What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
NocturnalSpeed
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege
Hey guys, got around to installing my ForceFed Cluster Gauge Pod and AEM Gauges. Here's a preview, and more pictures in my build thread...
Click and scroll down for more pics ----> Nocturnal Build Thread
Click and scroll down for more pics ----> Nocturnal Build Thread
Go from Vac block, or IM to NO, then COM to WGA. NC can stay open or leave it plugged, doesnt matter really. You really want the WG and BOV/BPV on its own vac source to make sure you get a clean signal. I wouldnt share it with anything else. Stock you have a line on the Intake Mani for the stock BPV and WG so use that unless you have a vac block, then run each line to each piece.
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Hey guys, got around to installing my ForceFed Cluster Gauge Pod and AEM Gauges. Here's a preview, and more pictures in my build thread...
Click and scroll down for more pics ----> Nocturnal Build Thread
Lookin good!
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Excellent that's exactly how I did it, but I always like to double check things. Thank you sir!
Installed new engine, got the car fired up... Found a pin-hole leak in the front of the radiator, between the radiator and the condenser. As the car warmed up however the leak seemed to stop. I have to get a new radiator cap and see what happens under pressure. New engine seemed to run fine, a little lumpy at idle, but holding vacuum at -21. Could just be old gas, as the car last ran at least a year ago.
No prob.
Outlawstar98
Member
- :
- 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege / 2013 BRZ
Installed Intake mani
Installed EGR Valve
Installed The part of the water system on the left of the block
Installed the TB.
Installed EGR Valve
Installed The part of the water system on the left of the block
Installed the TB.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I changed the coolant temp sensor, installed a breather for the hose that runs off the vc to the intake, installed my old K&N filter, cleaned the MAF, and replaced another coil pack and it still runs like s*** once it's warmed up. Feels like it's a miss but it only happens when it's warmed up and under boost, above 3500 rpm. Anything more than 1/4 throttle and it misses and bucks and doesn't go anywhere. If you baby it, the car will drive but barely try to accelerate and it misses and bogs. It runs fine when cold though.
Coilpacks.
Replace the coilpacks, wires & plugs, if you haven't already that is...
03.5BlueMSP
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP
pics of the painted calipers.
comments?
also did a royal purple oil change.
comments?
also did a royal purple oil change.
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i like the dual color combo with the blue/silver.
i went to seafoam the car, but my 3 yearold nephew was being "funny" and swung his play bat and knocked the can out of my hand... was a good hit flew almost 15 ft away.... and is now empty! .. oh well.. next time lol
i went to seafoam the car, but my 3 yearold nephew was being "funny" and swung his play bat and knocked the can out of my hand... was a good hit flew almost 15 ft away.... and is now empty! .. oh well.. next time lol
03.5BlueMSP
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP
lol those sea-foam cans are like $9, exspensive crap really.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
It's not coils i've already replaced them several times, now there are two good new coils and brand new wires and correctly gapped NGK ZFR6F-11. New MilleniaS PCV, cleaned MAF and no idea what the problem is. Could be the stock WGA, tried to blow into the vac line but couldn't but I'm not ruling it out. Could be a bad MAF, could be a fuel pressure issue or vac leak, but it runs perfect when it's cold, it boosts fine and it runs really smooth. Its like the car is heatsoaked but it has to be more than just heatsoak, it feels like a miss but it hasn't thrown a code for a couple days. The two codes I pulled were a P0302, then I messed with the coils which resulted in a P0304, then I put known good coils and got another P0304 and it hasn't come back since.
when the car is below normal operating temp itn uses a diffrerent set of fuel tables and inputs so its hard to use that as a guide for whats wrong.
what mods you have and whats it doing? ill see if i can help. also, do you have a boost gauge to see if its a vac leak?
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Bone stock, no boost gauge. Idle is smooth and around 750 rpm so if it's a vac leak it's a small one. When it's warmed up and in open loop (or closed, whichever) is when it stumbles. I just cleaned the EGR and no dice, it runs the same. It's only under boost and gets worse as the car gets hotter.
dacquesta1
Member
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- 2000 Mazda Protege ES
got the block and trans in the car, spent a few hours ******* around with the damn mounts. had to do some fabrication but i got it in. gotta finish cutting off the spindle nut on the passenger side. 200k has it seized. bolting the head on tomorrow morning. hopefully should be starting her up tomorrow.
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
I don't mean to s*** on your parade, but upgrading the rears is pointless unless you're building a track car, and getting the E-brake to work will be more of a pain than it would be worth if the upgrade WAS useful.
