The Slammed Life

fitment in general is unneeded, I like to tuck aggressive offsets, if you don't then don't,
tuck aggressive offsets then...just not unneeded lol -9 camber is ridiculous imho
but nevermind me.
do what you do :)
i like it and DON'T like equally
 
Just a curious question... not trolling...

But in your experiences of checking out other slammed cars with crazy camber and such... at what point does s*** just start breaking?
 
Yep, my rear brake pads wore surprisingly fast as well, so the camber might have something to do with that.

Other than that I've had a foglight go out (guessing because of the stiffness), my window is slightly off track, (again most likely due to stiffnesss) I had smashed up my AC compressor (fixed now C:), both my fenders are more ***** than a hooker, and yeah, when I first cambered it the Toe was COMPLETELY out of wack as well, that's all I can think of though.. all that is moreso a height thing though, only camber thing would be tire wear, and possibly the brake wear..
 
I don't understand how it would cause premature brake wear. Hmmm... I will have to think about that a little bit. Interesting.

I guess floating calipers would cause a pad to gravitate more toward the rotor. Were the pads evenly worn?
 
Yeah, that doesn't compute. May be due to the fact that its floating rotors?

Also. Think about this. If each corner had 1000 lbs, for every degree of camber your putting about 100lbs more hieght on that corner because of the angle. Does that make sense?
 
That's what I'm saying, I haven't actually replaced the pads yet do hvent gotten a close look, but it's seems like a good excuse to be closely monitoring my rear pads at 36k
 
Yeah, that doesn't compute. May be due to the fact that its floating rotors?

Also. Think about this. If each corner had 1000 lbs, for every degree of camber your putting about 100lbs more hieght on that corner because of the angle. Does that make sense?

Makes sense to me... that's more or less why I asked how much stuff breaks.
 
Contemplating my Suspension, wheel, tire setup. I am on used Megan Racing Springs and used Monroe Struts. I think the driver-side rear strut may be a little weak since it doesn't handle weight as well as the passenger side. When I put over 50lbs in the rear or more, the driver side will start tucking tire. With the stock 16x6 +50 wheels and I will occasionally have some rubbing issues when I turn right. The wheels I want are 17x7 +42. Although the offset it lower, the wheels are 1" wider and 9/10 of the added inch is on the outside of the wheel. Would it be possible to run these wheels with a tire stretch and fender rolling? I can always replace the strut if that's what's causing the sagging, but I would like to make those wheels fit.

I am planning on rolling my rear fenders very soon. I found a few people that will do it for $25 a fender and I hope this will fix all issues. If I ever do go with coilovers, it's not in my near future. Is it possible to get camber plates for struts and lowering springs? Is that ethical? I'm not shooting for anything too extreme, just lower than stock with nice wheels.

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After getting ALOT of Groceries

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With original struts in the hatch, on the way home after installing new ones.

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wheels I want
XXR 941 Gunmetal with Machined Lip. 17x7 +42
 
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You won't even need a stretch, put some 205/40s and call it a day. Shouldn't need a roll. AWR makes camber plates that will bolt up for around 300. I'd slot the struts or get some camber bolts before you go that far
 
You won't even need a stretch, put some 205/40s and call it a day. Shouldn't need a roll. AWR makes camber plates that will bolt up for around 300. I'd slot the struts or get some camber bolts before you go that far
Like I said earlier, I'm new to the whole fitment game. What does "slotting the struts" and Camber Bolts accomplish? Is it a way of getting some negative camber out of your setup without buying camber plates and adjusting the whole shebang?
 
Well you still have to adjust the car but yes. It's a cheap, effective and easy way to gain some negative camber
 
Well you still have to adjust the car but yes. It's a cheap, effective and easy way to gain some negative camber
know any good links to videos, or threads explaining/how to?

*Edit, I found some videos explaining camber bolts. They look like something I will invest in. I should be able to use camber bolts without having to slot my struts if I'm not mistaken. I believe a lower profile tire (40 or 45) plus a little fender roll and some camber bolts should do the trick :D. Thanks alot!
 
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Please mods add 719 I have zero access to a computer.
When I replace my fenders would it be worth slotting the fronts slightly so I don't have to do as much of a pull? Talking an extra degree at most
Also can the whole rear fender well be pulled out to get away from duck biling the rear? I'm wanting to drop it a quarter inch or so to tuck I little more tire
 

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