I want to upgrade to FMIC, from stock. I'd like some advice/input

Alright. I think I'll just go with CS (used, or new if I can't find used) and be done with it.

Now, looking at CS order page, I see some options I need clarified:

1: "Add BOV flange (HKS or Greddy):

- If I'm not mistaken, stock setup has a Greddy BOV. If so, then I should be going for the Greddy BOV Flange option. Correct?

- Why is there a no-flange option as well? A system with no BPV; how does that work? - I don't really need to know this right now. I'm just curious.
 
no-flange im guessing is cheaper. you can weld your own on if you dont like their location, or if you want to use an alternate flange for the BOV.

stock, we have a bypass valve... its a 5/8" nipple on your hot pipe. you wont be able to reuse your bypass unless you get another 5/8" nipple welded on, and if youre upgrading your intercooler, you should do the BOV as well... the OEM BPV is undersized. id suggest an HKS flange since those valves are stupid easy to find used, and an older V1 should be like 75-90 bucks. used, greddy valves are hella expensive by comparison.

and the corksport should be good for anything shy of 450-500whp.
 
Alright. I think I'll just go with CS (used, or new if I can't find used) and be done with it.

Now, looking at CS order page, I see some options I need clarified:

1: "Add BOV flange (HKS or Greddy):

- If I'm not mistaken, stock setup has a Greddy BOV. If so, then I should be going for the Greddy BOV Flange option. Correct?

- Why is there a no-flange option as well? A system with no BPV; how does that work? - I don't really need to know this right now. I'm just curious.

I have this kit, you have the option to add a BOV flange if you want to use an aftermarket BOV. If you plan on using the stock BPV, get the no flange option and it will come with a fitting on the hot pipe for the stock BPV. I have a pic uploaded of my setup. I also have a HKS BOV but I added that later on. Any questions, let me know
 

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i saw some one dont remember who it was.. mounted the inter cooler then put silicone 90 in to the radiator support.. kinda like a turbo life/perrin.. i figure if some one does it like that the pipes might work for them. lil mod..
 
I don't suppose you have a higher res picture and with flash?

Sorry about that. I was viewing your picture on a crappy monitor. Viewing it elsewhere now, I see more detail.

Thanks, though

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Now I think I need to tack a step back.

I'm going to take a picture of my current setup, and post it, with some new questions.
 
i saw some one dont remember who it was.. mounted the inter cooler then put silicone 90 in to the radiator support.. kinda like a turbo life/perrin.. i figure if some one does it like that the pipes might work for them. lil mod..

This is my plan for next spring if I still have the car. Should loose another 7 inches or so that way. totalling just over 20" of pipe lose on the hot pipe!!
 
I have this kit, you have the option to add a BOV flange if you want to use an aftermarket BOV. If you plan on using the stock BPV, get the no flange option and it will come with a fitting on the hot pipe for the stock BPV. I have a pic uploaded of my setup. I also have a HKS BOV but I added that later on. Any questions, let me know

Can you elaborate on what's on this picture? I see your HKS BOV flanged to the cold pipe. BOV appears to be also connected to the hot pipe. Isn't a BOV suppose to vent to air? Where's the stock BPV that you mention; or is that what's connected to the hot pipe (and not the BOV)?
 
ok I just installed a custom fmic with a cheap bov that is vta the maf is still on the intake side were it is stock and no recerculation. I have two problems first it wants to stall on me so I am going to relocate the maf after the bov before the tps I hear this helps but the scound problem is my car is blowing rubber conncoters off the pipes like its the cars fking job. Like ever sixth time i boost i hear a pop i loose power it cuts off I stop recconect hose and keep going. now i believe they are tight but the problem keeps jumping around to different connectors plus at idle im running at -19 vacuum i hear it is supose to be between -20 and -23 can somebody please shed some light on this situiation
 
I'm guessing you used worm gear clamps? You need t-bolts, and that will solve your issue with popping couplers. As for the stalling issue, you are correct that the MAF needs to be relocated between the TB and BOV.
 
regular clamps will have a very difficult time holding the pipes together unless you get them super ******* tight, put hairspray on the pipes, and the pipes are beaded. just get t-bolts, theyre designed for this.
 
k i have some t bolts and some worm i didnt know thats what they wur called so thanks for that but both style has come loose do you think i just need to go back over everything and triple check cuz this didnt hapen with the stock smic that had worm gears and can it have something to do with the fact im not recerculating right now
 
no, recirc has nothing to do with it. what are you using for pipes? are they beaded? and you have to get them TIGHT... hairspray will help in a pinch though.
 
most of them are beaded but now that u mention it some ends arnt were iv had to cut do u have an idea how i shud deal with that shud i use eletrical tape or something to make the end rigid
 
shud i take eletrical tape and build a ridge so i can have something to clamp behind there was some eltrical tape on the smic when i got it and i never blew a hose off that
 
no, dont use tape
if you tighten the t bolts down tight enough you shouldnt have any problems, i have pipes with out beaded ends on my car and ive only blown the pipes off once (while using worm gear clamp temporarily) ordered a t bolt and never had a problem since
 
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