What have you done to your P5 today?

fishdonotbounce said:
Alex, even though I'm sure it was meant as sort of a joke, I would save up and go forged if I was you. The winter is coming up and you may as well just wait til it gets nicer outside to install everything. That would give you plenty of time to buy the parts you need to build a forged block on the side and install it come spring. Just my .02.
Click to expand...

Yea, I understand this, but I just don't think that running 6lbs is going to need it being forged...people keep telling me I will want to turn up the boost, but i am satisfied with how the car is already and have been since I have gotten it...I don't drive it fast at all...I feel like there has to be a time when it gets to be enough, and by building up the turbo kit itself and keeping it at the stock boost I don't think I will have the major problems with needing to build the motor since that is an expense I am not willing to put into this car...if the motor blows from this kit, then I can still get 5 or 6 motors for the price I could forge it for...granted if I were going for fast and speed, then I would understand the forging part, but on 6 PSI, I just see think of the mods as supporting mods like you and others were saying that the Speed Proteges NEED to be reliable...
 
You should be fine on stock boost. Didn't know you didn't have plans to take it further in the future. In that case I feel like you're all good to go.
 
Yea, my goal is to make it absolutely as reliable as possible on stock boost...nothing more...I pretty much just want a Mazdaspeed Wagon with as much reliability as possible on the stock motor...
 
ScratchNSniff said:
Simon, I must say...after talking with Ivan and a few others, they made me come to the realization that most of the problems are coming from people who do cheap out and don't buy quality parts at all...a lot of these people are turning up the boost and running on stock tunes...this was originally my plan as well when I first picked up the Speed, just to reuse all the parts and turbo it for cheap, but the more and more I think about it, why??? That is where all these problems are coming from...I want to have the car as reliable as possible with the supporting mods WITHOUT having to forge...the boost won't be turned up, but the setup will be hopefully as reliable as possible...

Turbo Parts So Far
  1. Stainless Oil/Coolant Lines
  2. Short Ram Intake
  3. Boost Gauge
  4. AEM Wideband
  5. SSAFC V2
  6. Turbolife FMIC
  7. Greddy Type S BOV
  8. ATP Wastegate
  9. Steedspeed Exhaust Manifold
  10. All new gaskets
  11. Spare Tapped Oil Pan
  12. Millenia PCV Valve
  13. One Step Colder Plugs

Question is though, to those of you that have turboed the P5, what else would be needed to make this setup even more reliable...what am I missing now from here...

Any help or input would be appreciated...
Click to expand...

you are forgetting the most important mod of them all: the oil system itself. I HIGHLY recommend the DocB treatment. Coated oil pump eliminates cavitation, bypassed internal bypass allows for proper pressure, PRV for adjustability, filter relocation kit for obvious reasons, and run an oil cooler with thermostat. ALL the essentials right there.
 
Do you have a parts list for the Oil System..someone told me you did...forget who...what about the stock MSP Oil Cooler, I have heard good things about it...
 
i would do like some rod bearings and main bearings with ARP hardware, that would be extra piece of mind, especially since these cars spin rod bearings so easy
but besides that, it should be pretty reliable, as long as you/we take your/our time putting the s*** on lol i put the slashes in there cuz it depends on when u want to put the stuff on
cant help you this or next week, but anytime after that i should be free
edit: oh yea, the oil system, forgot about that lol
you could prob ask jagan about that s***, since he has the whole setup on his car...i dont know s*** about that so dont ask me haha
 
Yea, you just let me know when you have time...since I am obviously going to need your help, it is whenever you have time to come and help me...we have plans these next two weekends as well...

As for the rod bearings...not wanting to pull anything motor wise apart...other than taking off and swapping this oil pan...
 
Yea, you just let me know when you have time...since I am obviously going to need your help, it is whenever you have time to come and help me...we have plans these next two weekends as well...

As for the rod bearings...not wanting to pull anything motor wise apart...other than taking off and swapping this oil pan...
 
is it just me or does it seem boosting the stock protege5 motor/forged protege5 motor not worth a damn?

it barely makes 200whp and for a 2.0 that seems weak. i blame ford. lol

i rather do somethingn crazy like swap in a 2.0 sr20det fwd motor if i WAS TO EVER swap a motor into my wagon.
 
Coming from having a 3 Cylinder Geo Metro it is 4x the power, so it is plenty enough for me...not complaining at all here...
 
CheeseHelmet said:
This is all you need :D
uevwX.jpg


I just had to remove the air intake, battery tray and EGR valve to easily get at the rear MM.
Click to expand...

im so doing this soon. buying new mounts from ebay and putting in inserts gonna be vibey!
 
reut1 said:
im so doing this soon. buying new mounts from ebay and putting in inserts gonna be vibey!
Click to expand...

Make sure you use 1/2" sockets/extensions, 3/8" stuff will just snap. When each of those nuts popped for the first time it sounded like a gun going off, all of that instantaneous torque caused the extensions to pop apart. At first I thought I slipped with the breaker bar but sure enough the nut had come loose :S

Also it's important to note that when you're tightening the nuts you need to set your torque wrench an extra 10-20ft.lbs higher to compensate for the loss through the u-joint (this is especially true for the two nuts in back since the angle is so great).
 
CheeseHelmet said:
Make sure you use 1/2" sockets/extensions, 3/8" stuff will just snap. When each of those nuts popped for the first time it sounded like a gun going off, all of that instantaneous torque caused the extensions to pop apart. At first I thought I slipped with the breaker bar but sure enough the nut had come loose :S

Also it's important to note that when you're tightening the nuts you need to set your torque wrench an extra 10-20ft.lbs higher to compensate for the loss through the u-joint (this is especially true for the two nuts in back since the angle is so great).
Click to expand...

so this set up is for those three top bolts that connect the mount to the frame? whats do you use for the bolt connecting mount to motor?
 
slideshow240 said:
is it just me or does it seem boosting the stock protege5 motor/forged protege5 motor not worth a damn?

it barely makes 200whp and for a 2.0 that seems weak. i blame ford. lol.
Click to expand...

*cough* KL swap. *cough* That's what I plan on doing this winter. I'm realistically hoping for 170whp with standard bolt ons and it will remain reliable. :)
 
Not sure yet, most likely. T'would be nice to go ZE but I'm just beginning to gather parts and doing tons of research. It's all in my build thread. I don't mean to stray off topic.
 
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