I don't see myself ever plastidipping anything. Maybe my race wheels, but even that is iffy for me. I just can't see spending $300-$500 on a temporary paint job. I would rather do al the prep work and have the whole car sanded down to 320 or 400 and take it to macco. The cheap paint jobs at macco are because they don't prep the surface and you are basically just paying them to spray the paint.
The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working
- Thread starter THE Phen
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Plasti-dipping a car? Dumb. Plasti-dipping a part here and there? Pretty good idea. The driver's side corner light (passenger side is an air intake) on my Miata is plasti-dipped, and if you just want to black something out with minimal fuss, it's hard to beat.
That might be an option, depending on how bad the rust is, but likely, it's spread to the outside of the lip too, so cutting the lip off won't get rid of it all.
That's probably all you can do for the hood. If I remember right when Jake bought it, the hood was pretty bad, and I imagine those hoods are quite the pretty penny, so replacement is probably out of the picture. lulz
That was my suggestion to him. lol I could help him prep the car, in a weekend, and he could have a much MUCH more durable, legit paint job, for not much more.
The problem is the rust. At least with the plastidip, he can make continuous repairs as it comes back. Spending $1000 on a paint job, only to see rust bubbles w/in a year leaves you sick to your stomach! Much more expensive repair.
This.
All my emblems are dipped, and I'm always extra cautious when washing around them, because the coating feels like it's just going to get peeled off if I rub too hard. I couldn't imagine the care process needed to wash an entire car that's been dipped?
Although, it IS a pretty popular trend, and I've read/heard very little about people having to re-dip their cars constantly due to this situation.
It's a bit more flexible, so it doesn't chip nearly as easily. If you do your prep work, it shouldn't peel until you're ready for it to.
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Yeah, I think a lot of cats are missing the whole reason I'm going to Plastidip my car, to fix the rust and the front bumper needs paint badly.
I can repair the rust (temporarily) then Plastidip the car. When the rust comes back in a year or two, repair it again and repaint the section, or peel the whole car and re-dip the whole car again.
It's not ideal and of course I would like a shiny, rust free car, but I've got the P5 for that purpose.
But I understand a lot is in the prep work and come on, you guys know how anal I am and I've got nothing but time. When it warms up I'll dedicate a weekend and do it. And hopefully some of you will be pleasantly surprised. If not, I don't really care regardless. lulz.
I just can't imagine spending $1200 on a bad Maaco paint job just to see rust bubble through again in a year. Gotta love Ohio though...
I can repair the rust (temporarily) then Plastidip the car. When the rust comes back in a year or two, repair it again and repaint the section, or peel the whole car and re-dip the whole car again.
It's not ideal and of course I would like a shiny, rust free car, but I've got the P5 for that purpose.
But I understand a lot is in the prep work and come on, you guys know how anal I am and I've got nothing but time. When it warms up I'll dedicate a weekend and do it. And hopefully some of you will be pleasantly surprised. If not, I don't really care regardless. lulz.
I just can't imagine spending $1200 on a bad Maaco paint job just to see rust bubble through again in a year. Gotta love Ohio though...
Plastidip sticks pretty good even if you don't prep the surface reeeeaaalllly good, lol. The only problem I've ever had with emblems was on the 2, the very edge of the "D" in demio just peeled off a little. I probably didn't get enough coats on that corner. But I plastidipped the front lip on the miata and it took a ton of abuse. It scraped off where it hit the ground, but the "tear" doesn't spread, even when washed.
It's pretty damn durable.
It's pretty damn durable.
It being temporary is the point. If it chips or peels, repspray that section. Don't like the color or the finish? Peel it off and repsray it. Perfect for a track car where it's only a matter of time before you paint job is ruined. Regarding Maaco you can do all that work and they'll still get overspray all over your wheels, exhaust, suspensiobn, windows, etc. I had them spray an old truck of mine and it sure what fun breaking all those painted-over nuts and bolts loose.
Fiji Mazda3
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If you cut out all the affected areas and do a thorough job of prepping the area afterward, you have a very good shot at stopping it.
I'm a big believer in Fluid Film. I've only been using it for about a year, but from all the stuff i've seen online about, it seems to be a very penetrator & protector from rust & the elements. I woulda sprayed my cars with it, if i hadn't gotten them Ziebart'd.
This.
Therein lies the problem though, making sure you 100% get rid of every inch of contaminated metal. Otherwise, it will just spread once again. That can be quite a costly task though, and often, if the car is rusting that bad, it's not worth it to repair the "right way". See my F-150 repair thread for visual references. lol
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123796408-Team-Ohio-rust-repair!-(56K-die)
You'll never get rid of all that rust.....never. I'd be willing to bet it's all come back by now too, didn't realize that was almost 2 years ago!
hmmm. I'm not sure, it's pretty much like rubber so it may just make little "pills" from where it pulls up the rubber a little. Never tried.
That is how my rocker panel is. I didn't know it was rusted untilI took off the side skirts and saw a thick wall of bondo and underneath a s*** tone of rust. I'm kinda at a stand still with the sides of the car right now.
Iron (Fe) + air (oxygen, O2) = rust (FeO2) so if the affected metal is still exposed to air it will continue to rust. If you can remove as much rust as possible and prevent the affected surface from being exposed you'll prevent the rust from spreading. I've had pretty good results but taking a wire wheel on an angle grinder to the affected surfaces and then painting with several layers (primer + paint + clear). I'm currently going through this process on a heavily rusted break booster so hopefully it holds up.
