Do we need to set up a separate stalker poast?
What have you done to your MS3 today?
- Thread starter ZoomVT
- Start date
Do we need to set up a separate stalker poast?
Went to change my oil and rotate my tires a few minutes ago and discovered that my lower control arm had gobs of a grease type substance that may have a green tint (it was so dirty it was hard to tell). It was also all over the tie rod and the splash shield. I would say that if I had balled it all up it would be about the size of a baseball.
Anyone know what this is and where it is coming from? I should've gotten a picture but I didn't think about it until I had cleaned it all away and didn't readily see the source of it.
I also discovered that the top of my right side sway bar end link wasn't hooked up in the front and the nut is gone. So if anyone knows what size nut it takes that would be helpful as well.
Edit: Found a nut that fit the sway bar end link. Also, the mystery substance is also splattered on the inside of the wheel. And, not sure if this is related or not but there has been a slight squeaking coming from that corner.
Anyone know what this is and where it is coming from? I should've gotten a picture but I didn't think about it until I had cleaned it all away and didn't readily see the source of it.
I also discovered that the top of my right side sway bar end link wasn't hooked up in the front and the nut is gone. So if anyone knows what size nut it takes that would be helpful as well.
Edit: Found a nut that fit the sway bar end link. Also, the mystery substance is also splattered on the inside of the wheel. And, not sure if this is related or not but there has been a slight squeaking coming from that corner.
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chief_wiggum
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed3-2010 Mazda5 GT
without pictures this is just a guess; check your CV joint boots -- I'd guess they are torn/cut and that's where the grease came from.
oaklandopen
Member
Yup....cv joint juice sounds about right
im not sure if that requires a complete replacement or if it can be regreased with a new boot. either way the whole shaft will have to come out to service
im not sure if that requires a complete replacement or if it can be regreased with a new boot. either way the whole shaft will have to come out to service
oaklandopen
Member
drivetrain and suspension stuff can be tough, but doable with the right tools. i am just wondering if the whole halfshaft has to be replaced. essentially the cv joint is a sealed unit, so "quick fixes" arent a real good option
and honestly id rather replace the whole thing myself instead of repacking with grease and making an attempt to fix the boot
That very well could be, but the side that is having the potential CV problems was connected. But I suppose that there still could be additional sway bar travel that has caused problems.
If it does turn out to be the problem I'm going to end up replacing the whole halfshaft. I'm sure that it has been cut for a while and crud and stuff has gotten in the CV joint so I'd rather not have to worry about it. Plus, I've read that it's easier to change the halfshaft than just the boot.
Might want to look into a half-shaft from Cardone ...because the dealer is going to charge you a grand.
...I'm dead serious. Someone in NATOR NY/NJ priced one out; $999 or some retarded bulls*** like that. @8.5MS3... I know you got wind of that. Who was that? Was it Kritz?
...I'm dead serious. Someone in NATOR NY/NJ priced one out; $999 or some retarded bulls*** like that. @8.5MS3... I know you got wind of that. Who was that? Was it Kritz?
Yeah I think I remember seeing that somewhere too, maybe MSF? I might call the dealership just to see what craziness they spout.
I just checked Mazda Motorsports and they have a "REMAN, CV AXLE" part number: GG27-25-500R-0L for $179.18, which sounds to me what I would need.
I still need to verify that this is in fact what is wrong, but just from reading other people's experience around the internet I'm 90% positive because the symptoms are all the same.
I just checked Mazda Motorsports and they have a "REMAN, CV AXLE" part number: GG27-25-500R-0L for $179.18, which sounds to me what I would need.
I still need to verify that this is in fact what is wrong, but just from reading other people's experience around the internet I'm 90% positive because the symptoms are all the same.
oaklandopen
Member
Its gonna be noisy, especially around turns, when the grease is gone and the bearings start to wear
Record the conversation and post it... it'll be good comedy.
I might have to do that.
Eh sounds like I'll need this too: GG46-25-600A, SHAFT(L),DRIVE $306.53
Good question I don't know the answer to it though.
According to this image:
25-400Z encompasses the following parts:
GG44-25-600R-0D CV AXLE $179.18
GG46-25-600C DRIVE SHAFT LT $307.63
Not sure if you need both or just the "CV AXLE" can be replaced. The price of both of these is $486.81 which makes more sense if the dealership is charging $700-900.
According to this image:
25-400Z encompasses the following parts:
GG44-25-600R-0D CV AXLE $179.18
GG46-25-600C DRIVE SHAFT LT $307.63
Not sure if you need both or just the "CV AXLE" can be replaced. The price of both of these is $486.81 which makes more sense if the dealership is charging $700-900.
oaklandopen
Member
according to my factory manual you can service the drive shafts, and in your case that means removal and replacement of the cv dust boot and re-greasing, assuming no damage has been done to the bearings
it's pretty involved, and i don't know what tools you have or don't have. when you replace the boot you need a special tool that will clamp down a new hose clamp that is not one of those bolt type dealies you can just throw on a garden hose
just be sure if you're going to take stuff apart and reinstall it you need to make marks where pieces disconnect so they can go back in the same way. this is especially important when it comes to balance (big deal when you do a rwd drive shaft). a bottle of white out should do the trick, or a silver-colored sharpy might help too
it's pretty involved, and i don't know what tools you have or don't have. when you replace the boot you need a special tool that will clamp down a new hose clamp that is not one of those bolt type dealies you can just throw on a garden hose
just be sure if you're going to take stuff apart and reinstall it you need to make marks where pieces disconnect so they can go back in the same way. this is especially important when it comes to balance (big deal when you do a rwd drive shaft). a bottle of white out should do the trick, or a silver-colored sharpy might help too
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Well judging by the amount of grease that was all over my car I would say that boot has been cut for some time. By the time I get around to changing it which probably won't be until early July I'd rather just replace everything to be on the safe side.
MikeHTally
Member
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- 2008.5 Speed3, 2006 Chrysler 300C, 2003 Ram 1500
Filled today from just under 1/2 a tank - 23.3 mpg, so that's almost 3 mpg better. I'm kinda surprised there was that much difference. With the recent fuel price declines, my fuel cost/mile went from $.20 to $.15
