Oil leak in IC piping

few things it could be. It could be as simple as a PCV valve needing to be upgraded to the Millenia s one or it could be a bad seal in the turbo.
I would install a PCV valve since they are cheap and maybe even run an oil catch can which is my next step as well.
 
few things it could be. It could be as simple as a PCV valve needing to be upgraded to the Millenia s one or it could be a bad seal in the turbo.
I would install a PCV valve since they are cheap and maybe even run an oil catch can which is my next step as well.

But I don't see any oil from charge pipe? Only on ic piping ..Also I noticed that my filter is soaking oil wet...do you think is definitely a bad seal?
 
Where's the oil feed coming from?
To much oil pressure maybe?

its coming from sandwich adapter and I noticed it was leaking oil too. It comes with 2 o-ring but it doesn't hold up. I guess I need to get the prosport. Is it possible of the kink I had in my oil drain. I probably need to upgrade for braided lines....
 
Too much oil pressure and improper oil return is possibly your problem

How can I control the oil pressure from adapter? Yeah I just follow the parts listed on the turbo build, I probably use a oil drain braided lines for less problem.
 
If it's a pressure issue run an oil line restrictor found on ATP's site. Also per our PMs you might be running too light an oil I would go a little heavier and see if that doesn't help. The turbo heats up and breaks down oil much faster then an NA application. Something to consider.
 
If it's a pressure issue run an oil line restrictor found on ATP's site. Also per our PMs you might be running too light an oil I would go a little heavier and see if that doesn't help. The turbo heats up and breaks down oil much faster then an NA application. Something to consider.

so what run 10-30?
 
Never use thinner than 10-W30.

agreed..
and stick to blended or full synthetic, tp help with the break down issues.

So it seems we have a list for you to start at.
1. fix the kink in the return line ASAP!!!!!
2. oil change with thicker better oil
3. upgraded PCV
4. see if that fixes your issues
in not
5. oil line restrictor (depending on whether you turbo has one built in or not)
6. oil catch can
7. change center section on turbo/replace turbo/ upgrade to a gt28RS which is rebuildable
 
agreed..
and stick to blended or full synthetic, tp help with the break down issues.

So it seems we have a list for you to start at.
1. fix the kink in the return line ASAP!!!!!
2. oil change with thicker better oil
3. upgraded PCV
4. see if that fixes your issues
in not
5. oil line restrictor (depending on whether you turbo has one built in or not)
6. oil catch can
7. change center section on turbo/replace turbo/ upgrade to a gt28RS which is rebuildable

If you use a high quality oil like Redline, you can use 5w30
 
So I'm guessing need to replace my drain using braided lines, PCV valve from "milenia", add catch can and replace turbo? Does Mobil 1 5W30 is ok? I think the stock turbo has restrictor already?
 
All of the smaller Garrett Ballbearing turbos have oil inlet restrictors built in. The materials manager at my shop says you shouldn't ever need a restrictor unless your planning to put the oil psi up above 80 or so. If the drain is blocked, kinked, or has loops or uphills in it the turbo would leak from both seals. the fact that the air cleaner has oil all over it says to me that the leak is external and that you should check and see if it is squirting from the feed or drain fittings attached to the turbo.

Like was said earlier. Find the problem. If you don't find out where the oil is coming from throwing solutions at it will result in nothing. I have guys bringing in turbos for us to fix all the time and there's nothing wrong with them, it's a problem they have in the engine bay.

As for the boost issue, you may have a hole in a coupler, blown a pipe completely, your turbo may have been damaged from your oil drain issue and the impellers may have contacted the housings. IF you try the other stuff and it doesnt work, take the turbo off and look at it. It's pretty easy to tell if it's wrecked or not.
 
Here's some pics that I took.....Do you think I can still save the turbo by replacing the lines??? Or definitely need a new one?? coz its broken seal??
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3333.webp
    IMG_3333.webp
    206.6 KB · Views: 155
  • IMG_3349.webp
    IMG_3349.webp
    247.8 KB · Views: 152
  • IMG_3346.webp
    IMG_3346.webp
    171.5 KB · Views: 143
  • IMG_3350.webp
    IMG_3350.webp
    292 KB · Views: 155
  • IMG_3352.webp
    IMG_3352.webp
    246.7 KB · Views: 150
That drain looks like absolute hell. Either get a different fitting in your oil pan or make that line more of a straight shot to the turbo. A 90DEG fitting on the pan might help and definetly get a hose that is a lot less likely to flex or bend like that. It looks like your drain also goes almost horizontal. Try to shorten it up if you can so it can "drain". There is no oil pressure on that side of the turbo. Gravity does the work so if oil can't flow down, that's real bad.

As for the seals, they do not break. They wear out. They have almost the same concept as a piston ring. Shape of a C... when they go in the hole they seal the two ends of the C almost touch. Fix the drain, run it and then see if it still leaks.

To check the turbo, put two fingers in the air inlet side of it, then see if you can make the impeller touch the housing. If no scraping noise, then your turbo should be ok to use still. It's pretty hard to wreck the ball bearings unless you have absolutely no oil.
 
Last edited:
That drain looks like absolute hell. Either get a different fitting in your oil pan or make that line more of a straight shot to the turbo. A 90DEG fitting on the pan might help and definetly get a hose that is a lot less likely to flex or bend like that. It looks like your drain also goes almost horizontal. Try to shorten it up if you can so it can "drain". There is no oil pressure on that side of the turbo. Gravity does the work so if oil can't flow down, that's real bad.

As for the seals, they do not break. They wear out. They have almost the same concept as a piston ring. Shape of a C... when they go in the hole they seal the two ends of the C almost touch. Fix the drain, run it and then see if it still leaks.

To check the turbo, put two fingers in the air inlet side of it, then see if you can make the impeller touch the housing. If no scraping noise, then your turbo should be ok to use still. It's pretty hard to wreck the ball bearings unless you have absolutely no oil.

Appreciated your response..I will do that and I'll keep you posted thanks again..also I noticed that I have my valve cover tube to charge pipe do you think that causes to leak in the first place? I already put a breather and covered the charge pipe nipple...
 
Back