What kind/brand of oil do you use?

I use 5w-30. That is what weight the manual says. No real reason to think we can outsmart Mazdas engineering dept by coming up with something better. They spend alot of money looking into this. With synthetic you should be fine in pretty much any situation. On a molecular level it wont break down in intense heat like regular oil and in the cold it wont gue up as much.

-Pete

I always laugh when I read something like this because the recommended oil viscosity these days in this country has more to do with fuel economy and emissions standards than having your engine last long. Manufacturers are trying to squeeze more and more mpg out of their vehicles and one way to do this is to run thinner and thinner oils. They spend a lot of money alright. A lot of money trying to get cars more efficient and telling you to use a 5W-20 or 30 to be able to get good CAFE numbers is a lot cheaper than designing a more efficient motor.

The MPS manual in Europe and Australia specify that a 5W-40 can be used. So are the motors in the MPS's any less engineered than ours? Why do most turbocharged, high-performance cars in Europe go with a 5W-40?? Why are most of these 5W-40's labeled "Euro Blend"?
 
Your ideas are intriguing. And I'd like to subscribe to your newsletter. Maybe I'll switch to 5w40 if it would be the best thing for my engine. **** fuel economy.
 
One thing I can pretty much guarantee: the guy who changes his oil frequently will more than likely enjoy long engine life (barring any lemons or factory defects).

I think i said that. Synthetic does perform better in cold weather and extreme heat and tends to last longer. These are factors you can actually test in a lab. From a chemistry point of view most synthetic molecules are more stable then the ones found in conventional oil. I would think this would lead the average person to the conclusion that it will give you better protection, even if its marginal in some cases.
Pleas don't get me wrong, I'm not saying conventional oil doesn't work, because clearly it does. Just most of the research I have done says synthetic out performs conventional oil.

Don't most porshes, BMWs, Corvettes, etc etc come with conventional oil? Must be a reason for that.

For me it pays off. Right now it -10 F out side. Knowing that when I start my car in the morning my oil will be more like oil and less like syrup give me peace of mind. I drive 100 miles a day. Being able to extend my oil changes to 4500-5000 miles saves me money, and time.

The difference is cost isn't really that bad either. Its $33 every 10 weeks for me or $20 every 6 (not counting oil filter.. and the **** at the dealer). Kinda washes out in the end.

I always laugh when I read something like this because the recommended oil viscosity these days in this country has more to do with fuel economy and emissions standards than having your engine last long. Manufacturers are trying to squeeze more and more mpg out of their vehicles and one way to do this is to run thinner and thinner oils. They spend a lot of money alright. A lot of money trying to get cars more efficient and telling you to use a 5W-20 or 30 to be able to get good CAFE numbers is a lot cheaper than designing a more efficient motor.

The MPS manual in Europe and Australia specify that a 5W-40 can be used. So are the motors in the MPS's any less engineered than ours? Why do most turbocharged, high-performance cars in Europe go with a 5W-40?? Why are most of these 5W-40's labeled "Euro Blend"?

Changing oil weight isn't going save them the cost of redesigning a more efficient engine, its just gonna give slightly better results on whatever they come up with. While I agree with you car companies want to squeeze everything they can out of every car they sell to make higher proffit, i don't buy into the 'higher mpg' conspiracy. Is it a factor? Sure it is, but to argue that we know more about mazdas, then well... Mazda does, is a little silly. Keep in mind while they want to get the best specs out of a car they can, they also need to sell you a quality product. If they go around recommending the wrong oil, that wont serve them in the long run

Another thing to keep in mind, is as manufacturing techniques become better and tolerances on part dimentions become smaller, a thinner oil can be used. The better the part, or another way to look at it is the smoother the surface, the less it will wear.

As for the 5w-40, I would like to see if that is the suggested weight, or if it just another weight that is approved. And the weight used in other countries could be related to reasons other then just mpg. Remember one could argue on the other side of the fence you have the evil Exxon Mobils, Shells, Citgo, etc, with their lobbyists and shady deals, who want to make more money and get in bed with car companies to keep the cars guzzling gas. (im not saying i buy into that theory either... just an apposing argument )

All im saying is, mazda did their homework. If they recommend 5w-30, its probably fine... just remember to change your friggin oil! :D
 
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M1(fullysyn)baby.

with the last few post, it seems alot of people are using PP. is it because of the M1 shortage?

or alot of people feel PP is better than M1
 
I think i said that. Synthetic does perform better in cold weather and extreme heat and tends to last longer. These are factors you can actually test in a lab.

I'm not disputing that. My point is, as the frequency of changes become higher (like every 3k), the difference in protection is minimal as most conventionals can handle the amount of shearing that take place in that short amount of time. Extend the intervals and all the advantages of synth come more into play.

I do agree that in situations of extreme temps like in racing or below zero temps like you described, synthetics could make more sense. And I say could because in the situation like you described where the ambient temp is -10, a conventional can easily work just as well as long as it's rated pour point exceeds that number (which is the case with many conventionals).
 
Ok yeah that is true the more you change, the less difference you will notice. Although some people do claim their cars run better on syth

One area I have hear conventional oil can be better is for older engines where the seals leak a bit. In this situation conventional oil will leave buildup in the leaks and stop them from leaking. Thats why when some people with older cars switch to synthetic they find they they have to top off their oil between changes.

Even where the differences might be very little, I would still take the added benefit of the synth. To make up for the extra cost, rob a quicky mart.. or change your own oil. :D
 
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M1(fullysyn)baby.

with the last few post, it seems alot of people are using PP. is it because of the M1 shortage?

or alot of people feel PP is better than M1

I use PP because of the proven fantastic UOA's with our cars. For some reason it takes very kindly to the DISI fuel dilution issues.
 
exactly 6qts. of valvoline 5W30 full synthetic... and wix oil filter (one of the best filters you can buy, IMO)...

my .02 ....

nothing against regular motor oil ... i have used it and recieved many, many miles on those and regular oil changes... always valvoline.

dad suggested i run synthetic in the speed because of the turbo. dad worked for 25 years in research for shell oil products. he would know, i guess. where he worked, they did a lot of real world testing on various oil products... in real cars.

he said that the synthetic would hold up better under the heat that a turbocharged engine sees, better than conventional motor oil. he thought the light weight of the oil was a bit extreme, but said he would run a synthetic at the recommended weight, and change it every 5000.
 
exactly 6qts. of valvoline 5W30 full synthetic... and wix oil filter (one of the best filters you can buy, IMO)...

my .02 ....

nothing against regular motor oil ... i have used it and recieved many, many miles on those and regular oil changes... always valvoline.

dad suggested i run synthetic in the speed because of the turbo. dad worked for 25 years in research for shell oil products. he would know, i guess. where he worked, they did a lot of real world testing on various oil products... in real cars.

he said that the synthetic would hold up better under the heat that a turbocharged engine sees, better than conventional motor oil. he thought the light weight of the oil was a bit extreme, but said he would run a synthetic at the recommended weight, and change it every 5000.

Aren't you overfilling it? The manual calls for 5.8 and mine is always full at around 5.5 quarts because I think some stays in the balance shaft assembly unless you let it drain for like a full day.
 
I had a shop put in exactly 6, i supplied the oil
and said i thought it was about six with the filter change and I found it was a tad over when checking the dipstick a couple times. So i drained a pinch out. Its nice to hear an opnion from an expert. Your Dad sounds like he qualifies as one to me. Even Mazda overfilled it once. I always check now.
 
I'm at 37,000 miles and haven't had to change my oil yet. Whatever they use at the factory kicks ass. I'm only down 2 quarts. It smokes a little at start up and makes a loud ticking sound but my friend says it's probably the injectors.
 
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Change is bad anyways, fear change has always been my motto. Whenever you post i learn alittle about myself. Then i throw up. Thanks for keepin' it real Swampster
 
5.6 qts of penn plat 5W30, every 3000, with a new fram filter. Thinking of switching to a better filter...
 
i checked it again today... after it sat for a bit... just a hair under the max line... go figure. i did change the oil about a half our after i got home.. the oil was still pretty hot. so maybe i got more out... i dunno.

i asked dad again today what he thought about running a bit heavier oil, and we debated it a bit. he said he wouldn't do it, but it probably wouldn't hurt a thing down here in the warm se texas.

he says you have to remember that these aren't american cars, and the tolerances are closer. both are set up to use oil differently. you wouldn't run 50wt in a small, light aluminum engiine... but a chev v8 making 700 horses using a massive high volume/high pressure pump likes straight 50w just fine. an all aluminum turboed 4-banger making 270hp is not the same as a cast iron v8 making 270hp.

pops is still pretty impressed with the car..

has there ever been a rear wheel drive platform with this engine?
 
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35K miles on the MS3. Started Mobile 1 5w-30 at 6K miles and change every 6K. Twice the cost, but I would probably change dino oil every 3K so it is a wash cost wise.
 
i checked it again today... after it sat for a bit... just a hair under the max line... go figure. i did change the oil about a half our after i got home.. the oil was still pretty hot. so maybe i got more out... i dunno.

i asked dad again today what he thought about running a bit heavier oil, and we debated it a bit. he said he wouldn't do it, but it probably wouldn't hurt a thing down here in the warm se texas.

he says you have to remember that these aren't american cars, and the tolerances are closer. both are set up to use oil differently. you wouldn't run 50wt in a small, light aluminum engiine... but a chev v8 making 700 horses using a massive high volume/high pressure pump likes straight 50w just fine. an all aluminum turboed 4-banger making 270hp is not the same as a cast iron v8 making 270hp.

pops is still pretty impressed with the car..

has there ever been a rear wheel drive platform with this engine?

The only reason the mazda usa specifies 5w-30 is so they squeeze out every drop of fuel economy they can without damaging the motor. I believe the aussies specify 40 weight with the same motor but without the fuel economy standards.
 
The only reason the mazda usa specifies 5w-30 is so they squeeze out every drop of fuel economy they can without damaging the motor. I believe the aussies specify 40 weight with the same motor but without the fuel economy standards.
That's true. The other thing that should be taken into account is fuel dilution and how any oil will shear down over time. So if you run a 30 weight and drive hard, it may actually be a 20 weight after a thousand or two thousand miles. Running a 40 wt on this engine is a good idea IMO. Just remember to get 5w-40 so it will flow the same when the engine is cold as the 5w-30...
 

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