Rebuilding engien

[driveability]

"2000 626 2.5 V6"
I bought a CD via Ebay that covers the 626, well There's no reference to the lower end of the engine, nothing.
No torque specs for the rods, crank/cradle
I guess you guys don't often get into this type of repair but maybe someone would have the specs handy ???
I will search the web but so far no luck, The Chilton manual is worthless as well.
This is such a cool engine I really want to get her going !

 

[JKPgt96]

Are you sure that CD is for a 2000? It needs to be for a 1998+ because that is a Solid Lifter, Coilpack car versus the earlier years being disty, HLA car...just a heads up.

 

[driveability]

Are you sure that CD is for a 2000? It needs to be for a 1998+ because that is a Solid Lifter, Coilpack car versus the earlier years being disty, HLA car...just a heads up.

At this point the CD isn't being used as a point of reference.

I am looking for the torque specs for the rods, and crank caps

 

[aceaspade]

engine rebuild

Ok! so I have had my block over bored to 83.5mm, I got gapless second rings and I am building my block back up I got the crank in, torque to spec, and the crank spins freely, all the oil clearances were checked and are within limits. I started to install the pistons one by one and the first time around I had all 4 in and the crank was soooo hard to spin. So I removed the pistons checked everything and realized there were a few errors, FIXED them. so now I installed the #1 piston and tq-ed it down spun the crank a there was a little resistance (normal) installed #2 the piston, about double the resistance was felt (no biggy) but as I spun the crank to check piston movement, there was a knocking sound and the crank would spin 1/2 to 3/4 ways around then stop we thought the oil jet was hitting the piston skirt not the case pulled the pistons out again and could not see anything but the #2 piston crank bearing had radius ride so I realized that the dots on the #2 connecting rod were facing the opposite direction of the #1 piston but the (F) mark for front was facing the correct way after all was said and done I pulled the pistons out before it damaged the cylinder wall but I cant get past 2 cyls installed without it locking up. Is there any advice on the situation? Before you ask, everything is lubed up correctly not too much, not too little; piston ring end gap within limits and ring to piston clearance was good. I have done my homework and research but I cant for the life of me figure out why the pistons are locking up so tight that I cant turn the crank.

 

[aceaspade]

torques

If you call the dealer they can tell you the tq of the bolts. As long as they are the stock bolts, if they are performance bolts i.e. ARP bolts then you should call them directly they will advise you in the TQ requirements and techniques(cabpatch)

 

[JKPgt96]

Why gapless rings? With those gapless second rings in there you motor is going to have so much friction, and will not spin as freely. the second ring is the one of the rings that causes the most friction. I am using a slightly lighter (or softer) ring than the stock ones, because the difference in resistance/friction is night and day. It still holds just the same, but the way the car revs with those rings in comparison to a normal hard/heavy second ring is amazing. with gapless hard second rings, your motor has to be immensely hard to turn over by hand..

 

[aceaspade]

Why gapless rings? With those gapless second rings in there you motor is going to have so much friction, and will not spin as freely. the second ring is the one of the rings that causes the most friction. I am using a slightly lighter (or softer) ring than the stock ones, because the difference in resistance/friction is night and day. It still holds just the same, but the way the car revs with those rings in comparison to a normal hard/heavy second ring is amazing. with gapless hard second rings, your motor has to be immensely hard to turn over by hand..

I went with the gapless second because, I will be boosting it; I want to get about 20 psi, and prevent as much blow back as possible. but the main reason is my buddy did it to his eclipse and he said he noticed a decent throttle response gain (he had other mods as well) and it was the first I have heard of them, and in theory it seemed to make perfect sense to put gapless on it since I was elbow deep in the engine already hahaha.
softer rings do make sense too!! but i would be too worried about blow back, thus creating more gunk in the intake manifold and valve train and then just becomes a recurring cycle. what type of rings did u get?

 

[JKPgt96]

You would make great power on regular rings, gapless rings are really not necessary, you are going to wear the cylinder walls more quickly. You are not going to have a noticeable amount more blow by with softer, gapped rings than you do with gapless hard rings. You are going to have blow by either way, especially if you are not using a vacuum pump to help the rings seal in another direction other than straight out against the cyl. walls..

I got a custom set of rings from wiseco, since they told me that they stopped carrying the softer rings.

 

[aceaspade]

shooot

finally got it back together, right next to my huge mess of tools.

 

[JKPgt96]

Cool!

 

[aceaspade]

I have a set of corksport cams, a j-spec exhaust and i belive a protege 3 intake ( i belive thats the one they sell for the mx-6) and i am trying to crank the car over, but to no resolve i did all the basic things like tdc and lining the cams up with the cyl head surface, but i cant get it to crank over. it shoots fireballs out the exhaust, after talking with some mechanics around here they siad i should degree my cams because they are more aggresive and it might be off a little. so my question is, to what degree shoudl the cams be set to, the manual says nothing about it.

 

[jillyronald]

It is a very good and interesting to know about how to rebuilding engine. Same problem occurs, when I was rebuilding the engine and from this post I solved the problem of rebuilding engine. It is enough and needed information regarding rebuilding engine.