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- 2002 Mazda Protege ES
Might just as well go ahead and bleed em all it will only take a few more minutes
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
Might just as well go ahead and bleed em all it will only take a few more minutes
That would be ideal. You're talking about spacers that are bored out to fit the Protege's hub size, correct? If the spacer isn't bored to the hub size it won't be mounted perfectly centered and you could get some wheel wobble since you're basically centering the wheel using the lug bolts. And when cats switch out wheels, make sure you have hub centering rings as well. They are inexpensive but you have the assurance that your wheels are true.
You only need to bleed that one brake since that's the only one you'll open the line to. But like Sleezer said, it's a good idea to bleed them all while you're at it. Just be very careful with the bleeder valves when loosening them. I had one bend on me. Thankfully it came out and I replaced them all with SpeedBleeders.
I don't think the header paint will last very long. Why not wrap it with header wrap? I've had quite a few sets of headers wrapped and haven't had any problems. As well as a few of my local Mazda buddies. Ceramic coating is the way to go but if you don't feel like paying for it, $50 in header wrap does wonders for underhood temps.
On topic; I cleaned my windows and went to Wendys for a strawberry shake with some Mazda friends. It's funny how 90% of the cats I hang out with are Mazda owners...
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- 2002 Mazda Protege ES
That would be ideal. You're talking about spacers that are bored out to fit the Protege's hub size, correct? If the spacer isn't bored to the hub size it won't be mounted perfectly centered and you could get some wheel wobble since you're basically centering the wheel using the lug bolts. And when cats switch out wheels, make sure you have hub centering rings as well. They are inexpensive but you have the assurance that your wheels are true.
Yea I mean the spacers that have the centric ring lip, I read that they keep the spacer centered to prevent fore-mentioned wobble, but they are much more expensive than regular flat spacers
I could pound some out next week hopefully...
This. As long as you won't have any problems rubbing.
canadian357
Member
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- 2003 Protege5, 1987 Honda Accord Type-R(rice)
So I went to do the brake pads on the passenger front caliper (replace in pairs and what not) and found the rubber piston seal was shredded pretty badly and the piston was a little bunged up. So rather than screw around with a rebuild, I'm gonna go pick a new caliper for that side up tomorrow as well. I did get the new pads (wagner thermoquiet) on the driver caliper and the caliper back on, although I couldn't get the thin metal back plate off the old pads without bending the s*** out of it. How important is it, really? Also, these brakes will self adjust, right?
CheeseHelmet
Member
Those new pads should have come with shims. If not, I don't think it's the end of the world if you bent them a bit, just try to make them as flat as possible when you put them back on. Worst-case, the brakes will squeak.
The front calipers will "self adjust", when you're ready to try out the car pump the brake pedal until it's firm and you'll be fine.
Yeah, what Cheese said. The new ones should have metal shims too. And put some lube on the the shims/backing plates of the pads so they won't squeek. I'm not sure if you need to bed those brake pads or not since I'm not familiar with the brand name. But it certainly wouldn't hurt.
Ok, reporting back after 2 hours of mixed driving (highway/city/valley twists). I honestly just felt the change was going to be no more then appearance, and very little at that. But I was wrong. The car does feel more stable through higher speed turns, more planted on sweeping highway, and a pinch better in the city. Really surprised. Body roll is later then before, and there is just a little more confidence in the car based on feel alone. I did tighten down the lug nuts a 2nd time after 1/2 of the driving this afternoon, so I think I am good. Very happy with that $75. Oh, and more more thing, the car looks much better from the rear with the wheels out where they should have been.
mexicansoljah81
Member
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- '13 Mazdaspeed3
How much do u charge for spacers or is there a place I can buy them for 2003 Mazda protege5?
cleaned my IAC valve just now. took all of 15 minutes. unplugged the sensor, removed the 2 security 25t hex bolts, sprayed it all down with brake cleaner, reassembled it and took it out for spin. holy crap! It idles! lol
I wish I would have done this before. I've tried everything including a new EGR valve and nothing helped.
this....is....awesome!!!
I dont need to reset the ECU do I?
I wish I would have done this before. I've tried everything including a new EGR valve and nothing helped.
this....is....awesome!!!
I dont need to reset the ECU do I?
I took a before and after, but only from one corner.
Before the rains, got the spacers on. Hard to tell in these pictures, but there is a difference, especially in high speed turns.
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CheeseHelmet
Member
Is there a howto you followed? Or is it pretty straightforward? My idle is pretty solid but it could always be better
canadian357
Member
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- 2003 Protege5, 1987 Honda Accord Type-R(rice)
Finished the 2 front brake calipers with new Thermo-Quiet pads. The pedal is still a little soft but that might just be because I've been driving an 07 Accord all weekend. I didn't put shims on because my old ones were fubar'd and nobody in the city had a new set at 730pm on a sunday. So far no issues though... my new pads had a raised portion that looked like the shims, I wonder if that's the purpose.
CheeseHelmet
Member
Now that you mention it, yes those pads have "built-in" shims. I used the same ones on my mom's car and noticed the same "raised portion".
Is there a how to you followed? Or is it pretty straightforward? My idle is pretty solid but it could always be better
Its pretty easy. I used no how to, just jumped in it. lol
unlpug sensor
remove torx bolts
clean anything that looks like it has build up on it
reassemble in reverse order
thats it!
keys things to remember:
dont lose the o-ring.
there is a conical shaped piece that will have build up as well. this may need scraping a bit.
scrape off any carbon build up even on the tip.
heres a crude pic lol
CheeseHelmet
Member
Wow, thanks o.g.sk8er!
GlowstickNinja
Member
Installed OBX Headers, hmm that really sucked. Had to do it because pre-cat was bad, didnt want to replace it lol.
Didnt finish completely, the flange gasket off the down pipe was falling apart so i couldnt re-use it. Had to order a new one.
Car is loud as SH*T when coming straight off headers lol. Sounds like RICE.(sad1)
Didnt finish completely, the flange gasket off the down pipe was falling apart so i couldnt re-use it. Had to order a new one.
Car is loud as SH*T when coming straight off headers lol. Sounds like RICE.(sad1)
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- 2002 Mazda Protege ES
You mean you are dumping out after the header? Well yea any small engine NA car will sound like s*** when you do that...
GlowstickNinja
Member
Haha, not completely off header. The donut flange gasket is missing. Hence the sound lol. Get the new gasket in tomorrow along with the CAI, Because stock intake tube was cracked, which will be installed tomorrow. Get back to being quite again. But yeah sounds like garbage!
