There is now way you car is only.02 sec faster on the flash unless you have something wrong. My car when it the flash was right was WAY faster than stock boost went up super fast, throttle respones was 1000 times better and my 60mph pulls felt way harder, granted I never timed them but just the driving experenece was BETTER. Is you boost running fine where are you peaking?
Hypertech Max Energy Sport CAI Update Now Available!
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There is now way you car is only.02 sec faster on the flash unless you have something wrong. My car when it the flash was right was WAY faster than stock boost went up super fast, throttle respones was 1000 times better and my 60mph pulls felt way harder, granted I never timed them but just the driving experenece was BETTER. Is you boost running fine where are you peaking?
Darth Vader
Member
You're better off timing a speed in one gear. i.e. go 60-120 mph in 4th. There's too many variables involved in a 0-100 run to get repeatable results.
You sure I had some idiot in a BMW 850 in the highway and I was doing 130MPH an just hit 5th.I know my EVO would do 130MPH in 4th and it was only a
5-SPD.. BTW 850 was TOAST.. Loven the flash (cool)
Also get a boost gauge, This should have been your first mod, BTW.
Yes I'm sure. You were in 5th gear since 5th will do 130mph.
The only way to see knock is if you have a data logger or a DashHawk. 50-75 in 3rd may car rips. I was actually surprised last night on HW.. BTW stop running the RPMS to 7k. These turbos start blowing hot air up there. Really try to keep it at 6200-6500 at the most. 7k runs all the time = OH BOY
The 1/4 mile not sure man, If you read the thread on over on the other speed forum ( Maxican ECU) the kids goes from 15.8 to 14.1 1/4 time at the elavation thats really good. With that you should be closer to mid to high 13's I would think. Are you leaking Boost? What spring to you have again ( RED)?
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Just shifted to 5th, BTW..,
If you are running 18PSI and the car is NO faster than stock at 15 PSI then you
probally have knock and the car is pulling timing, What gas do you guys have? =93 OCT??
Yeah whatever. As long you are having fun is what matters.(drive2)
I'm runnin' 93 octane.Just shifted to 5th, BTW..
If you are running 18PSI and the car is NO faster than stock at 15 PSI then you
probally have knock and the car is pulling timing, What gas do you guys have? =93 OCT??
Darth Vader
Member
First of all, you're overrevving the sht out of this engine and, you got upgraded fuel pump internals, right?
Darth Vader
Member
I cut an average 8 tenths off my dragstrip times with this car over last year but, only picked up an average 1.5 mph. Turns out the fuel pump was running way under required pressure at the top end, slowing the car down as the ECU opened the pulsewidths to maintain commanded afr.
You have the same bad pump over there. Some people are lucky with these factory but, most that modify, need to get at this pretty early on.
I have my shift light set at 5400 rpm, on a downpipe, racepipe, CAI, Forge and TIP car, That'll seem low but, I flat shift the car at the track so I need room for the flare. I think part of the key to durability on this motor, when modified, is to not rev it right to the redline.
You have the same bad pump over there. Some people are lucky with these factory but, most that modify, need to get at this pretty early on.
I have my shift light set at 5400 rpm, on a downpipe, racepipe, CAI, Forge and TIP car, That'll seem low but, I flat shift the car at the track so I need room for the flare. I think part of the key to durability on this motor, when modified, is to not rev it right to the redline.
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Nice work Vader, an info the the pump and engines stability. I think along the same lines, As long as my A/F's stay true , I will save for the pump upgrade, $650 is alot for a pump but when put up against 4k for a new motor I think it's well worth it. I also shift right around 6k.
mortimersnerd
Member
Hmmmm. Wonder if lean high RPM operation is part of the reason for the blown DISI motors we've been seeing. Variances in the pump would account for why some folks blow at stock and some never blow despite big mods.
Darth Vader
Member
I'd call negative on that. Most people are datalogging in some way, The ecu fends off the lean mixtures very well. It keeps opening the pulsewidths wider and wider to hit commanded AFR, plus it'll slam the throttle shut if that doesn't work. I never saw AFR being out of whack while this was occurring. Eventually it just became so bad the fuel injectors were probably on nearly all the time and the car started to buck and heave.
Pump internals are a couple hundred bucks. I used PtP. Anybody with a few hand tools and a bench vise can do this job in about an hour.
Pump internals are a couple hundred bucks. I used PtP. Anybody with a few hand tools and a bench vise can do this job in about an hour.
Chris@Hypertech
Member
Nicke,
Thanks for the reports you've been sending back to us.
I was reading through your posts here, and noticed something. Your 60' time is .32 sec slower with the Hypertech tuning. Could that be from more wheelspin? If so, that would account for why you are only .2 sec quicker in your 1/4 mile clockings. If the 60' times were equal, and you add in the .32 sec difference, you would be about .5 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile.
That would figure to be about 13.75 for your 1/4 mile time, which is more in line with what you got on your 0-100 test (13.39) with the Hypertech tuning. Comparing your stock 1/4 mile and 0-100 MPH times shows that you should have been close to 100 MPH at 1/4 mile stock, so your MPH should have been higher at 1/4 mile with the Hypertech also.
Chris@Hypertech
Member
Stamperman,
I think the sensors you're referring to are part of the Dynamic Stability Control System (DSC). The programmer does not defeat these sensors, or any other function of the DSC or TSC.
Chris
Good question, but possible explanation would be that you should also be running close to 18 psi without the flash. Opening up the exhaust raises stock boost levels. Peak64 seems to just have a race pipe. I don't know what other differences the Eurospec model has on either tuning or on the exhaust side. Maybe different mapping in their ECU? Maybe different stock downpipe? Dunno. I think their CBE is different, so changes on the exhaust side ahead of it may produce different changes in flow and boost capabilities.
But all of us running US spec cars with catless dp/rp are or should be seeing 17 or 18 psi on stock tune. My car does. And I know that some guys on stock tune with just a race pipe are getting hard load cut, suggesting that they are getting above 17.5 psi under certain circumstances.
But there are a lot of reasons that a car can operate at the same boost level as stock and get better acceleration with an aftermarket tune. It's not all about boost. It's about the load maps, AFR adjustments, changes to injector pulse parameters, changes in timing advance and many other variables that enter into the tuning process.
But all of us running US spec cars with catless dp/rp are or should be seeing 17 or 18 psi on stock tune. My car does. And I know that some guys on stock tune with just a race pipe are getting hard load cut, suggesting that they are getting above 17.5 psi under certain circumstances.
But there are a lot of reasons that a car can operate at the same boost level as stock and get better acceleration with an aftermarket tune. It's not all about boost. It's about the load maps, AFR adjustments, changes to injector pulse parameters, changes in timing advance and many other variables that enter into the tuning process.
Chris@Hypertech
Member
Yes, when you select the option to remove the 0-60 throttle restriction, the programmer raises the boost cut in 1st and 2nd gear. We also raise the overall boost and load cut limiters, but we don't remove them.
