Spin on oil filter options

There are several reasons why people have switched to 5w-40. Most recently is the TSB from Mazda regarding the smoking turbo phenomenon that seems to be more and more common. The MS6's PCV system is inadequate, and for now, this is a temporary fix.

Second, fuel shear in FI engines presents a problem. If you get a chance to look at 5w-30 UOAs for 5k miles or more (which is considered normal oil change interval for the car), you'll see the dilution becomes present over time. 5w-40 does help to block that, and provides adequate lubrication for the length of the oil change.

Last, the UK standard is 5w-30 or 10-40/10w-50 per the owners manual.

People aren't just changing their oil to 5w-40 because it's on a whim, there are documented results and benefits to doing so. One of the minor downsides would be a slight decrease in mileage, but for extra protection for your engine, it's worth the hit.
 
There are several reasons why people have switched to 5w-40. Most recently is the TSB from Mazda regarding the smoking turbo phenomenon that seems to be more and more common. The MS6's PCV system is inadequate, and for now, this is a temporary fix.

Second, fuel shear in FI engines presents a problem. If you get a chance to look at 5w-30 UOAs for 5k miles or more (which is considered normal oil change interval for the car), you'll see the dilution becomes present over time. 5w-40 does help to block that, and provides adequate lubrication for the length of the oil change.

Last, the UK standard is 5w-30 or 10-40/10w-50 per the owners manual.

People aren't just changing their oil to 5w-40 because it's on a whim, there are documented results and benefits to doing so. One of the minor downsides would be a slight decrease in mileage, but for extra protection for your engine, it's worth the hit.

Extra protection? Then we would all be running 60 weight oil if that were true.... Protection is due to oil FLOW and viscocity at a certain temperature and rpm. So if you go heavier, you may cause your oil pressure and temperature to rise, causing oil flow to not scale with rpm.

Isn't there a fix for you guys what restricts one side of the PCV so it doesn't push oil past the turbo seals and smoke? It's by PT or something right? It's what, $20? Seems like a better choice to maintain the engine at proper oil pressure and temperature than to give those up for harmless smoking reasons.

Fuel dilution is usually solveable with a turbo timer and making sure oil reaches operating temp and short trips are minimized.

Fun article to read:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123742886

If any of you have oil temp and pressure gauges and follow that article I'll agree with what the gauges read, but so far it all seems like a guess or a band-aid for something that needs stitches.
 
That PTP fix is junk. I had one and took it right out after it did nothing for me.

There's been a lot of talk why Mazda chose to go with 5w-30, and ultimately it boiled down to what most people think was the better mileage, especially after the delay and final gear ratio change. I've spoken with the service manager specifically on the subject, and there is NO problem with using 5w-40 in our engines.

I'll read up what you've posted, don't really have time right now.
 
brandini ur gonna loose this argument no matter what.. as tunersteve said there have been documented positive results when using 5w-40 oil .. ill have those pressure and temp readings for u tomorrow, one at start up one during WOT, and when the motor's at operating temp and ill throw in the highway cruising at 70 mph lets say for ya to..

"Protection is due to oil FLOW and viscocity at a certain temperature and rpm"

ur right so in tests with 5w-30 and 5w-40 on our motors... not ur motor.. the tests for our motors showed that there was better protection as u say with 5w-40.. proven results are posted on this forum.. thanks for playing. :)
 
Last edited:
there have been documented positive results when using 5w-40 oil

the tests for our motors showed that there was better protection as u say with 5w-40.. proven results are posted on this forum.. thanks for playing. :)

What tests? I have seen a UOA or two for some 5W-40 in the DISI but the concern there was just fuel content- which is par in a DI engine.

And Steve, how did you measure that the PTP fix was "crap"?

Just so you guys know I'm not picking for nits or starting arguments, I'm looking for real tests and results.
 
Last edited:
What tests? I have seen a UOA or two for some 5W-40 in the DISI but the concern there was just fuel content- which is par in a DI engine.

And Steve, how did you measure that the PTP fix was "crap"?

Just so you guys know I'm not picking for nits or starting arguments, I'm looking for real tests and results.

After running the PTP fix for over 500 miles, I saw no improvement in part throttle knock, oily smell from the turbo, or smoke prevention. I pulled mine out and ran another 500 miles and experienced the same results with it in.

Again, it goes back to the TSB from Mazda and the euro spec oil requirements. There are discussions on the 5w-30 spec oil based on EPA mileage requirements, and an attempt to improve them (less friction, more efficient, right?).

I've run both 5w-30 and 5w-40, I don't know how to explain it, but the 5w-40 just seems to keep the engine running 'better'.

I do appreciate the research on oil that you posted. That's a lot of good info right there.
 
I try and make my posts count, I'm just trying to see a reason to go to a thicker oil- maybe the disi runs hot for the small amount of oil it holds? My next mod is a BSD and trans cooler so cooling my atx fluid and increasing oil capacity should do wonders.

Oh and Boosted, can you make a 4th gear pull from 2k-6k and record the pressure at eack 1krpm after a boring typical drive? Then we'd have a baseline for whatever oil you run in your operating conditions and it'd be easy to see what the correct oil would be.
 
I try and make my posts count, I'm just trying to see a reason to go to a thicker oil- maybe the disi runs hot for the small amount of oil it holds? My next mod is a BSD and trans cooler so cooling my atx fluid and increasing oil capacity should do wonders.

Oh and Boosted, can you make a 4th gear pull from 2k-6k and record the pressure at eack 1krpm after a boring typical drive? Then we'd have a baseline for whatever oil you run in your operating conditions and it'd be easy to see what the correct oil would be.

No harm in being useful on here. I gave the PTP fix the benefit of the doubt, and it didn't impress. I'm only out $25, but I'd rather people keep their cash and wait for the PCV fix right now. From what I've been told, it still sounds like it may very well be a recall on the MS6, since all were affected by it.
 
I try and make my posts count, I'm just trying to see a reason to go to a thicker oil- maybe the disi runs hot for the small amount of oil it holds? My next mod is a BSD and trans cooler so cooling my atx fluid and increasing oil capacity should do wonders.

Oh and Boosted, can you make a 4th gear pull from 2k-6k and record the pressure at eack 1krpm after a boring typical drive? Then we'd have a baseline for whatever oil you run in your operating conditions and it'd be easy to see what the correct oil would be.

sure can.. once my fuel pump is in.. ill do the others for now.. once the full pump is in ill do a WOT in 4th and have someone record the temps and pressure's.. if it doesnt have to be WOT and i can just gradually get it up to 6k i can do it.. but im not pushing the car without the pump.. and to add the correct oil is 5w-40 (lol2) haha i feel the same way as steve the car feels better and engine runs smoother with it.. brandini i wish u lived closer so i could take u for a spin and show u what were talking about.
 
Last edited:
Ok so the EaO 57 is what Amsoil says is for the 2L Mazda 3. Is the 15 just a larger size? Does the 15 have the same spring pressure in it for the bypass valve? I got to the 33 by looking up the model number of the filter that came with my spin on conversion kit to a wix pn, then cross-referencing the amsoil.

From Wix for the 2007 2.0L Mazda3 Filter# 51348:
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.404
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=21/37
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21

The eao57 is 12.15 with my amsoil preferred customer so i'll be getting that this time... unless there's a good reason for the eao15.
 
Last edited:
Ok so the EaO 57 is what Amsoil says is for the 2L Mazda 3. Is the 15 just a larger size? Does the 15 have the same spring pressure in it for the bypass valve? I got to the 33 by looking up the model number of the filter that came with my spin on conversion kit to a wix pn, then cross-referencing the amsoil.

From Wix for the 2007 2.0L Mazda3 Filter# 51348:
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.404
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=21/37
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21

The eao57 is 12.15 with my amsoil preferred customer so i'll be getting that this time... unless there's a good reason for the eao15.


hmm ill see if i can get the specs.. the eao-15 is big.. it honestly didnt look like it would fit as i have said before but it did... i should note that to clear the bottom plastic protection piece we have on the speed 6's i had to cut mine alittle bit.. so it may sit to low for u on ur regular 6??
 
Back