TIP- COBB or PG?

I have both the Cobb turbo inlet and SRI. I love them both but the bracket for the SRI broke(anyone figure out a fix for this btw) and now the whole setup from the turbo wobbles a bit. I have zipties right now to hold it steady but I think a solid metal inlet such as the PG one would help stabilize it in the event of a bracket breaking.
 
It's not the inlet that contributes to breaking. It's the tab on the car that breaks. It's a tiny piece of metal welded to the tranny mount plate cover.

If only Cobb had allowed SOME give in the bracket for the intake to move as the engine revs, that'd be different.

However, if you have a rear MM (a stiff one at that), it shouldn't break whatsoever. Those CS Inserts don't do much at all.
 
Dammit. This has not helped at all. I want the PG one because I can get wrinkle red, it costs less, and it is supposed to sound cool, also, Ken claims a 6 degree cooler intake temp.

...But I have heard there can be fitment issues, and thats where the COBB comes in. I have the MS CAI, so I dont really want any sizing surprises.

I am leaning towards the PG...

If you have the MScai then the pg will fit much better. Anyway seems like you made your mind so have fun playing with that metal coupler !!!
 
It's not the inlet that contributes to breaking. It's the tab on the car that breaks. It's a tiny piece of metal welded to the tranny mount plate cover.

If only Cobb had allowed SOME give in the bracket for the intake to move as the engine revs, that'd be different.

However, if you have a rear MM (a stiff one at that), it shouldn't break whatsoever. Those CS Inserts don't do much at all.


I installed mine with a certain degree of "give" over 15 months/16K miles ago using foam tape in between the car and Cobb bracket. I just didn't tighten the nuts on the mount all the way down, and then I Zip-tied the arm of the Cobb bracket tightly to the mount for the stock airbox that's right below it, and neither my battery tray nor my Cobb bracket has shown any signs of fatigue/stress. I inspect it periodically, and recently had to replace the Zip-ties because one of them finally degraded and snapped, but my solution seems to be working so far... (dunno)
 
I installed mine with a certain degree of "give" over 15 months/16K miles ago using foam tape in between the car and Cobb bracket. I just didn't tighten the nuts on the mount all the way down, and then I Zip-tied the arm of the Cobb bracket tightly to the mount for the stock airbox that's right below it, and neither my battery tray nor my Cobb bracket has shown any signs of fatigue/stress. I inspect it periodically, and recently had to replace the Zip-ties because one of them finally degraded and snapped, but my solution seems to be working so far... (dunno)

Good idea! I've been considering taking the Cobb bracket out and dremeling small slots for the bracket itself to rotate in with the same direction as the engine moves. Because it just doesn't seem to make sense to have that thing bolted down incase it's just going to go flying off. Got any pictures of that?

Now, with the Cobb TIP, seems like there's going to be a little more flex which may help as well. It also seems as this is a must-have for the SRI because MAN it's fun with both pieces on the car now.
 
...Got any pictures of that?...

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How does one get cooler ambient temps out of a metal tube vs a silicone one?

It's called the Reverse-Greenhouse Effect, or RGE for short. Essentially since a plastic greenhouse is made to collect sunlight and warm the interior, the opposing material (in this case, aluminum) will cause the opposite effect and will reflect sunlight away, causing a drop in ambient temperature.

Other common related effects include the Butt-Dyno Constant, which states that any effect of motion felt by an occupant is always 25% greater than the actual force which is acting on the individual, and the ever popular Inverse Occam's Razor, which states that all things being equal, the most convoluted answer is always the correct way to get the car to make good power.
 

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