Timing Mod?

05maz3subd

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Mazda 3 lava orange hb manual
Has anyone done the timing mod, and what exactly do you do, all it says is use 91 gas in the how to thread?
 
Just did it. Its super easy. you just loosen two bolts and push the plastic thing down and tighten them back up. its self explanatory once you get the shields off and look at the thing. the only hard part is getting your socket wrench on the lower of the two nuts. you have to push the timing belt aside while loosening/tightening. its kind of a pain in the rear.
 
Just did it. Its super easy. you just loosen two bolts and push the plastic thing down and tighten them back up. its self explanatory once you get the shields off and look at the thing. the only hard part is getting your socket wrench on the lower of the two nuts. you have to push the timing belt aside while loosening/tightening. its kind of a pain in the rear.



can you more throughly explain this, and is this only for turbod 3's or n/a too?
 
It's for N/A. Its self explanatory man. just turn the wheel to the right. take off the splash guards. loosen the two bolts on the little black plastic piece sitting behind the timing belt. hold it all the way down with your finger while re-tightening the two bolts. and thats it. don't over think it.
 
i did this as well and it works awsome i belive some one had a link to how to on this timing mod, i also belive their is a how to vid on utube hope this helps
 
are there any power gains?

and dam i just was doing some wire tuckin today,, wish i knew it was that easy, you know the wire the runs from right bottom to left top, well it is now inside the intake manifold, and some other wires are tucked under the TB and around the back side, ill get some pics

a. the gas is cleaner, b. yes it does boost my power. c. ive talked to 5 different mechanics that said use 92-3 because it spots engine sludge and it keeps it cleaner for a better long life, one guy said he wonders why they ever sell 87 anymore cuz its got the same rating as diesel and its almost not worth it. not trying to be a dick but i did my research
 
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Well believe what you want to, but using 93 in an engine designed to run on 87 is just wasting your money and by allowing more unburned fuel to pass into the exhaust system, burning up the catalytic converter that much quicker.
Only if you notice a lot of pinging, not just a little on occasion, should you use higher octane fuel in a car not designed to use it. It's hard on the emission systems and you will pay for it in the long run.

Because of the heat down here in the summer, I do occasionally put in about 3/4 tank of 89 on top of the 87 that's left, which barely raises the overall octane in my tank, but it seems to help combat the affects of the hot, heavy air.




Exactly. Higher compression= higher heat = higher octane to counteract pre-ignition or pinging, otherwise that extra bit of octane will do nothing but go into your exhaust system and your money up in catalyzed, converted smoke. Which as I'd said before requires the CC to work harder at converting the excess hydrocarbon thus shortening it's life. Like having it do 75k miles worth of the work it would normally do in only 50k.
Would you like to lift 100 lbs of material all day long when only 50 at a time was required? You'd burn out faster too.

 
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I don't remember Monzta's post ever suggesting the use of higher octane after the mod. And even if it did, that wouldn't make it right.
General rule of thumb, and common knowledge dictates: If the car pings excessively use higher octane. If it pings only while under a heavy load, for short periods of time or not at all, save you money and your car.
This is NOT a new or difficult idea to grasp people. It's been this way for 30 yrs now... and that's just how long I'VE known about it.

Yeah, I've done it too, a long time ago, as well as the grounded TB/grounded fuel rail mods. They don't hurt anything so I leave them as they are. And perhaps just because the butt dyno doesn't notice them, or much change, there might actually be a slight advantage to having them vs. not having them.
At least in my case they didn't cost me anything but time. I had the wire and connectors already on-hand, not that you really NEED 10ga wire to do a low voltage/low (no?) current ground.

I say, if it's free and you want to try it, try it!! You have nothing to lose but a little time and you stand everything to gain?

Again I say, I think running straight 89 all the time if you don't need it is still a waste of money.
Mine runs fine w/the adv timing mod and on 87... except as I'd said, in really hot weather, and my very nonscientific mix solves that problem nicely too.

 
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sure. i dont think its a waste of money though. the 5 extra cents a gallon you spend, you make up for in mileage; like i said.
 
To the OP many people have done this mod and there are small gains from it. Documentation over conversation. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123634585

Whether it is worth it or not is up to you. Its a free mod. You will not recieve the same amount of gains as you would see with a CAI or header. As for running a higher octane with the Adv timing is good but it isn't required. Many have done this mod and still is running 87. I'm not sure whether or not the 3is can do this mod.
 
That's excellent you went through a course on timing engine.*virtual cookie* (nobody)

So you claim your stating facts without any R&D on the mod and Monzta was making stuff up even though he did test, research and invested dyno time showing the difference between the two.(stfu)

Good point! Now what do I do? If it is free, do it! You just might like it. Hell your engine just might like it. Every single engine produced no matter what the displacement will put out different power/torque numbers give or take a few. Power, or mileage a gain eaither way is good right?
 
Good point! Now what do I do? If it is free, do it! You just might like it. Hell your engine just might like it. Every single engine produced no matter what the displacement will put out different power/torque numbers give or take a few. Power, or mileage a gain eaither way is good right?

If you are interested in trying the mod out give it a shot but don't expect alot from it. You may or may not notice a difference. If you are really interested in improving the performance of your 3 invest in other power mods or suspension mods. Intake, header, exhaust, lowering springs, coilovers, stiffer mounts, etc..etc. (drive2)
 

OK, I believe you. And I am in total agreement of the two statements you made that I highlighted.
No matter what I have done (modding) to mine, the mileage has remained relatively stable.


also a major factor that plays into fact is if you drive super conservative, like not going above 3000 rpms and then shifting and going into neutral when going down hills, basically eco friendly, i did 2 full tanks, the first was a test to see how much it uses when i drive heavy and that was 19-21 major city and minor highway, now going with the eco friendly method i got about 32 same with major city and low highway. also i have more to speculate about the gas thing i filled up with 87 and drove hard all the way from allentown pa to south jersey to a raceway, gps said it would take 3 hours 12 minutes and we did a cruise down with 15 cars we made it in 1 hour 40 minutes, i used 1/2 tank. we took the same route home i used 93 and it took the same amount of time to get home but i only use a 1/4 tank, what would cause this, and yes the avg speed limit was closer to 85-100, 95% of the way, heavy driving
 
Ok. What is the final word? gain or not?

If you are interested in trying the mod out give it a shot but don't expect alot from it. You may or may not notice a difference. If you are really interested in improving the performance of your 3 invest in other power mods or suspension mods. Intake, header, exhaust, lowering springs, coilovers, stiffer mounts, etc..etc. (drive2)

The way i see it you might as well do it... its free, it takes like what 10 mins? and it will probably end up supporting other mods that you do.

say you went to a dyno and you got 149whp. that would be cool but its not 150. maybe this could bump you up just enough to get you that 150whp.

thats about the difference the timing mod will give you.
 
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changed my password, long story short dont leave your login info laying around so your tard brother can make you look line an @$$ online.

The statement about to be made is by the real "wanna3": CKP is the only input to the pcm that determines ignition timing (as you all know), advanced timing is achieved by moving the sensor down and is suggested to use a higher octane in order to reduce pinging and improve performance.....so pretty much what "TheBean" and Monza has stated...god how i wish i could turn back time

You mean all this time it was your little brother posting?

Well, if you mean what you said, I do have the ability to prune the thread y'know.

 
if you would please, my brother says he would like to apologize and i put all my personal info somewhere he cant look, its kinda my fault as well though, o well lesson learned.

For the record i like to state that this mod does work and req a little higher octane in 6 weeks i will have the dyno to prove it (assuming nothing breaks in between that time)
 

DayEM!!! All the crap I pruned reduced this thread from 5 pages down to 2!!! :D

Now, Wanna, Your brother has been a baaaaadddd-boy. Go spank him for all the time and effort we all put into this thread.

 
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