TurboXS BPV

A

AZMS3

Member
Hi, Im needing to get a BPV due to my stock one leaking boost(notcool) in the higher gears when i go WOT. Was wondering what everyones thinks of the TurboXS BPV, such as no stubbling or other issues with the car. How well does it hold boost and how much louder the sound is than stock bpv and SRI intake.

Thanks
 
With respect, my stock BPV does not leak at 21,000 miles, even with a catless DP/RP. I think many people have a subjective belief that these devices leak just because some of them may or because they have been told that they leak, or just because they want something different with a different sound.

I'm wondering what OP's other mods are and in what manner he concludes that it "leaks." If he's spiking a couple pounds higher and then settling down to specified boost in the 15.5-16 pound range, that ain't a leak.
 
MSMS3 said:
I'm wondering what OP's other mods are and in what manner he concludes that it "leaks." If he's spiking a couple pounds higher and then settling down to specified boost in the 15.5-16 pound range, that ain't a leak.
Click to expand...

I want to continue using the stock bpv but my car seems to be having some issues ever since I put the Cobb intake on. It will pull hard in 1-4 but in 5 and 6 gear when I try and go WOT(I only go WOT above 3500rpm) . The car will boost then lose boost and then regain it. I don't have a boost gauge, but it is easy to tell that it builds boost then loses it and then builds up boost by the sound. I have searched and have not really found any solutions, so I figured maybe I was leaking boost. It seems that this doesn't happen to many other people, so im not too sure what to do.

My car is an 09 with just cobb intake, I have double checked the intake twice and seems to be installed correctly.

Thanks
 
Try connecting an inexpensive manual boost gauge to your BPV. You can get one cheap at any auto parts store. You can temporarily "Duck Tape" it to the outside of your windshield just to see what your boost is actually doing. You should consider a boost gauge, Dash Hawk or some other type of instrument to measure boost anyway.

I'm thinking you are experiencing boost cut or fuel cut (although the latter would be an abrupt, hard stutter) from your ECU, or that you are going past 5,500 rpm, where the turbo just gives up due to thermal ineffeciency. But maybe you do have a bad BPV. Boost gauge is the only way to really know.
 
MSMS3 said:
Try connecting an inexpensive manual boost gauge to your BPV. You can get one cheap at any auto parts store. You can temporarily "Duck Tape" it to the outside of your windshield just to see what your boost is actually doing. You should consider a boost gauge, Dash Hawk or some other type of instrument to measure boost anyway.

I'm thinking you are experiencing boost cut or fuel cut (although the latter would be an abrupt, hard stutter) from your ECU, or that you are going past 5,500 rpm, where the turbo just gives up due to thermal ineffeciency. But maybe you do have a bad BPV. Boost gauge is the only way to really know.
Click to expand...


I think your right about the possible boost cut, but it is not so abrupt or a hard stutter as you mentioned. What are my options to fix the problem. I've been looking at getting an AP as a way of fixing the issue. I may just go back to stock until then. I will look into a boost gauge to get a better reading. What I think is happening is that its boosting around normal or higher then cuts boost and then spools up again and cuts. This happens over and over again until I let off. I noticed that it is not as bad when I go partial WOT. This happens very fast, and causes more of a sluggishness.
 
Are you carrying the rpm's past 5,500? Shift there and see if it is still happening. If so, something is not right. The gauge is cheap - probably $20-$30 bucks and money well spent to find out what is going on. You might even be able to borrow one from someone for a temporary check. ECU could also be pulling power back under full load if you are not running at least 91 octane fuel or if you got some bad fuel.

There should be no reason to go back to the stock intake.
 
MSMS3 said:
Are you carrying the rpm's past 5,500? Shift there and see if it is still happening. If so, something is not right. The gauge is cheap - probably $20-$30 bucks and money well spent to find out what is going on. You might even be able to borrow one from someone for a temporary check. ECU could also be pulling power back under full load if you are not running at least 91 octane fuel or if you got some bad fuel.

There should be no reason to go back to the stock intake.
Click to expand...


I never take it past 5.5k rpm, no reason power falls so fast after that rpm. Also I always use 91 oct. I get my gas only from Mobil, Shell, or Chevron. For Arizona that's the best we got. Also I have reset the ecu a couple of times and that only fixes the problem for a short time and its then always back.
The crazy thing is that whenever I take my car on a little trip up north to higher elevation (3000-5000) the problem is not as bad in 5 and 6 gear. Im going to try and get a boost gauge this weekend and try and get the boost levels in 5 and 6. Im pretty sure it will read whatever stock boost levels should be at WOT then drop down to around 10psi or so for a split second then jump back up to normal, doing this over and over if I go WOT. Thanks for all the help so far.
 
i think you may be experiencing knock retard.
my car does that during summer on 91.
i have the cobb ap and have been watching it for months and anything over 90 degrees and it dogs out in higher gears.
 
v8stmpr said:
i think you may be experiencing knock retard.
my car does that during summer on 91.
i have the cobb ap and have been watching it for months and anything over 90 degrees and it dogs out in higher gears.
Click to expand...

Well that doesn't seem good. Isn't knock retard when the engine knocks the ecu retards the timing back to prevent further damage. Not sure? Also what are my options to preventing this from happening. What exactly are you seeing on the AP in 90+ weather regarding knock retard.

Thanks
 
MSMS3 said:
With respect, my stock BPV does not leak at 21,000 miles, even with a catless DP/RP. I think many people have a subjective belief that these devices leak just because some of them may or because they have been told that they leak, or just because they want something different with a different sound.
Click to expand...

My experience has been the same BUT when I tried boosting past 21 psi with my meth kit for the life of me it would not, even as I upped the load and made the other req'd changes in Cobb ATR. I changed back to my TurboXS BPV and guess what ... going to 22-23 now.

My opinion is that the stock BPV is great up to 21 psi. After that, it leaks and in my opinion it's safer to run an aftermkt BPV as with the stocker you're just making the turbo work harder to compensate for the lost boost through the BPV.
 
When I went to the Forge I could not believe the difference it made. I must have had a bad stock BPV because the difference was night and day. There have been many many others with this same experience. The Forge is simply the best option out there even though some don't like the ping. People still defend the stock BPV and won't spend $150 to replace it even though they spend thousands on every other mod.
 
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