What have you done to your MSP today?

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Been looking around at local junkyards for used replacement engines and found one from a 2001 626 with 106k miles on it for $650. I'm assuming it's pretty much a direct fit since they're both FSDE engines?
 
Been looking around at local junkyards for used replacement engines and found one from a 2001 626 with 106k miles on it for $650. I'm assuming it's pretty much a direct fit since they're both FSDE engines?

Yeah, pretty much. The MBSP will need to be swapped or the oil pan tapped for the oil return. And the intake manifold will need to be swapped or you can use the 626 manifold. I've got an 02 626 motor in mine with a tapped oil pan and an MSP manifold.
 
Yeah, pretty much. The MBSP will need to be swapped or the oil pan tapped for the oil return. And the intake manifold will need to be swapped or you can use the 626 manifold. I've got an 02 626 motor in mine with a tapped oil pan and an MSP manifold.

Yeah, I would more than likely use the 626 manifold as I have heard it performs much better than the stock MSP intake manifold. Do you think it would be worth the money to go forged or just remain stock? The body of my MSP has about 105k miles on it, so a little less than the 626 motor.
 
Right, I just didn't know if there's a huge difference in price when comparing just the replacement of the motor to replacement and going forged.

My forged build cost me about $1500, but I have a lot of advantages, plus I kept my eye out for good priced items and my base block cost me a whole $127. That and I did all the work myslef other than the free machine work.
 
My forged build cost me about $1500, but I have a lot of advantages, plus I kept my eye out for good priced items and my base block cost me a whole $127. That and I did all the work myslef other than the free machine work.

Yeah, I have a buddy that had his MSP engine forged for about $2500 which is a lot of freaking money for being a broke college student. Haha!
 
yea i have the same one's on my car apparently they don't start to really break in till the 500-1000 mile mark. in other news i just ordered some tech flex.
 
so, I was driving my car and all of a sudden, the car jerks and my temp gauge spikes up to the H and I lose my speedometer. Couldn't speed up or anything. I already knew it was a fuse because I had a similar incident with an ECU fuse and my o2 sensor a while back. So, I coast off into an empty parking lot and started looking at fuses. Found out I blew the 30 amp fuse for the ECU. Started looking for the culprit and it was my EGR hose. It came off and burned two wires a little bit. I started looking around and within walking distance(about 2 minutes) is a Carquest auto parts store. Walk up there and realize I didn't have my wallet, so I go back to the car irritated. I opened my glove box and started looking through spare fuses knowing I didn't have that 30 amp and found a crisp 5 bucks sitting in the glove box. How cool is that? I forget my wallet at home which of course has my debit card. I find 5 bucks in my car and also break down within walking distance of an auto parts store. 5 bucks and 6-7 minutes later, Im back on the road.
 
nice i melted my egr wires a few years back when i originally installed my 505 mani. I had to order my fuses now i have a bunch of spares that i keep in the car for when weird stuff like that happens.
 
If it's your daily driver and you don't have the funds, do that...

BUT FIRST MAKE SURE TO VERIFY THE PROBLEM!!!

I'm dropping my car off at a local shop tonight to see if they can diagnose the problem before I decide anything. I just hope it doesn't blow up or something on my way even though it's only a 4 or 5 mile drive.
 
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