how to make quiet power?

[spicy yellow]

Folks, I'm a newbie planning on all the usual bolt-on mods only. I want to keep the car quiet and neighbour friendly in the mornings while getting most (90%) of the power gains of my mods. Which combination of mods would best achieve this goal? Here's some specific considerations I've thought about:

- exhaust - I can go turbo back or cat back or downpipe only. I also heard some guys go downpipe + midsection but keep the stock Racing Beat muffler and tailpipe. I can go 60mm (2-3/8")or 80mm (3-1/8") diameter on the above. I already know I will be going with a free flow resonator and cat because I want to keep the air clean. BTW, can anyone tell me what is the stock pipe internal diameter and whether the stock muffler is a through flow design?

- intercooler - I don't suppose front or side mount makes any difference in noise?

- air intake - I would rather keep the stock airbox than change to a RAI because of less noise, less effort to change filters, and minimal power gains (?). But I might need to go with a RAI because the IC piping I am looking at would interfere with the stock box location. Question: how much more noisy will the RAI be compared to the stock box? Will a cold air box like the one shown on the link below reduce the noise of a RAI, and by how much compared to the stock box?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123785046-Gauging-Interest-Cold-Air-Box

So let me know what package would best suit my goals. Feel free to advise on anything else I did not mention. Thx.

 

[spicy yellow]

No one? OK, if I ask a different way, maybe someone will answer .....
I plan on bolt-on mods only.

- will I benefit from a 3" exhaust or will 2.4" pretty much max out all the power I can get?
- is the 2.4" exhaust any bigger than stock? if no, why are vendors selling it?
- which exhaust combo has a good power/noise ratio if I want to keep my MSP on the quiet side? - a) turbo back, b) cat back, c) upgrade turbo to axle then connect to stock muffler and tailpipe
- does a RAI add much noise? if yes, how much does a cold air box reduce the noise?
- does anyone make a disposable CAI/RAI filter cones? yeah, I'm lazy.


Thanks guys.

 

[float_6969]

-3" isn't needed for any power the stock turbo can make.
-I don't know what size the stock exhaust is, mine had been replaced when I bought the car.
-The most restrictive part of the exhaust is probably the stock S and J pipes, then the cats, then the cat-back
-If you keep the stock cat-back exhaust, but upgrade the cats, J and S pipe's, you shouldn't get much more noise, but gain some power.
-Yes. I don't know, I have a CAI and if you're worried about noise, stock is the only way to go. I will say that if you fix the turkey, the Injen CAI isn't all that loud.
-Any disposable air filter that comes in the same diameter as your CAI/RAI piping will work. I think most of them are 3" diameter pipe.

 

[clement_ghost]

I'm on my phone... But I'll post you something later about quiet power.

 

[dannythall]

It wouldn't hurt to do a little research before posting something like this.

Having said that I guess it depends on what kind of power you expect to make "quietly". Keep in mind this isn't a v8 with headers, and most civics sound loud due to the fart cans on them.

It would also be good to keep in mind the mod path for these cars. An SRI is not difficult in the least to remove/clean. I don't understand why you'd go turbo back exhaust without upgrading intake. The only time you'll really hear it is if you're accelerating hard. Not to mention an upgraded downpipe requires fuel pump internals, and as always any mods (especially downpipe/turbo back) require a good tune to run safely. And no, upgrading your inter cooler will not increase noise, it keeps BATs low.

Decide how much power you need first and go from there and research.

 

[spicy yellow]

thanks for all the answers guys. I did search the forum for about 2-3 hours before posting - figured that was fair.

Since posting I came across another post that said the stock exhaust is 2.25", so I can't understand why Corksport changed their design from a 2.5" (a while ago) to a 60mm=2.36" (current offering). The latter seems to be a marginal gain.

Float - your answers about the S and J pipes, and about the 3" exhaust were exactly what I needed to hear. thx. BTW, nice job on your liquid IC post.

Clement - I look forward to your comments.

Danny - I'd like to get the same level of "pull" and acceleration as a stock MS3 out of my MSP. The MSP being a lighter car, I figure 220whp is comparable to a stock MS3 at 240hp at the crank? That 220whp happens to fit nicely within the safe range of what bolt-ons can put out, right? yes I'm afraid of the Honda fart can sound - I used to have a CRX and was going to do the B16 swap. I changed my mind and sold the package and upgraded to the MSP, partly because of that sound and that whole fast&furious thing. Nothing against the Honda guys - just not for me. however, I would like to get that power/weight ratio as the CRX w b16 swap and with the CRX handling out of the MSP. Then I'd have 2 extra seats to boot.

I hesitate to go SRI for 3 reasons:
a) lazy to do the filter clean, though if I can get disposable, I'd be cool with that
b) I thought it would be really loud. Memories of my high school buddy with a V8 and the big diameter air filter on the carburaters. He'd flip the big dish cover over the air cleaner to make it sound more powerful - too loud for me. If the SRI gets loud only during heavy accel such as on a highway or freeway ramp, then I'm totally cool with the noise.
c) I thought the power increase is pathetically small - just a gimicky show piece. if it has a real function beyond the stock, then I'd seriously consider it. Tell me what you think about this - I almost want to be convinced to install an SRI now with the way you are talking.

I had no idea a downpipe/turboback requires fuel pump internals. Glad you told me. Now I gotta research what that involves.

Yes I always planned on getting a SSAFR for tuning.

Gotta sleep now.

 

[tweety2300]

So you want a free flowing exhaust but won't do an intake because that would be too loud?

 

[StealthWyvern]

1) intakes arn't loud...
2) exhaust gets loud when your on it.... if you want quite and want some power gains do a catless midpipe and call it a day. Your muffler and rezonater will help keep the sound down and determines how loud it is as well. it really depends on your setup.

Not to mention an upgraded downpipe requires fuel pump internals, .

WTF are you talking about? Protege's are not speed3's.....

 

[tweety2300]

Not all Hondas are raspy 4-2-1 header and 2.5" header back like mine yes loud as hell but if you have a real exhaust with muffler resonator and cat its not horribly loud and has a deep ish tone untill vtec comes in

 

[float_6969]

Yea, that's the first time I've heard about messing with the fuel pump because of a change in exhaust. That honestly doesn't make any sense. I haven't been around these cars for ever, but I've been around import, fuel injection, and Japanese cars for 10 years, and almost all cars are fine on the stock fuel pump with bolt on and stock injectors.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Yea, that's the first time I've heard about messing with the fuel pump because of a change in exhaust. That honestly doesn't make any sense. I haven't been around these cars for ever, but I've been around import, fuel injection, and Japanese cars for 10 years, and almost all cars are fine on the stock fuel pump with bolt on and stock injectors.

Its very common and need mod on the speed 3's and 6's when you start upping the power. Their fuel pump isnt like your normal fuel pump that we are used to.

 

[float_6969]

Weird!

 

[spicy yellow]

So you want a free flowing exhaust but won't do an intake because that would be too loud?

I've read that the intake upgrade gets only 1-2hp extra. If Ithats wrong, I would definitely get the intake. What do you guys think about the power gains from an new intake? Keep in mind I'm only doing bolt ons.

 

[Bonks]

I've read that the intake upgrade gets only 1-2hp extra. If Ithats wrong, I would definitely get the intake. What do you guys think about the power gains from an new intake? Keep in mind I'm only doing bolt ons.

those are just numbers.. an intake with hard piping will deliver colder air, faster

 

[tweety2300]

+1

The cooler air that goes in the less a turbo will heat it and it will still get more air do a bit less lag

 

[spicy yellow]

OK you guys got me convinced. Any thoughts on the ram air (short tube in the engine bay) vs. cold air intake (long tube goes down into the fender)? I live in the pacific northwest so lots of rain - thats why they filmed the X-files here. Is the risk of water ingestion in the cold air intake a real risk or is it just theory?

I think I'll be going with a turbo back 2.5" exhaust with free flow cat, resonator, and muffler. My only debate is which free flow muffler delivers on both noise and performance? Stock? Any brand recommendations?

 

[Spiced MSP]

cold air intake is fine unless you think you will be going through some really deep puddles of water. I've ran a CAI and have driven through some pretty bad rain with no issues. I've even splashed through a lot of puddles with no issues. It's just the big puddles that are an issue

 

[StealthWyvern]

Just leave the boost alone and you will be fine with any bolt on you put on it for the most part.

 

[spicy yellow]

Just leave the boost alone and you will be fine with any bolt on you put on it for the most part.

but could I reach my goal of 220whp at stock boost? How about if I go up to 8psi, and would that be safe? Mind you, I won't be concerned about noise when I'm at full boost.

 

[StealthWyvern]

but could I reach my goal of 220whp at stock boost? How about if I go up to 8psi, and would that be safe? Mind you, I won't be concerned about noise when I'm at full boost.

Nope, fully bolted without a tune you might reach 190-ish whp at 7psi. Even that is preatty fun to drive! You will have to up the boost to get 220whp. HOWEVER I HIGHLY recommend getting a wideband and study how the factory ECU triggers open loop. If you dont know how the ECU controls the fuel its real easy to blow the motor at higher boost levels. Also to get 220ish-whp you will need a way to tune the car.