Where can you find 5qt jugs of 0W20?

[jeffismrmom]

Recently got my 5 and I'm going to dump the factory fill at ~1K miles, which has always been something I've done w/new vehicles. So today I was out buying some wax and I starting looking for 0W20, which I've never really paid attention to (everything's been 5w30 in my cars for years). Anyway, both the local WallyWorld and Autozone only carry this grade by the quart, and the only options are M1 & Valvoline SynPower.

Where do you guys get your oil and does it come in five quart jugs or only single quarts?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[Heat]

The 2012 uses 0w20?

The earlier models use 5w20, which is easy to find in 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart - I use Mobil 1 in my '09 along with Mazda OEM oil filters / new crush rings each time.

 

[DKaz]

Toyota sells 4+qt jugs of 0W20.

 

[sephiroth]

check back later, Wally and autozone carry 4-5qt jugs, they're likely just sold out. 0-20W is a popular new car weight. Or just just 5W20.. it honestly does matter with such a small difference.I would bet it's an acceptable weight to use per the users manual infact.

 

[jeffismrmom]

The 2012 uses 0w20?

The earlier models use 5w20, which is easy to find in 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart - I use Mobil 1 in my '09 along with Mazda OEM oil filters / new crush rings each time.

The owner's manual lists 0W20 for US/Canada, 0W20/5W20/5W30 for Mexico. All things being equal, I'd run Motorcraft (Conoco-Phillips) 5W20 if the vehicle wasn't under warranty; it's a good, cheap oil and easily found at Walmart.

Toyota sells 4+qt jugs of 0W20.

That was the suggestion from a couple of guys over at BITOG too. I'll have to research that oil a bit more, see if I can find a VOA for it.

check back later, Wally and autozone carry 4-5qt jugs, they're likely just sold out. 0-20W is a popular new car weight. Or just just 5W20.. it honestly does matter with such a small difference.I would bet it's an acceptable weight to use per the users manual infact.

My local Walmart is pretty sketchy; there were huge holes on the Mobil shelving, yet when I read every stinking tag, I couldn't find one for the jug in that weight. Maybe I'll have to try another store or two.

BTW: Napa is offering 5qts of all M1 flavors (including 0W20) and a Napa Gold filter (Wix) for $30.99.

June Flyer.

 

[Robotazky]

OMG it does call for 0W20 in the manual. There is no way in hell I would put anything thinner than 5 weight. No way. 5W20 is already ridiculous. As soon as my warranty is up I am going with Redline 5W30. These car manufacturers are calling for lighter and lighter oil for CAFE numbers. They couldn't care less if your car makes it past 60K if they can squeeze more years out of inefficient engines. I can't believe Mazda stooped to mandating 0W20. Combine these stupidly light oils with stupidly deficient ZDDP levels in the newer API oils and you have a horrible equation for engine longevity.

 

[flcruising]

Technically, 0w20 is the same as 5w20 once it reaches operating temperatures. 0w just flows better in the cold.

 

[Robotazky]

Technically, 0w20 is the same as 5w20 once it reaches operating temperatures. 0w just flows better in the cold.

I am aware of that. The problem is: in reality it does not have the same characteristics. I have tried switching down to 0W in three different cars with bad results (i.e., noisy lifters, smoke when starting, etc.) that didn't occur with 5W and 10W. The gas mileage difference was not noticeable at all. To each his own. I won't touch the stuff any more.

 

[flcruising]

What was the oil weight called for in those vehicles?

 

[thaxman]

Sorry, I'm w/robotaz on this. 5W is already basically cooking oil. If I lived in Canada, Alaska, Montana or Minnesota, I would consider, but anywhere else...?
The thought of starting up in ambient temps over 75F with 0W is frightening. I use 5W right now - but its synth. I can't imagine using dino here in the desert with these light weights! 10W30 is my min here in the summer with dino oil.

 

[flcruising]

You may need to brush up on multi viscocity oil. Just because 5w30 oil pours easier than 10w30, doesn't mean that 10w30 is better suited to hotter climates. The first number only means that the oil flows better cold (like when you pour it out of the bottle), the second number is the weight of the oil once it reaches 210*. 0w20, 5w20, 10w20 are all the same weight oils. Lower W oils provide the most startup protection - period. If your vehicle calls for 5w20, you shouldn't be running 10w30. The manufacturing tolerances have alot to do with with what weight oil you should be using, and if you are using a heavier weight oil than what's called for, you're doing more damage than good.

 

[thaxman]

OK, perhaps I need to add a qualifier. Since my 5 is the 1st vehicle I have ever owned with less than 95K mi on it, and many of my past vehicles were not receiving the utmost attention they needed from POs, I considered 10W30 dino to be the lightest weight I could put in. Often, these past engines were so loose 20W50 was needed in the summers here to keep them lubricated. All of my current cars, and the Accord, have been taking only the manufacturers recommended oil, albeit synth. I have been able to buy cars from better owners in my post-20s and haven't had to deal with engines on life support, even though they all have been purchased either near or over 100K (the CRX - WELL OVER!). I still don't trust 0 weight oil in my scorching, dry dusty conditions here. I fret a bit over running 5W in the high-pressure turbo Volvo, and got some confirmation last oil change - 7500 miles, including a summer, full synth: it was thick coming out. The oil was in fact breaking down. So, even w/full synth, I can't exceed 5K with that car and that weight oil.

 

[sephiroth]

You may need to brush up on multi viscocity oil. Just because 5w30 oil pours easier than 10w30, doesn't mean that 10w30 is better suited to hotter climates. The first number only means that the oil flows better cold (like when you pour it out of the bottle), the second number is the weight of the oil once it reaches 210*. 0w20, 5w20, 10w20 are all the same weight oils. Lower W oils provide the most startup protection - period. If your vehicle calls for 5w20, you shouldn't be running 10w30. The manufacturing tolerances have alot to do with with what weight oil you should be using, and if you are using a heavier weight oil than what's called for, you're doing more damage than good.

you're not going to be doing any damage moving up or down 5-10W in viscosity. It just not that much of a change to do anything except eat at your gas mileage. Some oils shear down that much within the first 3,000 miles, and the same engines in different parts of the world probally use higher viscosities than here too. A good example being the OHV SBC, which uses 5W30 in the states, but in hotter climates calls for 10W40. You could go one step further if you really analyze it as some oils have higher viscositys fresh than others, so some are just 'bearly' 30weights and some have are closer to 40W's.

Lower W oils provide the most startup protection - period

yes, that said the farther the two numbers are, the worse the oil shears.

 

[flcruising]

Yes, but moving from a specified 5w20 to a 10w30 simply because you live in a hotter climate isn't following the manufacturers information. Mazda specifies the OCI be modified, not the oil weight. Also, engine tolerances don't change regardless of climate, an engine running @ 210* is still 210* whether ambient is 50* or 115*, that's simply my point.

 

[sephiroth]

Yes, but moving from a specified 5w20 to a 10w30 simply because you live in a hotter climate isn't following the manufacturers information. Mazda specifies the OCI be modified, not the oil weight. Also, engine tolerances don't change regardless of climate, an engine running @ 210* is still 210* whether ambient is 50* or 115*, that's simply my point.

if they're suggesting shorter intervules in hotter climates, it's because heat kills oil faster. I would guarantee you oil temp at 50 will not be the same as 115 . that's part of the reason why thicker oil is recommended for hot climates, it can handle the oil temps better. I wouldnt suggest moving away from what Mazda wants people to do for warranty purposes, I was simply saying it's not that big of a difference to do any harm. cadillac wants me to use some crap dexos mobil 1 5w30 and as much as it pains me, that's what I use.

 

[DKaz]

an engine running @ 210* is still 210* whether ambient is 50* or 115*, that's simply my point.

This.

 

[flcruising]

I would guarantee you oil temp at 50 will not be the same as 115 . that's part of the reason why thicker oil is recommended for hot climates, it can handle the oil temps better.

You would be wrong. Heat kills the additives which stabilize the multi viscosity properties. Once again, the engine oil doesn't care what the ambient temperature is once you're up to operating temperatures. The only characteristic that determines how it flows when it's cold (not at operating temperatures) is the weight prefix (0w, 5w, 10w). Assuming you understand that an engine reaches operating temperatures determined by it's cooling system (thermostat), then you should also understand that the oil will reach the same temperature regardless of whether it's 50* or 115*. It will take longer and be thicker only when it's heating up, so why would you want to sabotage your engine at the time that it needs the most protection? You got me...

Ok, I think I've repeated myself enough.

 

[hurschel]

Makes perfect sense to me.(popcorn)

 

[sephiroth]

You would be wrong. Heat kills the additives which stabilize the multi viscosity properties. Once again, the engine oil doesn't care what the ambient temperature is once you're up to operating temperatures. The only characteristic that determines how it flows when it's cold (not at operating temperatures) is the weight prefix (0w, 5w, 10w). Assuming you understand that an engine reaches operating temperatures determined by it's cooling system (thermostat), then you should also understand that the oil will reach the same temperature regardless of whether it's 50* or 115*. It will take longer and be thicker only when it's heating up, so why would you want to sabotage your engine at the time that it needs the most protection? You got me...

Ok, I think I've repeated myself enough.

First, stepping out of the arena of the Mazda 5 and stepping into the general automotive world, here's what I have to say;
Coolant tempreature and oil tempreature are not directly related though, I'm sorry, you're just wrong on that part. They're similar to a point, but your water temps are not block temps, and the heat conduction qualities of water(especially glycol mixed coolant) is not 100%. When the water temp is warmed up, often it takes another 5-10minuites of running the engine before the oil is up to temp. Even in cases like my B5 A4 and S4 with coolant cooled oil coolers, oil temps were 20-30 degrees colder in the winter than they were in the summer, and acutally if I pushed either car hard, water temp would remain stable, but I would freqently hit 250+ oil temps. This is could be said with any combustion engine really however. Do you believe that the MS3/6/MSP people on here run oil coolers for the looks? If you can manage to find an engine where it runs the same oil temp in 50 degree weather as it will in 115, then no, it does not matter. I simply haven't encoutered such, or heard of such is what I'm saying.

It will take longer and be thicker only when it's heating up, so why would you want to sabotage your engine at the time that it needs the most protection? You got me...

again, I'm not saying using a higher viscosity oil in the 5, understanding how it's likely being driven is the best idea, it's just not necessary. It's not that big a change unless you live somewhere that goes below freezing to 100 degrees. I'm in agreement that you should be using 0W20 regardless. Although the lower weight is likely some what related to CAFE requirements, it's also probally related to the fact that manufacturing processes, tolerances and surfaces are good enough that it allows the use of thinner oil without damage. I also believe that what Mazda reccomends for it's entire fleet of vehicles has something to do with keeping people from putting some kind of crazy 15W50 in their car and killing an engine.

To say however, that these tolerances are so tight that using a 30W oil would be sabotage however is crazy. if all else fails, I would like for you to explain why the 2.8 30V V6 in the A6 outside that has a thermostat coolant cooled oil-cooler suggests using a 5W40 oil, but states that using a 5W30 is acceptable if it's not to be driven for long distances at high speeds(such as 100+MPH). Why same weight OTS oils (say 5W30) will have different viscosities, some of which approach 40ws just by switching to different brands, and yet it's okay to use these because it says it's a 5W30. Or why some 40w oils shear down to 30w oils after a few thousand miles, and it's *not* okay to use these, or why some 30W oils shear down to 20W' oils and it's still okay to use those?

You would be wrong. Heat kills the additives which stabilize the multi viscosity properties.

I'm confused, I said heat kills oil. You're saying I'm wrong, heat kills oil. Help me here. Your own words sir

then you should also understand that the oil will reach the same temperature regardless of whether it's 50* or 115*.

Mazda specifies the OCI be modified, not the oil weight.

either there's some other variable in hotter weather that uses the oil up faster or it's ambient tempreature. Maybe it's the pollen?...

I believe you're not taking into account that an engine is also cooled by the surrounding air that enters the bay, and by extension, the air moving around the pan. When that air is colder, it cools off faster, when it's humid and hot, it will not cool off as quickly. This is called heat conduction. If you have another suggestion why the OCI is shorter in hotter climates, I would like to hear them.

 

[ErikO]

I'd like to think the Mazda engineers have taken all climates into account when designing the engine and specifying which oil it should use. If they give a warranty on the engine and specify an oil grade, they have done some research. And the fact that Toyota and Honda (and likely many others to follow) are all using this grade seems to me that it has been proven to work in any climate.

Unless one of the people here debating their recommendations is an automotive engineer by trade, I think I'll trust Mazda.