CorkSport MSP Downpipe

[Gwynne_]

The part has been released http://www.corksport.com/corksport-power-series-downpipe-mazdaspeed-protege.html

 

[spicyprotevo]

Will be ordering in a little over a month!

 

[jdwk]

Is it possible to remove the downpipe without taking off the manifold and turbo? I've spent some time looking at it, and 4 of the 5 bolts are definitely doable, but not sure about the 5th. It's tucked back there, and not sure what kind of wrench could reach it and have any sort of leverage on it.

I am sure it is much easier with it out and since I've had it out twice, it isn't that hard. But the reason I asked, is I have been battling my manifold bolts (now studs) for supremacy for almost as long as I've had the car. They just don't want to stay in, and now they are all threadlocked. The problem is, if I take the studs out, they will not want to go back in because of the dried threadlock. One hole is already half stripped due to my stupidity, so I'd like to avoid stripping anymore.

I've been waiting for this for so long, I may just buy it to hang it on the wall, along with my worthless SLS mid pipe.

*Edit* Good isntructions, clearly show that it must definitely all come down. I wonder if using a tap would clean out the holes on the head good enough to get the studs back in without major drama.

 

[_Chris]

Is it possible to remove the downpipe without taking off the manifold and turbo? I've spent some time looking at it, and 4 of the 5 bolts are definitely doable, but not sure about the 5th. It's tucked back there, and not sure what kind of wrench could reach it and have any sort of leverage on it.

I am sure it is much easier with it out and since I've had it out twice, it isn't that hard. But the reason I asked, is I have been battling my manifold bolts (now studs) for supremacy for almost as long as I've had the car. They just don't want to stay in, and now they are all threadlocked. The problem is, if I take the studs out, they will not want to go back in because of the dried threadlock. One hole is already half stripped due to my stupidity, so I'd like to avoid stripping anymore.

I've been waiting for this for so long, I may just buy it to hang it on the wall, along with my worthless SLS mid pipe.

*Edit* Good isntructions, clearly show that it must definitely all come down. I wonder if using a tap would clean out the holes on the head good enough to get the studs back in without major drama.

I used most of our old instructions for this as we no longer have a stock car to build off of. I had one of the first downpipes on my car (two piece design). I was able to just unbolt the AC compressor and remove the bracket and was able to get to all of the bolts. I was not sure if that was going to be the case with a factory downpipe. I did a lot of looking around and everyone was saying that you have to remove everything to get it out. I also went with it taking it all the way out just because we ship it now with Allen head bolts because the welds have to be so tight to the edge since there is not a lot of room between the bolt holes and the size of piping to clear studs with nuts on them.

Would it be possible to get the stock downpipe out by taking the AC compressor out?

 

[jdwk]

I just got under/over the car and attempted to get a wrench or socket on all 5 bolts without removing anything and was actually successful. I could only get an open end of a combo wrench on the one right under the S pipe, so that would definitely take some time, but I think you could get it off. The lower one in the back I was able to get with a deep 12mm and a 1" swivel extension on a 3/8" wrench. So unless something actually prevents me from pulling the pipe off the studs, I think it can be done without removing the whole turbo setup. Looks like the A/C would have to move to get the CS pipe on though, but I assume you don't even need to disconnect the lines, but maybe it can.

I am sure someone has tried this before, so maybe they can chime in and let me know what roadblock I would actually run into. I was actually surprised at the little amount of torque required to start loosening them.

Guess I need to pony up and buy the pipe. Then I'll need to find someone to cut the J off my SLS and make it fit over the cross member properly.

Why did I pick such an expensive, challenging, time consuming hobby? At least it is better than golf.

 

[jdwk]

Is there a Mazdas24/7 coupon code? How about for loyal customers that waited two years for you to start making this again?

 

[91Protege]

Haha yea Its prob almost faster to just undo the manifold and lift up the whole piece out of the way. I think its like 10 bolts for the manifold. Then up it comes.

 

[Circuit]

Is there a Mazdas24/7 coupon code? How about for loyal customers that waited two years for you to start making this again?

The simple fact that new parts are being made for the Protege platform is a good enough coupon, IMO

 

[jdwk]

Never hurts to ask.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I used most of our old instructions for this as we no longer have a stock car to build off of. I had one of the first downpipes on my car (two piece design). I was able to just unbolt the AC compressor and remove the bracket and was able to get to all of the bolts. I was not sure if that was going to be the case with a factory downpipe. I did a lot of looking around and everyone was saying that you have to remove everything to get it out. I also went with it taking it all the way out just because we ship it now with Allen head bolts because the welds have to be so tight to the edge since there is not a lot of room between the bolt holes and the size of piping to clear studs with nuts on them.

Would it be possible to get the stock downpipe out by taking the AC compressor out?

Would you happen to still have the 2 piece original CS DP? I have a new mid pipe with the J pipe attached all in one piece so I am looking for the S pipe off the turbo instead of buying an entire DP and having to cut up my mid pipe. I would gladly pay you plus shipping for the old S pipe that was on your car.

 

[jdwk]

I have an SLS mid pipe with the J as well. I was just going to have it cut off, since I've been looking for someone selling the two piece for a long time now with no luck. I wonder how many people are in the same situation.

My SLS wasn't made very well and fits terribly, so it's just been sitting on my garage floor since August waiting for me to do something with it. I was going to have to have a muffler shop rework it anyway, so it's not that big of a deal to just cut off the J. It's a waste, but not as much as a waste as letting it rot on my garage floor.

 

[KrayzieFox]

You can so easily get a new midpipe without the J and sell your current one.. Please if you buy one of these pipes DO NOT CUT IT!!

 

[jdwk]

Looking at what the SLS has gone for used (even though mine was on the car for about 15 minutes in sunny Arizona), I'll probably come out the same. It's stainless with a cat and cost me $380 from PG. A non-J stainless mid-pipe with a cat would probably be around $300 from a local shop. I figure cutting the J off and adding a flange would be about $100 in parts and labor. So I'd have to sell the SLS for over $200 plus shipping to come out ahead, plus wait for it to sell.

Don't worry cutting the Corksport was never an option.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I paid about $100 for my catless mid and J pipe combo. I don't know what brand it is but it's in really good shape and it's stainless. Finding a CS S pipe to bolt to it would be cheaper than getting an entire new DP and mid pipe setup and would offer similar gains unless I plan on boosting over 10 psi (which I don't unless I go forged).

 

[mazda3gboostin]

gb ill b in if it goes for 349

 

[_Chris]

hornsfan10609 send me a PM with a offer.

 

[hdiddy27]

Il be in for GB too. Question is do we still get points for your website. Back when I got my FMIC I called you guys for a question and I ended up ordering over the phone and lost out on 50 points = $50 because you guys didn't tell me that was restricted to online orders. Otherwise I would have ordered online. Want to make sure I know everything before hand

 

[jdwk]

Same thing happened when I ordered my Tokico shocks and springs last year. Called about a question and ordered over the phone. No points, although they may have not had the points system by then.
I called yesterday and asked if there is anyway they could give me the 30 points retroactively and no dice. They said they haven't decided on doing a GB on the DP yet. If so, I'll be in. Trying to save money where I can.

 

[mazda3gboostin]

Gb ?

 

[_Chris]

Gb ?

Currently we are not doing a group buy on it. Sorry