Just bought a sweet condition p5. 110,000 loaded. Nice car. PO just had an alternator put on, with new belts. The belts would scream on and off. Nothing could creat the squeal, ie turning the AC on or steering doesn't make a belt squeal... The PO put brand new Gates greenline belts in. There was an obvious punt if gummy belt conditioner on them. I have removed those belts and thoroughly cleaned the pulleys with brake cleaner. I replaced those belts with brand new Gates greenline. All was great, and then 30 miles and two restarts later the belts are squealing in and off again. Please tell me there is a fix to this problem! What can I do?
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Ok. I give.. Belt squeal
- Thread starter Mopar92
- Start date
I had the same problem. Especially if it rained or I put the a/c on. For my car the answer was the alternator. It was never properly tightened . It's a pain to get to. I had to get the car up on ramps and get under there to access all the bolts. Loosened everything , adjusted the tension , tightened everything , and so far the squeal is gone.
I had the same problem. Especially if it rained or I put the a/c on. For my car the answer was the alternator. It was never properly tightened . It's a pain to get to. I had to get the car up on ramps and get under there to access all the bolts. Loosened everything , adjusted the tension , tightened everything , and so far the squeal is gone.
(iagree) My car is doin the exact same thing. I narrowed it down to the alternator because it only does it right after start up when I have the heat cranked full blast. Good luck (2thumbs)
justanothermp5
Banned
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New belts usually stretch out after a few start ups, just re-tighten both belts.
The key is not to drive with them squeeling for an extended period, that causes glazing and then you would have to replace the belt
The key is not to drive with them squeeling for an extended period, that causes glazing and then you would have to replace the belt
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
^Exactly! Also, I know several people have mentioned this, but you have to follow the procedure outlined in the shop manual for adjusting alternator position. Make sure you loosen ALL the bolts, even the one that is hard to get to! If you don't the alt. won't move and the belts will still squeal!
I have a very short belt squeak, only when the A/C is on and only when I am either gaining or loosing RPM's. I have tightened the belt but I just don't want to overtighten it. The tightening I did seems to have helped, should I keep cranking on it? If it is only when the A/C is on it doesn't have anything to do with the Alt belt right?
justanothermp5
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The adjustment screws for the alternator are accesible from the top without much trouble, just adjusted mine last week.
You have to loosen the locking bolt on the bottom of the alternator. I have never done that from the top, not even with my 626 intake manifold that gives me more room.
You sure you did it correctly?
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
^True. It's very hard, if not impossible, from the top.
it is possible, I actually just did it two days ago. keep in mind mine was in my 02 LX but i dont see the bay being different. i can see the strut bar getting in your way but other then that it was easy to reach the lower bolt. though i did tighten it by crawling under the car but the rest was all done from the top.
You shouldn't need to loosen the bottom bolt as it just a pivot point. If it is too tigh too allow you to adjust the alternator, you can remove the strut brace and whatever the thing attached on that side is and move it out of the way to gain access to the bolt. If you need to remove the alternator that is the path I take it out as well. I was taught to tighten the alternator belt untill you can twist the longest stretch of it only a quarter turn. Whether or not this is the proper technique or not, it has worked for me.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
You do need to loosen the bottom bolt...when it is tight, the alternator won't pivot properly. I've tried numerous times to shortcut without loosening it, and it doesn't work. Plus, the shop manual indicates loosening that belt is a step in adjusting the alternator.
I just did this yesterday as I had to re-adjust my belts since they were squealing after putting them on about 50 miles before.
Easy way for me was to do the power steering belt by the shop manual, loosening the two bolts then adjusting for minor deflection.
Then for the alternator belt, I suggest removing the cruise control unit to get it out of the way by taking off the two screws holding it to the bracket (2 10mm bolts on passenger side). Get that out of the way so you can easily loosen the top nut of the alternator and can get to the adjustment nut of the alternator as well. You can then jack up your vehicle to get to the bottom nut of the alternator, but I didn't have to do this step since my squeal stopped there. Better to do it right then to have to do it again. In my case I ran out of time and will re check it again.
Easy way for me was to do the power steering belt by the shop manual, loosening the two bolts then adjusting for minor deflection.
Then for the alternator belt, I suggest removing the cruise control unit to get it out of the way by taking off the two screws holding it to the bracket (2 10mm bolts on passenger side). Get that out of the way so you can easily loosen the top nut of the alternator and can get to the adjustment nut of the alternator as well. You can then jack up your vehicle to get to the bottom nut of the alternator, but I didn't have to do this step since my squeal stopped there. Better to do it right then to have to do it again. In my case I ran out of time and will re check it again.
Saw the headlights dim tonight on and off. When I am driving and let off, let the engine go toward idle, lights dim, heater fan slows, belt squeals. Go to power, lights brighten, fan blows harder. Previous owner just had replaced the alternator too!!! Got home tonight, high beams, full fan, wipers, etc... 11.98-12.05 charge volts at the battery. Rev it up, 13.2 volts. Sounds like the new Alternator is going bad, and slips the belt because of draw at low rpms!
I tightened the brand new Gates green back this morning. Last night, full lights and sirens was 11.8-12.2 Volts t idle. Today, tightened belt, seriously cleaned the terminals and post's... 13.4-14.1 at idle with everything going. If you guys have your fan on high, and the radiator fan kicks on, does your interior fan drop a little? I noticed that when the rad fan kicked on at idle, it went to 13.1 or so but got back up to 14.00 or so before the rad fan kicked off. So I think the regulator, battery, and alternator are ok?? We will see
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
That sounds normal too me. The radiator fan pulls a decent amount of juice so a voltae drop is expected
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