but I thought I had good torque with my setup. Since this post started and another for overboosting I thought I would Double check things and experiment. I had a cheapo ebay mbc which did not work for nothing but they send you a restricted T. Which i used by itself.

My torque improved quite a bit.
Why it works- while there is a side open to the open air, it is restricted and does not leak that much for it to actually effect anything but the waste gate opening. It delays how fast the wastegate opens and keeps wategate creep down. im still running 9psi not over boosting and vac is at -21/-22 hg.

 

[CHIQLES]

question how big is your intercooler and what size intercooler pipes do you have?

 

[ap123]

My intercooler piping is 2.5, it's a z line mishimoto intercooler.

I checked the screws this morning, one was backed out and the others where not very tight. I retighten drove for 20 minutes came back and again they need to be retighten. Went out again came back and again they didn't feel that tight not as bad as the before but still, im putting all my weight into tightening these screws. Wtf looks like I'm going to have to take the turbo out again and change the hardware too.

 

[CHIQLES]

that sucks. I used locking copper nuts. They are a one time use Kinda deal but they hold very well. Napa may carry them.

 

[JamesCH]

Use Nord lockwashers.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=nne0bi

I've literally never had a single one come loose on me, and neither has anyone I've ever know who uses them. Just follow the installation instructions properly and you'll be good to go. They don't 'wear out' like most (every?) thread-locking nuts will.

 

[tweety2300]

U had that issue as well. Go with stage 8 they will never come loose I paid $20 for 4 but it was well worth it

 

[ap123]

Use Nord lockwashers.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=nne0bi

I've literally never had a single one come loose on me, and neither has anyone I've ever know who uses them. Just follow the installation instructions properly and you'll be good to go. They don't 'wear out' like most (every?) thread-locking nuts will.

JamesCH what thickness and material do you recommend to get? Im probably going to get a set of these washers and also get a set of copper locking nuts. So i would need 8 total washers sets. What would you recommend?

Like right now i have ARP bolts, some no name washers, held by grade 8 serrated nuts. The nut seams to work well seeing that once it gets tight i don't even have to hold it with a wretch to tighten the screw. It grips the turbo housing quite well. Im assuming the screw is backing off the nut with the vibration.

I've looked at the stage 8 before but my manifold isnt threaded so i kinda feel like it defeats the purpose if the nut on the end of the bolt can still just spin off. Im only having issues with turbo to manifold. Ive got the arp set for my head to manifold, i haven't had an issue there since i up graded.

 

[tweety2300]

The locking stage 8 has little fasteners that if the do back out it will only go till it hits something

 

[JamesCH]

I use the zinc-plated steel NORD-LOCK washers. I use them with normal bolts and nuts, just regular hex head bolts and plain nuts. Nothing special needed otherwise, and completely forget any other washers. I use 10.9 grade metric bolts generally, don't get unrated bolts, you have no idea how strong they'll be. Of course it's always a good idea to use high-temperature anti-seize. If you use anti-seize drop your torque spec by 35% due to the threads being lubricated.

I source metric hardware from BelMetric: https://www.belmetric.com/ I generally used JIS 10.9 small-wrench bolts, but the normal hex 10.9 bolts are good too.

Stage 8 looks sexy and all, but stage 8 bolts are 5x the price of NORD-LOCK washers, and the nuts are 4x as expensive. You need to deal with those dumb tabs and c-clips. Not that they don't work, they work just fine I'm sure, but for much less cost and hassle NORD-LOCKS have a 100% track record in my experience.

Edit: here is the NORD-LOCK application guide: http://www.nord-lock.com/products/wedge-locking/washers/joint-guide/

 

[ap123]

Thanks for the links JamesCH, nordlock washers and copper locking nuts are ordered. Its a bit of over kill but better safe then sorry. According to Nord Lock site the serrated nuts might be the issue, seams like they aren't as good under vibration as i thought.

 

[JamesCH]

Thanks for the links JamesCH, nordlock washers and copper locking nuts are ordered. Its a bit of over kill but better safe then sorry. According to Nord Lock site the serrated nuts might be the issue, seams like they aren't as good under vibration as i thought.

You're welcome, happy to help.

A lot of stuff is really bad under heavy vibration load. Quite frequently most people and/or companies get it wrong, which is disappointing.

Three very interesting articles I read when trying to figure out why my turbo bolts were loosening and how I could stop it.

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/helicalspringwashers.htm

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm

 

[ap123]

so little update.
I will be taking out the gaskets and changing them once again this friday. Even though ive been checking them and they havent backed out again and today while getting onto the free way it gave me 10PSI with the WGA connected !! yay lol. But in my experience once they back out the gasket is damaged so better safe then sorry. Also since the haltech wiring is done i wanna make sure an exhaust leak isnt going to be messing with my afr reading from the wideband

So this is my homework for this friday and weekend, I will also be tapping a new coolant temp sensor and taking out the MAF and replacing it with an air temp sensor for the haltech. Wish me luck, Brian (MP5T) has been giving me some guidance.