Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

[Lewis7789]

Cool beans.

I took some pics today of stuff for you guys to double check before I try to fire this thing up. Again, I just don't want to fry anything, this swap has already cost a butt-load of cash. heh-heh

Here are some plugs I don't know what are. I know one is the coolant temp sensor, which I ran from the Portege coolant location. But I'm not sure what the little guy is for. Perhaps something that got snipped from the Milly harness. More research. And I don't seem to have a crank sensor... ???

Here are my grounds. Are these locations okay?

My knock sensor doesn't connect either. The motor only has one wire and the Milly plug has two. More research.

Here's the ground clip that is broken. Should I snip the wires and tie them all together and ground them to the chassis?

Here's the fuse block we tapped into. I think the spare two wires are to the tranny, but with an automatic harness I don't think they are needed. More research... But everything will be soldered and wrapped in wire loom and electrical tape when I go through and trim off all the sensors I don't need when the motor is running.

Here's the disty with this little bugger that was broken during shipping. I was hoping to just re-solder it to the metal clip and be okay. Or else I can swap it out for the spare KL47 disty I got from Jon.

The OBX exhaust bolts up okay, but the hangers need to be heated up and bent towards the Protege urethane hangers more.

The exhaust is about 6" too short to mate up with the rest of the midpipe. And the Summit clamps I had used for the catylitic converter were leaking so I'd rather not use those again. But if I do, I'll seal them with hightemp silicone.

Grounds from the tranny plug.

 

[PrinceValorum]

You should be a hand model, Ladyhands.

 

[HKPRO5]

Ladyhands for sure. As for your grounds you are better off grounding them to the chassis. (thats what i belive)

 

[Joost27]

the sensor next to the coolant temp sensor is a coolant temp switch for either fans or for the ecu. Atleast the KL36 and Kl55 ecus lower the rev limit when the car is not fully up to temp.

as for the broken ground clip, just snip and terminate the wires by stripping them, twisting them together and using a ring terminal big enough for them and has an opening for a bolt on the chassis.

No idea on the knock sensor though. You may have to buy a knock sensor for a 95 millenia, kinda crappy.

 

[Salmon_Rob]

I came for info on the swap. I stayed for the lady hands

 

[hat1018]

^ weird, funny but weird. Made me lol.

 

[princess peach]

oh I'm all about the lady hands, other wise I wouldn't talk to Evan...

 

[hat1018]

LOL! still LOL!

 

[THE Phen]

I came for info on the swap. I stayed for the lady hands

As long as they're truly not on a lady right?

 

[Salmon_Rob]

Y u jealous bro ;-)

 

[Lewis7789]

Jethuth Chritht...

thanks for the info, Cres and Justin. I'll take a peek at the KL's at Pull-a-Part this week and might snag one of those. Hey Wes, want a free dinner?

 

[jonridinhi]

knock sensor on the milly is the one we spliced and put into prd's probe. It is the same as his probe if that helps at all.

 

[Lewis7789]

Do you remember if it was a 2 wire sensor? It looks like the one on the motor is only 1 wire. Will it run without the knock sensor? Probably not, huh. Balls, I just realized I have to remove the intake manifold to swap the knock sensor.

 

[jonridinhi]

Bad news.... it was 2 wire. It is one wire but it is a single core and has the ground as a wrap like the co-ax cable. You may be able to splice conectors but it is a PIA. To swap the sensor, you need to pull the IM (upper and lower) mani and the coolant tube. It sucks....

 

[Lewis7789]

Hmmm. Or since I have the sensor plug from the partial JDM harness I wonder if I can use that and just see if there is shielding I can ground. Buying a new sensor for $120 and installing it would be a b****. Damn JDM Millennia motor.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I don't see why it wouldn't run without a knock sensor, it won't run well (ie. it won't give you the maximum possible ignition advance) but it'll run.

 

[Lewis7789]

"KL pin 4I is L/R (constant power) to P5 constant power (pin # 55) - YES, BOTH OF THESE GO DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY. PIN 55 FROM THE P5 SHOULD ALREADY BE CONNECTED.

KL pin 4A is B/R (to chassis ground) to P5 pin 51- THIS ONE SHOULD ALREADY BE GROUNDED FROM THE FACTORY ON THE P5 END

KL pin 4B is R/B (power) to jump to P5 pin 71 is W/B (power) - YES"


Just double checked the connections with Pablo. I just want to make sure I've got everything sorted before cutting/splicing anything. You guys probably know how anal I am by now. heh-heh

I'm having some trouble finding the P5 ignition swith start wire. I know KL pin #1C but not sure which wire to tap into for the P5 harness.

And does anyone want to help out with my digital tach converter?

 

[PrinceValorum]

Car runnin yet?

 

[Lewis7789]

Yeah. Idles perfect and everything. Just got it dyno'ed too, 375whp.

Tomorrow is more wrenching/wiring. I ran to Lowes, and Autozone for parts after work. I'll update this thread tomorrow night.

 

[PrinceValorum]

Yeah. Idles perfect and everything. Just got it dyno'ed too, 375whp.

That's what I like to hear! (2thumbs)