Tuning Issue? Boost cut? Fuel cut? Help Please!

acejm25

Member
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2007 Mazdaspeed3
Hey guys, I am looking for a little help here.

A bit about my car-- It is a 2007 MS3,
AEM CAI,
Corksport TIP,
Protege Garage K04,
CXRacing FMIC,
Turbosmart BPV,
Corksport racepipe,
Corksport CBE,
CP-E Standback v2 and PNP harness.
Denso 2 step colder plugs gapped at .027

All parts were installed by professionals except the BPV. The tune was also professionally done although we could not solve all the issues.

Issues-- stutter and popping sound when the car hits full boost, usually around 4000RPM when warm and stutter during light load early in the morning when cold out,

Boost Cut (I think, car seems to briefly shut down as boost creeps up, very violent) Recently threw Cylinder 4 misfire code, changed coils with cyl.2 and code hasn't returned yet.

When I first start the car, my AEM wideband readings fluctuate from 12.5 to 17 untill warm. A/F is at a safe 10 at WOT.

I have Aeroforce Gauges to read other params, including KR. Random KR is present. During first part of morning commute random KR up to 7 during cruise conditions. Sometimes present under heavy throttle but not consistent.

I am a noob to the car scene, but I decided to moniter valve timing, and sometimes at idle I am getting readings between 0-20. (not sure what that means) Sometimes it stays at 0.

I can attach my last SB log or take new ones in the next couple days if that would help anyone.

Any advice offered is appreciated!
 
This is the most recent datalog from the Standback that I have, I will try and take more tonight and over the weekend.
 

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Is there any smoke? Check for vacuum leaks and check the Standback. The refab K04 could be a suspect too.

I only notice a bit of smoke/steam when I first start it in the morning. Besides looking and listening, how do most people check for vacuum leaks? My Aeroforce Gauge and Mech. Boost Gauge both say I have 20inHg at idle.

What would you check on the Standback?
 
On the SB, check the wiring for cuts or breaks. Also, ensure the connections are tight.. As far as vacuum leaks, check vacuum tubes near BPV, Turbo and PCV for kinks or breaks.
 
Before pusing the car into the ocean I decided to run a few more datalogs on the SB.

Below is what I have found. I suppose this means I need a new fuel pump.

My question is, why was my AEM wideband still showing A/FRs in the 10s? (Maybe a stupid noob question, but I am curious)graph 7.webpgraph 8.webpgraph 6.webp
 
From the looks of it you are correct on the fuel pump, that is a pretty drastic drop. I dont know about the wideband tho, my boost gauge sucks and i figured that out once i bought a dash hawk.
 
10:1 afr is way too rich to be running. No richer or no leaner than 11.5-12:1. 10:1 is stupid rich. If your FP drops but afr remains the same, that's the ECU doing a last-ditch effort to save teh motor basically.

Injector seals are a good idea, and while doing those you should upgrade the crows feet to a stud/nut combo a-la PTP (hpfpupgrade.com)
 
10:1 afr is way too rich to be running. No richer or no leaner than 11.5-12:1. 10:1 is stupid rich. If your FP drops but afr remains the same, that's the ECU doing a last-ditch effort to save teh motor basically.

Injector seals are a good idea, and while doing those you should upgrade the crows feet to a stud/nut combo a-la PTP (hpfpupgrade.com)

Thanks for the heads up on the stud/nut combo.
 
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