Help ms3 won't start!!!

mazda_dan

Member
:
2008.5 mazdaspeed 3
I store my ms3 for the winter and I wanted to take it out yesterday but it wouldn't start. I almost certain is ha something to do with my anti theft system or my ecu. A few days ago I replaced my turbo Inlet so I took my battery and ecu out of the car. I'm pretty sure that the reason of my no start issue is that I took out my computer/ ecu. I can't bring mycar to the dealer either because my Cobb ap is still installed and that would void my warranty. Plz help.
 
Your battery is probably dead if it's been sitting for months. Get a new one or one that is known to still work
 
I'm pretty sure that my battery is not dead because my lights work and my high beams and my radio works also.
 
ah, lights etc is on secondary part of the battery...you need enough juice to get the car to crank over...hence the name cold cranking amps.??
 
Well I tried boosting my car and that didn't work and I also tried numerous times to uninstall my Cobb ap and that also doesn't work I think because the Cobb ap cannot communicate with the ecu somehow. But I will try to charge the battery fully with a charger and I'm also going to try putting the key in the on position for like fifteen minutes or so that works on a few other vehicles to reset the key fob or something.
 
How did you swap Turbo Inlets? Did you disconnect the two quick disconnects for the ECU before pulling the battery? This will mess with programming if done this way. Ive had to reprogram cars from the very first point through forced data entry (As Built Data) due to this type of situation. Sounds like Security is locking you out somewhere, as it may not recognize the key in the ignition.

Can you explain what youve done prior step by step?
 
Call cob support? I would imagine they could work something out for you, just tellt them hypertech ref lashes for free and see if that gets you anywhere
 
I'm almost certain the battery was out first and then I disconnected the two connections out of the ecu. And that's what I'm am thinking to that the security is not letting me start up it let's me turn the key to accessory and I can listen to the radio and turn my lights on it just doesn't allow me to start up.
 
I disconnected the battery and pulled the plugs and didn't have that problem, I would think it would be safer to do it that way as opposed to pulling them with power running through the cables. Do you have to be somewhere right now? I would wait before doing anything else so you can talk to cobb and see if they have any ideas.
 
Nope I don't have to be anywhere my car is stilloff insurance for the winter anyways I just want it fixed but ya I will call Cobb tomorrow and hopefully they know what the problem is.
 
I disconnected the battery and pulled the plugs and didn't have that problem, I would think it would be safer to do it that way as opposed to pulling them with power running through the cables.

How did you swap Turbo Inlets? Did you disconnect the two quick disconnects for the ECU before pulling the battery? This will mess with programming if done this way.

..........(detect)
 
As of right now I think my only option is getting my car towed to the dealer to get the ecu reflected to stock and hope that they don't see that I have my Cobb ap installed. But if the reflash my ecu i don't know if my Cobb ap will be unmarried to my car successfully I'm hoping to sell the AP.
 
Have you thought of sending the ecu to cobbto have them check it out and fix it. Hypertech fixed mine for free, and I bought my tuner used, so check it out you just pay postage.
 
You're better off trying to send to COBB and see if they can fix rather than the dealer. The dealer will most likely know you have a modified map in there and will probably void your warranty. Maybe not.
 
does it make any noise when you try to start it? Start with basics. 1.) do you have atleast 12.4v available at the battery? 2.) does the starter solenoid click? 3.) does the engine turn over?

many times people over look the basics because their so focused on one thing and so sure it's something when it could be something else completely.
 
+1 ^.

Don't mess with the ECU, AP or programming until you first determine the condition of the battery. Just pull the battery and take it to an auto parts store and have it tested. As stated in an earlier post, it can operate the radio, headlights and all sorts of accessories and not have enough amperage to turn over the starter. I have a dedicated battery load tester. Most guys with a simple battery charger do not have that capability, but any auto parts store will.

Remember that your car worked perfectly when you last turned the engine off for winter storage. It's hard for me to believe that the ECU or your AP tune somehow changed during the period of dormancy.

Pull the battery and get it tested. If it is o.k. but needs a fast high amperage charge or a long trickle charge to be optimized, take care of that. Then and only then, if the problem is still there, explore what else could have happened during storage. Just one opinion.
 
Last edited:
Ya I called a number of times and they put me on hold everytime and I also emailed Cobb tech support three days ago and I'm still awaiting a reply. I think I'm just gonna get it towed to a dealer.
 
it is not uncommon for businesses to place callers on hold...at times, the wait can be more than 10 whole minutes...haha.
 
Back