What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
Maiello169
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protege, Speed
Love the gauge set up .
Thanks!
I had a triple pillar pod for a while, but it was annoying. The din gauge panel is awesome!
Thinking about removing the radio to add another triple gauge din panel for EGT, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. Can't hear the stereo over the exhaust anyways. s***, may as well remove the speakers and wiring while I'm at it, lol.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
As long as we're talkin one-off shift knobs... bringing an oldie back.
You drive a MSP, problem solved.
Maiello169
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protege, Speed
Very true, if u can't hear it anyways, why not , that must be some loud exhaust lol just got my full pillar last week, just have my boost gauge and my oil pressure gauge is on its way... News a 3rd, everyone said to get the wideband, dnt have the $200-$300 right now to get that tho, need to fix all my other problems first lolHere's my custom one-off shift knob.
http://i145.photobucket.c
om/albums/r205/wdell1010/IMAG0004.jpg
Maiello169
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protege, Speed
Yeah you don't have to tell me , so true lol
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Put another $300 towards my car loan today. Just browsed the For Sale section (it's an addiction) and found at least $1000 worth of parts I would love to buy LOL. It really is a sickness... and my only solution is to keep paying extra on the loan BEFORE looking at the stuff for sale.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Hah.. Stick with the MSP. I can't go through a FS section and come away without about 6K of "I WANT"... and (admitting this is disgusting) I've already spent that much on mods.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Oh no doubt I've surpassed that amount a long time ago haha. I remember making a rough estimate a couple months back of all the parts I could sell off and still have the car running to sell it. Came up with over $3000 total, and that was after factoring in the depreciation of all the new parts I bought. That also doesn't include the parts that I've bought since then, including the EMS-4 and payments on the 505 manifold lol.
In the long run, I don't really care about the money because I enjoy driving the car and I'm still young which entitles me to make bad decisions.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Yeah, but I've only had the car since April... and its been parked since october! LOL.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Ooooh I thought you were talking about your old MSP haha. Yea that is pretty talented to spend that kind of money in less than a year.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Nah, all things said and done, the MSP paid me to mod it... lost my shirt on trade-in, but the mods I made money on.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Built motor?
- :
- MSP 1145
it's ok to spend that much on a car that deserves it. lol. i'm ok with it in my car...the STi i mean.
amongst other things
ok guys i really need some help here. Due to the lack of check engine lights im a bit stumped.
Heres whats wrong that I know so far (Car has 112k Miles):
Losing coolant every day (I have to add about 16 ounces if I drive it two or three days
- Its not in the oil
- Its not leaving a puddle
- I can see it all over my air intake, so I assume its spitting back out the reservoir for some reason
If I stay in traffic, use ac, or don’t get good airflow the car will overheat
- Car gets to operating temp really fast (great on cold days, but I know its bad)
Car is smoking pretty bad (white smoke)
- Up until today it wasn’t smoking (see paragraph below)
When I start the car it barely idles and sometimes will throw a cyl 4 misfire
- It will catch itself and idle eventually but I can feel extra vibration in the car
When driving it doesn’t want to boost well, and it seems slow and vibrates a lot
Ok, back story:
When it started I replaced the coils, and boots on coil and all 4 plugs thinking it was ignition. Didn’t help, it was still driving poorly. Then it got to the point where when I start it, it doesn’t want to idle and will throw that cyl 4 misfire code. So I did a compression test to see if it was HG/Rings.
I yielded 175 175 171 175 which is great for 112k miles and is within 10% on the low one.
Car wasn’t smoking, and theres no coolant in oil and no puddles on ground. I assume for the coolant its my water pump. I assume its not circulating well and its overheating and coming out the reservoir. Its actually been going on for a year but I didn’t notice it cause I had both fans as a rad fan in the summer so it was cooling it down. I switched it to the ac fan and that’s when I noticed it was overheating.
I also heard the car getting louder, so I snooped and found that my thunder mani was cracked in 2 places. I figured this was why it wasn’t boosting well, and making a noise whenever I hit the gas, etc. When I took the mani off the car theres a huge crack from top to bottom and the egr fitting broke off in my hand. Not good. So I got a stock one and finally got it on yesterday.
Problem is still happening and now the car is billowing white smoke. It hadn’t smoked up until today. I did notice when I checked for shaft play there was a tiny bit up and down, and more back and forth. Also if I spin it by hand it doesn’t make it a whole revolution on its own. I assume with a bb turbo it should spin freer but I don’t have another one to compare it to. Its also making a noise when I accelerate. Its not a loud sound like in the youtube vids (but that could just be mine isn’t as bad). Car doesn’t boost fast as it used to, and I wont gun it as I don’t know whats wrong. There is also no oil in my charge piping.
Theres no cel’s other than when it wont idle. Any ideas or other tests? Im thinking blown turbo but im really stumped here cause not all the symptoms of major issues are there so its making it more difficult.
Thanks in advance
Heres whats wrong that I know so far (Car has 112k Miles):
Losing coolant every day (I have to add about 16 ounces if I drive it two or three days
- Its not in the oil
- Its not leaving a puddle
- I can see it all over my air intake, so I assume its spitting back out the reservoir for some reason
If I stay in traffic, use ac, or don’t get good airflow the car will overheat
- Car gets to operating temp really fast (great on cold days, but I know its bad)
Car is smoking pretty bad (white smoke)
- Up until today it wasn’t smoking (see paragraph below)
When I start the car it barely idles and sometimes will throw a cyl 4 misfire
- It will catch itself and idle eventually but I can feel extra vibration in the car
When driving it doesn’t want to boost well, and it seems slow and vibrates a lot
Ok, back story:
When it started I replaced the coils, and boots on coil and all 4 plugs thinking it was ignition. Didn’t help, it was still driving poorly. Then it got to the point where when I start it, it doesn’t want to idle and will throw that cyl 4 misfire code. So I did a compression test to see if it was HG/Rings.
I yielded 175 175 171 175 which is great for 112k miles and is within 10% on the low one.
Car wasn’t smoking, and theres no coolant in oil and no puddles on ground. I assume for the coolant its my water pump. I assume its not circulating well and its overheating and coming out the reservoir. Its actually been going on for a year but I didn’t notice it cause I had both fans as a rad fan in the summer so it was cooling it down. I switched it to the ac fan and that’s when I noticed it was overheating.
I also heard the car getting louder, so I snooped and found that my thunder mani was cracked in 2 places. I figured this was why it wasn’t boosting well, and making a noise whenever I hit the gas, etc. When I took the mani off the car theres a huge crack from top to bottom and the egr fitting broke off in my hand. Not good. So I got a stock one and finally got it on yesterday.
Problem is still happening and now the car is billowing white smoke. It hadn’t smoked up until today. I did notice when I checked for shaft play there was a tiny bit up and down, and more back and forth. Also if I spin it by hand it doesn’t make it a whole revolution on its own. I assume with a bb turbo it should spin freer but I don’t have another one to compare it to. Its also making a noise when I accelerate. Its not a loud sound like in the youtube vids (but that could just be mine isn’t as bad). Car doesn’t boost fast as it used to, and I wont gun it as I don’t know whats wrong. There is also no oil in my charge piping.
Theres no cel’s other than when it wont idle. Any ideas or other tests? Im thinking blown turbo but im really stumped here cause not all the symptoms of major issues are there so its making it more difficult.
Thanks in advance
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