Good? $405 shipped for new: pads, rotors, shocks

ohioan

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Ms3, silver gt
ALL REAR WORK hawk hps pads, centric rotors, koni (yellow, sport) shocks.

TireRack. I'm going to purchase this, and wanted to know what you foo's think.
 
Fronts don't make as much noise and the shop did say "the last thing you need to worry about is shocks... you NEED the back brakes done asap"
 
i would not change suspension unless i was doing all four corners. your geometry and ride height isn't going to be right.
 
Even with the Koni Sport shocks, it'll be all weird?

I might do it anyway unless I come up with money after I somehow come across summer tire money...
 
why would the brand matter? you're going from an oem shock to a shock that is totally valved differently and adjustable to say the least and keeping the oem ones up front? it's going to be unbalanced. if it wasn't going to make a difference in some manner, why would anyone do anything other than go OEM.

look, if all you need is brakes, just do the brakes. spend the money on the suspension when you can afford to do it right the first time.
 
why would the brand matter? you're going from an oem shock to a shock that is totally valved differently and adjustable to say the least and keeping the oem ones up front? it's going to be unbalanced. if it wasn't going to make a difference in some manner, why would anyone do anything other than go OEM.

look, if all you need is brakes, just do the brakes. spend the money on the suspension when you can afford to do it right the first time.

^^+1.

Had the front brakes already been done before? If not, you have a serious balancing issue...fronts should always wear much faster than rears.

Put the $238 toward summer tires. Or like captain said, save it to buy all four shocks. Just another opinion.
 
The rear shocks are leaking and need replaced. I bought the car used w/38000 miles on it, so I'm assuming that the front rotors and pads have been replaced.

I took the car in for a oil change about a month ago and they said that the rear rotors are at like 4mm (nothing), so I am going to replace the brakes asap.

I thought replacing the rear shocks wouldn't affect much... Thought the springs being replaced is what has huge effect
 
And oh yeah, about going back to oem, aftermarket is "better" product for the same price.
 
Well, thank you guys for all your input. I am going to hold off on doing the shocks in the rear until I get money for the front ones... Tireracks sale goes until june 1st. So I'll just do the rear brakes for now and then do struts and shocks at the same time.

I do thank you for the heads up!
 
konishocks.jpg


I received my shocks yesterday. I was wondering why they look like they're missing the upper half? Do I have to buy more crap, or just reuse from the stocks?
 
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Your OEM rear shock mounts and OEM rear bumpstops/shaft covers (I believe you may have to drill the tops of your rear mounts out as well for the larger diameter Koni shaft).
 
I find it real hard to believe that the rear rotors need to be replaced with 38k miles unless the previous owner did some serious autocrossing or tracking. I've had rear rotors last near 100,000 miles on a previous car and after turning them, they went another 50K plus. I've had cars that I've sold or traded in with 60k plus that never got a front OR rear brake job. I even did some light autocrossing with a few of them. Maybe I'm easy on my brakes, but jeez, with "normal" driving, the brakes on this car should not need replacing with the mileage you have, especially the rears. The fronts, I can say, "OK, maybe...". I would get a second opinion on the brakes.
 

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