AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

Ok I checked things out...and I'm convinced it's my boost source. It hasn't been working because at full boost(8psi) the AFC is reading .5psi. So that would explain alot.
 
ok i need a good base map for 440's and a gt2871 engine should be starting up this weekend anyone got one ?
Sure. Let me go get it out of my library of infinite AFC maps for every conceiveable mods combination...

Start from supermap, and make your own!
 
Not really, but it would be nice. People say, "well just tune it if your map is bad" and it's kinda hard when you don't know where to start in order to tune it.. such as where to change your a/f amount, how soon to change it, what to change it to, what to change the other things to, etc. They never made any instructions on how to actually tune it, they just tell you how to change the cell values. I don't want to mess with any of the cell values if I don't know what I'm doing, I do not want to mess something up.

I still have that fuel cut crap, and so many people say "well just tune it and it will get rid of it, you don't need the FCD" yet there is no info on WHAT to change in the map in order to make it go away, WHERE to change the values that would affect the fuel cut crap, etc. That would be nice to know.. because that FCD is sitting on my back seat patiently waiting for me to get pissed off enough to wire it in. /end rant

is there a write up on how to tune these yourself?
 
Ok i gotta question.. I just bought one of these puppies and was wondering if it will affect my emissions testing? Anyone with one of these had their emissions tested? Thanks all (drinks)
 
Ok, installed the v2 today. i can already tell a difference! the question is, should i start w/ the superstock map or the default map that it comes with? Wideband comes in tomorrow! i cant wait! Thx everyone (drinks)
 
all split seconds that are fuel only go by the designation of PSC1-020. the version 1 as stated above has no harness for wideband sensor input (typically a series of orange wires). if you have these wires then you have a version 2. we only sell the version 2 now and have only sold the version 2 for almost a year. the only way to get version 1s is used at this point.

most people are better off starting with the supermap (this is what somes on the unit) and tuning for thier setups from there

haha, its the same thing.. i feel dumb.(sssh)
 
upon installing my ssafc, i found that pin 24 (blk/wht) had been cut. does anyone know what 24 goes to? I had my ecu reflashed, does this have anything to do with it?
 
Not really, but it would be nice. People say, "well just tune it if your map is bad" and it's kinda hard when you don't know where to start in order to tune it.. such as where to change your a/f amount, how soon to change it, what to change it to, what to change the other things to, etc. They never made any instructions on how to actually tune it, they just tell you how to change the cell values. I don't want to mess with any of the cell values if I don't know what I'm doing, I do not want to mess something up.

I still have that fuel cut crap, and so many people say "well just tune it and it will get rid of it, you don't need the FCD" yet there is no info on WHAT to change in the map in order to make it go away, WHERE to change the values that would affect the fuel cut crap, etc. That would be nice to know.. because that FCD is sitting on my back seat patiently waiting for me to get pissed off enough to wire it in. /end rant

.3 change in the cell value will equate to about 1AFR change. i have 440's and it's around there. varies based on boost and such.

you have the V2 so you should be datalogging AFR's. i don't so i gotta use a camera to record AFR with the tach, and use the datalog for RPM and boost. it's not perfect but it works. i've gotten to the point where i don't need the camera anymore unless the whole map is ******. i know all the bad points in my RPM range.

street tuning is a long painful process but it's worth it. you will have to go little by little. having a map from someone else will be a little easier. i used the "440cc_injector_map22" as a base map to work off of.

on the R4 software set the output B to something low like 2-3PSI. i have it set at 0. do small changes in the cells, 0.3. and see how that affects you're AFRs. just remember you gotta turn off the engine before you upload the new maps.

you might be maxing the MAF voltage thus getting fuel cut. happened to me on stock injectors. since swapping in the MSP ECU i havn't gotten fuel cut. but i havn't gone over 7PSI either. still gotta install my boost controller.

if you want a better walkthrough let me know
 
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well see my prob is i would tune a map for my car but being that i have a fresh motor im not gonna go wail on it as soon as i start it, im looking for a decent map that works. need to break my engine in before i go tuning a map for it . i dont really want to flood the engine with gas cause me to wash the cylinder walls out
 
When I had my new engine, I never went into boost with it, drove normal but mainly used the vacuum thing.. downshifting when I was able to for that to slow me down and that is supposed to seat the piston rings better. When I had my head replaced, they looked inside my engine and everything looked great with how I broke it in. I had just the stock ECU (along with the MAM FMIC, sri, PWR radiator, stock injectors) until I was ready to boost. I would think that you really wouldn't need the 440cc's until you've driven on the new engine for a while and until you are ready to give it some boost where you will actually need the injectors. If you just used the stock injectors, I'd think that would help you out since you're not going to max them out driving normally.. I'd recommend just the stock ECU if you don't want to worry about it, or the Superstockmap if you have to use the AFC.

well see my prob is i would tune a map for my car but being that i have a fresh motor im not gonna go wail on it as soon as i start it, im looking for a decent map that works. need to break my engine in before i go tuning a map for it . i dont really want to flood the engine with gas cause me to wash the cylinder walls out
 
quick question to anyone in the know better than myself (this is a belated followup on my woes from months ago - been waiting for this warm weather to reattempt this install). I have my AFC V2 installed again, and this time got same problems. I know the ground is solid. So I start it after a fresh map upload, and get the same (really rich idle). I disconnect the O2 sensor wires (pink/blue & pink) then start again...still rich. Reconnect the O2 wires, and disconnect the MAF wires (green & purple) and voila - car is idling smooth with everything else connected. SO - I've narrowed it down to the MAF connection wires giving me the headache....but what does this mean??
 
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