Fatti03msp's Build Thread

once it get all the crap moved and relocated from atop the mani it will really look good.

Def. look at the how to before installing lol, i didnt even know it existed and ran into a few snags with the throttle cable (which was actually simple im just an idiot) and didnt know i needed a 45 degree coupler to connect my IC pipe to the throttle body.
 
got a few new updats.

got the turbo life FMIC in, going to rework the design and IC size and try to make a new kit for the car

Still waiting for my dam Steedspeed mani to come in.

but here are a few pics cause everyone likes pics

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So you're telling me to not build the motor then?!

its up to you.... i wish i did less mods to my car and put my money into my rx7.

thats sick i hope i can get my built motor in soon. How are the gains with the 505?

pretty dam good...... when i first drove the car i ripped the tires loose barely getting on it in 1st, how i would normally so low end was def. not lost

getting on it it pulled real nice, still have a few kinks to resolve but overall i really like it.
 
steedspeed mani came in finally.

Going to get it re coated, came with a tail wastegate and external dump tube so install will be fairly easy.

Straight 3" mid pipe and external dump is going to sound ******* ridiculous haha
 
Hey Fatti you dont need to hook up the Egr. I got an Obx tubular manifold on mine that doesnt have a port for eg, and I just left the tube unhooked. No check engine lights or anything. So when dropped my forged motor in I hacked the pipe off short by the egr and just welded it shut. That custom intake doesnt even have a spot to bolt an egr though does it?
 
nope the EGR is strictly a emission/inspection thing.

the intake i have...... yes your correct there is no spot for a EGR. He does make them thought so you can have a EGR

I think he has a 2nd Group Buy going on now.
 
so i drove the car yesterday, was great for the first twenty min. till i hit downtown Orlando and hit the traffic.

I pulled over to get directions on my phone and it started to overheat. It did it to me before but i thought it was cause im only one cooling fan and it was really hot out in FL

It was like 70 last night and it still did it, i know for fact on my stock rad and same fan i had no problems

Now im running an AWR rad and 505 intake mani

I know i have a few kinks to work with the intake mani install..... vac is around 12 and my idle is 1k

when i push the clutch in and come to stop the idle is jumping from 1k to 1.3k and once i finally stop it will settle to 1k

My EGTs are also at like 8 at idle as well, so for a simple vac leak it seems a bit much.

my AFRs are good when im in boost.

my buddy had a 240 and he read that when he swapped to the koyo rad they needed a cooler thermostat so it would open up.

any suggestions would be great.
 
my buddy had a 240 and he read that when he swapped to the koyo rad they needed a cooler thermostat so it would open up.

any suggestions would be great.

I installed the Mishimoto rad and my engine temps went up a little bit on the stock thermostat.

The thermostat and the temp sensor are on either side of the radiator. So if the radiator gets rid of heat more efficiently then it makes sense that the thermostat will close a little bit because it is trying to maintain a certain temp. The result of this seems to be that the coolant coming out of the engine will be higher.

A lower temp sensor is more likely to stay fully open and therefore result in lower coolant temps (as measured coming out of the block and going into the radiator).

Hope this makes sense :)
 
I remember reading somewhere that getting a lower temp therma stat is a no no for our cars. (gotta find it) Lower temp therma-stats is use to allow cars to run richer. In this car since our cars run rich as they do. The result is a negative affect.
 
I installed the Mishimoto rad and my engine temps went up a little bit on the stock thermostat.

The thermostat and the temp sensor are on either side of the radiator. So if the radiator gets rid of heat more efficiently then it makes sense that the thermostat will close a little bit because it is trying to maintain a certain temp. The result of this seems to be that the coolant coming out of the engine will be higher.

A lower temp sensor is more likely to stay fully open and therefore result in lower coolant temps (as measured coming out of the block and going into the radiator).

Hope this makes sense :)

seems so counter productive to add a better rad haha

but im going to go pick up a new thermostat and drill a hole in it. Start small and work my way up if needed to see that will help since a low thermostat is hard to find.

I remember reading somewhere that getting a lower temp therma stat is a no no for our cars. (gotta find it) Lower temp therma-stats is use to allow cars to run richer. In this car since our cars run rich as they do. The result is a negative affect.

they have that stupid little chip you can get that tricks your ecu into thinking its colder, which will advance the timing. Is that what maybe you are thinking about?

Really dont see how a thermo stat would really play that much of an affect on AFRs, i could be wrong though.

if that is the case though i can just retune my car.
 
seems so counter productive to add a better rad haha

but im going to go pick up a new thermostat and drill a hole in it. Start small and work my way up if needed to see that will help since a low thermostat is hard to find.
Yes and no. I guess you just have to think of the cooling system as a whole.

Drilling a hole will allow more coolant to flow when the engine is cold, which will mean that it will take longer to warm up.
Best bet it to get a low-temp thermostat which will let the engine warm up normally but will allow more coolant flow at lower temps.

they have that stupid little chip you can get that tricks your ecu into thinking its colder, which will advance the timing. Is that what maybe you are thinking about?

Really dont see how a thermo stat would really play that much of an affect on AFRs, i could be wrong though.

if that is the case though i can just retune my car.

Coolant temp has more to do with the tune than air temp.
 
Funkalicious is right, look into it more, it was proven that low temp thermostats hurt performance and stock 195 is best.
 
Yes and no. I guess you just have to think of the cooling system as a whole.

Drilling a hole will allow more coolant to flow when the engine is cold, which will mean that it will take longer to warm up.
Best bet it to get a low-temp thermostat which will let the engine warm up normally but will allow more coolant flow at lower temps.



Coolant temp has more to do with the tune than air temp.

ya drilling a hole will add to the time to getting to operating temp, but I always let it idle for 5 or so min. anyways before i drive it.

Really had no luck in trying to find a low temp thermostat though.

Funkalicious is right, look into it more, it was proven that low temp thermostats hurt performance and stock 195 is best.

ill search around, but i honestly have never heard of a low temp being bad for performance.
 

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