Cobb AP Discussion Thread
- Thread starter djdanny5000
- Start date
Hmmm, The ECU is in closed loop and is doing the MBT dance and taking you to the point of very light knock and hovering around there for several seconds. Notice the AFR is hovering around stoic and your timing advance is running in the high 20s low 30s which is quite high. I'm quite sure no one wants to see that, but it really isn't damaging your engine at such light loads. Notice that everything looks great when you apply some actual load to the engine. I'm pretty sure we can tune out the KR, but it will almost certainly hurt the fuel mileage and maybe even driveability at part throttle.
We'll need to bring the CL Commanded EQ Base (AFR) Targets down about 0.2 and bring the timing tables down about 1.0 deg between 3k and 4k rpms on the first try. If you're satified with that then great, if not then do the same again up to a max change of ~0.6 AFR and 3-5 deg timing.
You may have already said, but are you running an OTS map? If you can, post up your ATR map file. I would like to take a look at it. I think I still have an "open" version of ATR not linked to an AP serial number.
Oh, and your fuel trims and AFRs look great, so likely no issues with MAF cal.
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im not using the dh as an accurate device, im just using it to guess how much fuel my car is pouring in. the blinking has still not gone away and i have driven well over 5000 miles this winter.
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79535
You are driving a turbo'd four banger! You shouldn't be worrying about fuel economy lol. 
Whoa! Are you saying that your CEL light will flash 8 times shortly after turning the key on, then go steady AND it still does this after thousands of miles? If this is the case, then you could have a problem with your ECU or some other sensor. Connect a regular scan tool and check the monitor status. Not the fault codes, but the individual monitors (evap, fuel, HEGO, etc) and see which one(s) have not completed. You may have some other problem that is preventing the ECU from completing the drive cycles required to complete the monitior tests.
You are driving a turbo'd four banger! You shouldn't be worrying about fuel economy lol.
true, and i managed to safely pass a 540i today
no, just the standard wait 20 seconds and get 8 blinks, then back to steady.
Can someone link me to the page where you sign up for ATR??
FORZDA- I have noticed my car has been doing this for the past few months. Even after a couple months mine still flashes 8 times when I turn the key on. Would a scan gauge from the autoparts store give me the info you are describing?
FORZDA- I have noticed my car has been doing this for the past few months. Even after a couple months mine still flashes 8 times when I turn the key on. Would a scan gauge from the autoparts store give me the info you are describing?
Yes, the regular scan tools will show the monitor status. If you guys are still seeing the 8 flashes of the CEL light, your ECU has not completed the drive cycles to allow normal operation. Something is wrong. The FSM has the drive cycle matrix required to complete all tests and I posted it up on one of these forums, but it was a long while back. I'll try to find it and repost or maybe someone that has it can throw it up.
A while back I said that when I went into fwd I noticed more boost. Well I did 2 datalogs on the way home tonight. First one is in awd. The second is with the fwd swtich. I am not sure if it actually went into fwd on this run since I didnt feel any torque steer. I will be doing this again soon since I went a little long on the datalog. But here is what I am getting.
Loving this AP!
Got in installed running the V102 Short ram + Turbo Inlet Map
Little worried now about fuel pressure.
last night on a WOT pull saw it dip to 900! NOT GOOD!
Few questions.
The fuel pressure tends to fluctuate. Not when I am accelerating or there is load. Seems to stay between 1600-1700. When I am at speed and just cruising it can dip to 500 sometimes. Is this normal?
I want to do the upgrade for sure I am feeling. PTP has 2 options one seems to be pre installed and you send yours back the other is to get the internals and do it yourself. I think I like doing it myself as if i ever need to go back I can.
Thoughts on the upgrade? And which one?
Thanks!
Got in installed running the V102 Short ram + Turbo Inlet Map
Little worried now about fuel pressure.
last night on a WOT pull saw it dip to 900! NOT GOOD!
Few questions.
The fuel pressure tends to fluctuate. Not when I am accelerating or there is load. Seems to stay between 1600-1700. When I am at speed and just cruising it can dip to 500 sometimes. Is this normal?
I want to do the upgrade for sure I am feeling. PTP has 2 options one seems to be pre installed and you send yours back the other is to get the internals and do it yourself. I think I like doing it myself as if i ever need to go back I can.
Thoughts on the upgrade? And which one?
Thanks!
If you want a kit with NO problems, then go here http://www.kmdtuning.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1153 to get it. The PTP kit seems to have "break-in" problems. My guess is they have specified tolerances too close and the piston is seizing for quite some time until it wears enough to gain clearance.
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79535
He is referring to the "200" mile breakin period on the pt-p internals where you aren't supposed to go over 4000 rpm. I have heard of some people needing 400 miles before they functioned properly.
Beyond that, I have heard only great things.
Beyond that, I have heard only great things.
The PTP kit is fraught with pump seizures and resulting power loss shortly after installation. There are quite a few posts in MSF from people having the issue. It does seem that those who "stick" it out until there is enough wear on the pump to get it past the seizing point that the pump then works well. In several recent cases, the people decided to return their internals kit to PTP for refund/replacement. PTP builds good stuff, but I think their pump kit clearances are a bit too tight.
The "better" for the KMD kit is that it goes in and works perfectly right from the start with none of the supposed "break-in" problems associated with the PTP internals kit.
I can't say for sure, but the difference may be in the different coatings used on the piston/sleeve components...
Here's the Drive Cycle shot from the FSM
Attachments
It bothers me that the KMD internals don't even mention our engine. Is the one you linked to the right one to get?
Yes, that is the correct kit. Feel free to contact KMD directly if you want. I have no interest in the company. I originally bought mine through Ken @ PG when there were so many problems with the MAXFLO kits he was selling. I'm not sure if Ken is still selling the KMDs though. He lists the PTP version on his web site now. Suit yourself on which kit, but if you have them all in front of you (like I did) and inspect them closely, you would likely chose the KMD kit, (I did). The KMD kit comes with hardened split locks and retainer just like ALL valve springs are retained with where the PTP kit reuses the OEM retainer.
The OEM retainer is a very good, single-piece design, yet can be VERY difficult to remove for many people making it and your OEM & new piston very susceptable to damage during the process. I used the KMD retainer setup and kept my OEM piston/sleeve for back up in case of future need. Now, PTP touts the fact they reuse the original retainer, which is fine, but certainly no big advantage IMO. YMMV.
Note that the MAXFLO kit had incredibly poor quality split locks and retainer that are literally junk. I threw them in the trash immediately so no one would ever attempt to use them....
