Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
You would understand if you ever saw my protege completely destroy that corvette!
Maxx Mazda's 2011 Build Thread
- Thread starter Maxx Mazda
- Start date
funkalicious21
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege 5 Turbo
bbk on the protege?!
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Started to plumb the oil system tonight. $400 worth of braided line and AN fittings. This is just about all the fittings:
Rather than stainless braided line (fugly) I went with some black fabric braided stuff. The Red accents look nice too. Started by mocking up the fittings, then cutting and running the lines. Everything is only finger tight, will be gronched down tomorrow:
The oil comes OUT of the block, IN to the bottom of the regulator, OUT the top of the regulator, IN to the bottom of the filter adapter (see note below) OUT of the oil filter, back IN to the engine. Hope that makes sense. Excuse the dusty engine bay. Sitting without a hood for two years will do that.
NOTE: It is VERY important that you get the lines right on your remote oil filter adapter. They are directional! Putting the lines in backwards will cause the backflow preventer in the filter to stop oil flow, and starve your engine of oil! This is why I did not run the line IN to the top of the filter adapter which would have looked nicer I'm sure.
Not run yet, there will be a line OUT from the regulator, IN to the windage tray for the excess pressure relief.
With the intake manifold on, there is lots of clearance. The hoses fit in between the IAT sensor and the PCV bung:
Without the flash, so you can see that everything looks very clean, and tidy. The pressure regulator is nice and easy to get to, as are the catch can and oil filter.
Tomorrow will be a BIG day as far as progress. Stay tuned!
Rather than stainless braided line (fugly) I went with some black fabric braided stuff. The Red accents look nice too. Started by mocking up the fittings, then cutting and running the lines. Everything is only finger tight, will be gronched down tomorrow:
The oil comes OUT of the block, IN to the bottom of the regulator, OUT the top of the regulator, IN to the bottom of the filter adapter (see note below) OUT of the oil filter, back IN to the engine. Hope that makes sense. Excuse the dusty engine bay. Sitting without a hood for two years will do that.
NOTE: It is VERY important that you get the lines right on your remote oil filter adapter. They are directional! Putting the lines in backwards will cause the backflow preventer in the filter to stop oil flow, and starve your engine of oil! This is why I did not run the line IN to the top of the filter adapter which would have looked nicer I'm sure.
Not run yet, there will be a line OUT from the regulator, IN to the windage tray for the excess pressure relief.
With the intake manifold on, there is lots of clearance. The hoses fit in between the IAT sensor and the PCV bung:
Without the flash, so you can see that everything looks very clean, and tidy. The pressure regulator is nice and easy to get to, as are the catch can and oil filter.
Tomorrow will be a BIG day as far as progress. Stay tuned!
95blkprobe
Member
- :
- 95 Blk Probe/ 02 Blk Mica P5
keep up the great work Maxx!!!
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Well, made some SERIOUS progress today. I'd say the car is now about 90% complete.
Finished the oil system, got everything plumbed and tightened down. Here's a shot of the bypass return ot the windage tray:
Up the side of the engine. It looks much closer than it actually is, there is a good 2.5" between the hose and the belt.
So, I suppose now is as good a time as any to finally take the wraps off my complete rewire, and explain it a little bit. There is one main "Trunk" line, with 3 main "branches" off of it. The main trunk runs left to right, along the firewall. One branch is on the passenger side, and includes the cam sensor, crank sensor, EGT probe, fuel pressure sender (these all terminate at the engine) and then continues on to the front bumper area housing the A/C clutch wire, methanol pump wiring, etc.
What I call the "center branch" gomes out of the trunk directly behind the engine. This is a busy branch containing wiring for the injectors, coils, transmission, IAC, TPS, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp (stock, autometer, and Haltech) haltech IAT, wideband and narrowband, etc. The intent of having it come out directly behind the engine was to keep everything hidden, and as you'll see I think it was a success. The third branch is o nthe driver's side, and ties into the fuse box, battery, etc. A standalone fuse panel was added for all interior accessories (see first page.)
I relocated alot of sensors and harnesses where I could, basically rewired the entire engine bay. As you can see, it's MUCH cleaner now. Trans area:
Oil temp sensor:
Here the coolant sensors are not finished yet, but you can see the "throttle body" loom with the IAC motor wiring and the TPS.
So, because the coils sit so close to the exhaust manifold, I used some DEI heat reflective tape just in case.
The turbo manifold and downpipe on and tight:
With a LOT more s*** bolted up now, I was on a roll and didn't stop to take pics. Intake mani on, wires run (I'm STILL not happy with the coil wires. I'll either redo them or make a shield to hide them.) Rad in, fuel rail on, more s*** plugged in...
The injector wires come up through the middle of the manifold, and split out, instead of running the length of the VC like stock. VERY clean and tidy. You hardly notice them anymore.
Fuel rail plumbed, rad overflow in, intake pipes on, electrics done, turbo oil feed run, battery in... WHEW! What a task all this was!
Like I said, rather than cuto ver the valve cover, the sensors are now run fro mthe passenger side, and everything connects at that one corner. Very neat and tidy:
Another shot of the injector wiring - or lack of it!
So, what's left? Well, I have a few more intercooler pipes to tighten up, then a few misc. things to bolt on, finish plumb the PCV system, bleed clutch, filld liquids, etc. Shouldn't take too long.
The goal is to turn the key tomorrow!
I have all fluids ready to go, a few oil filters, etc. I'm a little concernicus about all the changes I've made as far as the Haltech is concerned, getting it started might be a little tricky. That combined with my new IAC motor, the agressive cams, everything. I hope all goes well and that there are no leaks!
Finished the oil system, got everything plumbed and tightened down. Here's a shot of the bypass return ot the windage tray:
Up the side of the engine. It looks much closer than it actually is, there is a good 2.5" between the hose and the belt.
So, I suppose now is as good a time as any to finally take the wraps off my complete rewire, and explain it a little bit. There is one main "Trunk" line, with 3 main "branches" off of it. The main trunk runs left to right, along the firewall. One branch is on the passenger side, and includes the cam sensor, crank sensor, EGT probe, fuel pressure sender (these all terminate at the engine) and then continues on to the front bumper area housing the A/C clutch wire, methanol pump wiring, etc.
What I call the "center branch" gomes out of the trunk directly behind the engine. This is a busy branch containing wiring for the injectors, coils, transmission, IAC, TPS, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp (stock, autometer, and Haltech) haltech IAT, wideband and narrowband, etc. The intent of having it come out directly behind the engine was to keep everything hidden, and as you'll see I think it was a success. The third branch is o nthe driver's side, and ties into the fuse box, battery, etc. A standalone fuse panel was added for all interior accessories (see first page.)
I relocated alot of sensors and harnesses where I could, basically rewired the entire engine bay. As you can see, it's MUCH cleaner now. Trans area:
Oil temp sensor:
Here the coolant sensors are not finished yet, but you can see the "throttle body" loom with the IAC motor wiring and the TPS.
So, because the coils sit so close to the exhaust manifold, I used some DEI heat reflective tape just in case.
The turbo manifold and downpipe on and tight:
With a LOT more s*** bolted up now, I was on a roll and didn't stop to take pics. Intake mani on, wires run (I'm STILL not happy with the coil wires. I'll either redo them or make a shield to hide them.) Rad in, fuel rail on, more s*** plugged in...
The injector wires come up through the middle of the manifold, and split out, instead of running the length of the VC like stock. VERY clean and tidy. You hardly notice them anymore.
Fuel rail plumbed, rad overflow in, intake pipes on, electrics done, turbo oil feed run, battery in... WHEW! What a task all this was!
Like I said, rather than cuto ver the valve cover, the sensors are now run fro mthe passenger side, and everything connects at that one corner. Very neat and tidy:
Another shot of the injector wiring - or lack of it!
So, what's left? Well, I have a few more intercooler pipes to tighten up, then a few misc. things to bolt on, finish plumb the PCV system, bleed clutch, filld liquids, etc. Shouldn't take too long.
The goal is to turn the key tomorrow!
I have all fluids ready to go, a few oil filters, etc. I'm a little concernicus about all the changes I've made as far as the Haltech is concerned, getting it started might be a little tricky. That combined with my new IAC motor, the agressive cams, everything. I hope all goes well and that there are no leaks!
thepope540
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Yellow Speed - Sold, Spicy - Sold, #639 Black Mica
Looks good! Best of luck on the first start.
Spiced MSP
Member
- :
- 2016 Peterbilt 579
+1
sderrickson
Member
- :
- 2002 protege es
Looks amazing maxx. Good luck tomorrow hopefully you dont hit any snags
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Thanks guys. I've done this all before, but I'm still a bit nervous. What if I forgot to tighten a bolt somewhere? What if I end up with a leak?
s*** like that keeps going through my head. Dont' forget this is the culmination of more than 2 years work on this car.
s*** like that keeps going through my head. Dont' forget this is the culmination of more than 2 years work on this car.
95blkprobe
Member
- :
- 95 Blk Probe/ 02 Blk Mica P5
good luck maxx, looking forward to good news tomorrow
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
IT'S ALIVE!
Pics and details to come in the following days.
Pics and details to come in the following days.
bullshark524
Member
- :
- 2000 mazda protege es soon to be 2000 mazda protege klze
dude i got real excited when i saw you posted here and i guess i had good reason. i cant wait for some videos
SuperProtege5
Member
- :
- 2004 Mazda 3 2.3
Congrats on the 2+ years of hard work and dedication finally paying off. No surprise your attention to detail allowed everything to run properly on start-up. Again congratulations!
