What have you done to your MSP today?

na you couldn't special order them. the dealer ships were sent them with no choice of what option's or color they got because of how limited they were. i tried to get a black cherry sport when i was buying mine but no one had one.
 
the NC one is a gt you can see it has the knob in the ignition indicating it has a smart key setup. Only the gt's came with smart keys.
 
The BMW dealership here, will switch out s*** from car to car in the service department if you are buying the car from them. New or used, it doesn't matter. Say that car is what you want, but you don't like the seats, tell them and BAM, they'll get switched.
 
the NC one is a gt you can see it has the knob in the ignition indicating it has a smart key setup. Only the gt's came with smart keys.

i know i was just saying because its avertised as a sport.

The BMW dealership here, will switch out s*** from car to car in the service department if you are buying the car from them. New or used, it doesn't matter. Say that car is what you want, but you don't like the seats, tell them and BAM, they'll get switched.

yeah im sure its possible to do anything with them. i just knew it was a gt and saw it was advertised as a sport thought it was funny. i worked for mazda at the time that the speeds were out and never saw them swapped out. maybe bmw will do that but ive been at mazda n honda dealerships for over 5 years. i haven't seen them swap anything but rim's from different car's. im sure if your paying 60k for a car they will do a lot more than paying 20k for a car. lol
 
The BMW dealership here, will switch out s*** from car to car in the service department if you are buying the car from them. New or used, it doesn't matter. Say that car is what you want, but you don't like the seats, tell them and BAM, they'll get switched.

Well considering the price difference between mazda and bmw, they may be less accomodating.. a bmw sale means thousands in profit either way so a few seats is no big deal.
 
Its pretty straight forward wiring in some connectors to make a standalone plug-n-play harness beyond just the typical install. I swap injectors, swap a couple plugs and turn down the boost controller and put about 50 granny miles on her...

I messed with correcting my cold start issues way back when I installed my Hiboost kit with the Haltech that came barely halfass tuned on stock injectors and never had to touch them again...

I have had a Microtech LT10s for a while that I found cheap to try to help with my idle stability with the 730cc injectors going to sequential planning to install and the harness is halfway there... But now I'm thinking Haltech 1000 or maybe MS. With all the wiring and tuning I'll be doing and all the time and money I've already spent... I'd rather put in something more updated and capable ;)


I don't have it where Im at either. I would like to have 100% control over all aspects of tuning but don't want to fail an inspection. So, Im debating between the parallel setup. But at the same time, I like what Brianmp5t did for his water pump. One less thing the engine has to turn..
 
I never took my Craigslist ad down and I started getting emails from someone in Kentucky that wants to come down and look at it this weekend... Hmm...
 
I don't have it where Im at either. I would like to have 100% control over all aspects of tuning but don't want to fail an inspection. So, Im debating between the parallel setup. But at the same time, I like what Brianmp5t did for his water pump. One less thing the engine has to turn..

Have you priced that water pump? Jesus....

also there's nothing wrong with running parallel. That's how Sam's plug and play kits work
 
Cold starts = not fun

Just FYI

I can attest to this. Even in the summertime, an initial start of the MSM is a bit tricky sometimes. Once it's started (usually takes 3-4 crank cycles), you MUST let it warm up a bit or it will stall as soon as you let the clutch out. I've been fiddling with my cold start enrichment quite a bit and got it to a point where I'm able to drive before it gets to full operating temperature, but it isn't able to adjust like an OEM ECU does. At least on my Hydra, the idle circuit is fixed. Other than the cold start enrichment, it has no way of adjusting if it needs to. Example: Below 50 degrees F, my AFR at idle is around 10.5:1. I've gotten it to run decently around 11.7:1, but anything less than that and the car won't start.
 
2002-mazda-miata-mx-5
 
bouta drive it for the first time since nov 21st!

Mine has been parked since the 19th... That's how over the car I am. It will, realistically, take me 2 hours to replace the water pump, but I'm just over it.
 
My buddy just told me to race him... He's got a 680whp Mustang...
 
Found out last night my R rear wheel bearing is ******. The car was backed into a couple months ago and a shop called Lamb's automotive (which is a ****** JOKE of a shop) managed to **** my car up which pisses me the hell off because I don't let ANYONE touch my car for this EXACT reason. All they did was replace the knuckle and hub/bearing assembly and re-align the car. They used an impact to ram the lug nuts on and overtorque them and it mushroomed the aluminum on the wheel, the lower endlink nut was left loose and the car clunked over bumps, they lost the clips for the carpet in the trunk and broke all 5 clips for the rear trim panel by yanking on it instead of taking 30 seconds to remove the damn clips, there is a mismatched nut on the knuckle, they broke the bolt off for the ABS sensor wire and threw away the tie down, they charged the insurance company for a new strut that was never put on the car and on top of it all the bulls*** chinese MasterPro wheel bearing has now failed after not even 1 month of use! And the suspension work wasn't even necessary the car that hit me barely scratched the paint but the shop screwed over the insurance company and tacked on $1k of unnecessary parts and labor.
 
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Ahhhhhhh I'm pissed that this turbo isn't mating up with the down pipe or gasket correctly. One bolt is slightly off.
 

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