Engine Mount Woes

[robeats]

I've gotten the RR front and rear mount inserts, and am less pleased with the performance so far.

I installed the front mount inserts with little issue and immediately noticed reduced engine movement. However, only a few weeks afterwards, the vibrations returned, so I installed the rear mount inserts today. What a giant pain in the arse that was!

Now the in-cabin vibrations are unbearable--EVERYTHING rattles now, and the engine vibrations are still a real pain. Clutch engagement is now accompanied by even more chatter and vibration than before I installed either front or rear inserts.

Did I waste 4 hours installing the rear mount inserts when what I really needed was a side mount and/or transmission mount or mount inserts?

And are the RR mount inserts known for adding significant in-cab vibrations? I chose them because I thought they'd be softer and transmit less vibrations into the car than true replacement mounts. If anyone has experience with both inserts and replacement mounts, let me know if this is false logic.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I want to find a solution that will reduce vibrations while keeping the clutch shudder to a minimum.

 

[bgibb68]

yeah i got the passenger side mount going really bad.....but i'm planning on replacing all with medievill.....no inserts here...just relace the whole thing man


edit: i've read alot and it would appear that the medieval combines the best of holding and less vibes than most of the afermarket from all the peoples talk

 

[Aricjm15]

could it be a possibility that your car is just in need of a tune up? I find it hard to believe that inserts would cause that much vibration. Also clutch chatter is a sign that there is something else wrong, as in it might be time for a new one.

 

[bgibb68]

clutch chatter is another thing that i have lived with for like the last 40k.....i just keep waiting for it to go out but it still goes....i honestly really am impredded this car has held up to my foot....considering i went through 3 clutched on ma s10, breaking one at 180k

 

[robeats]

could it be a possibility that your car is just in need of a tune up? I find it hard to believe that inserts would cause that much vibration. Also clutch chatter is a sign that there is something else wrong, as in it might be time for a new one.

It's possible that it's time for a tuneup, it's been 20k since new denso platinum plugs were put in, and over 10k since the K&N air filter went in. It does start and run smoothly though, and idles without issue.

The clutch I believe is original, and at 80k it may well be time for a new one. It doesn't slip (noticeably) and the TO bearing is still quiet. The engagement is only chattery if not done quickly, which does sound like the flywheel has some hotspots/minor warpage.

I was hoping the new motor mount inserts would help rein in these chattering vibrations, and so far they've had little effect.

 

[wiprotege5]

What the durometer of the mounts did you buy?

 

[robeats]

RR-Racing only offers one stiffness, which I now see they describe as "ultra stiff"

 

[TheMAN]

the mildest upgrade to always do to motor mounts is to replace the passenger side one with the MSP one and then upgrade the one by the radiator

the rear mount is pretty stiff rubber as it is, it isn't necessary for non-turbo

 

[wiprotege5]

RR-Racing only offers one stiffness, which I now see they describe as "ultra stiff"

Ahh, that might be it. Some people complain about the 70 durometer mounts are too stiff. I'm going to be upgrading soon and I'am kinda worried myself about the vibrations of 70 durometer AWRs.

 

[robeats]

Well crap. I guess I'll be taking these back out and searching for some OEM mounts.

Thanks for the info everyone!

 

[zoomin MP3]

Ahh, that might be it. Some people complain about the 70 durometer mounts are too stiff. I'm going to be upgrading soon and I'am kinda worried myself about the vibrations of 70 durometer AWRs.

Where do you plan to install the mounts? With the 70 duro, you'll be pretty safe. I've got a front and rear AWR. Can't remember which is which, but one is the 88 the other is 95. With the front changed out, you'll notice an increase for a few weeks while it breaks in. Then it returns almost to a stock feel, just with better performance. With the rear, the vibes never go away.

 

[wiprotege5]

Where do you plan to install the mounts? With the 70 duro, you'll be pretty safe. I've got a front and rear AWR. Can't remember which is which, but one is the 88 the other is 95. With the front changed out, you'll notice an increase for a few weeks while it breaks in. Then it returns almost to a stock feel, just with better performance. With the rear, the vibes never go away.

Well, I bought the complete set with transmission mount. I figured what I didn't want to install I could sell.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

I would be interested in the passenger side inserts if you're gonna sell them.

 

[zoomin MP3]

Well, I bought the complete set with transmission mount. I figured what I didn't want to install I could sell.

Sounds like a great plan. Personally I'd recommend starting with the front mm. Drive it for a few weeks until it breaks in, then decide whether to install more mounts. I'd follow with the pass mount after the front. These are the 2 that break the easiest. They're also the easiest to replace.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

When I did inserts I installed the RR front first, then ran on it for a while. I was not down with the vibes, especially when it was cold. I was going to start messing with the idle and stuff but installed AWR side inserts first, and it made all the difference. I would honestly try that...it's an easy job, and they actually dampened the vibes quite a bit.

 

[wiprotege5]

Sounds like a great plan. Personally I'd recommend starting with the front mm. Drive it for a few weeks until it breaks in, then decide whether to install more mounts. I'd follow with the pass mount after the front. These are the 2 that break the easiest. They're also the easiest to replace.

With just replacing the front Motor Mount, do you think it would add a lot more vibrations. That is what I'm concerned about, the vibrrrrrrrraaaaaaatttttiiiiiionnnnnns .

 

[zoomin MP3]

You'll notice an increase in vibrations yes. They're not that bad with just the front mount. And after a few weeks of driving, it'll sort of "break in" and you'll notice a decrease in vibrations, almost back to the stock level.

 

[el_Don]

Symptoms

How can I tell if I have a broken motor mount? So is it agreed that the best mm to change is the front one?

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

You may as well do them all, or at least the front and sides (the rear is a pita). If you can get eyes on the stock mount you will probably see torn rubber...if so, the mount is much less effective. If you drive hard and have a decent amount of miles on your car, the mounts are probably already tearing.

 

[NVP5White]

You'll notice an increase in vibrations yes. They're not that bad with just the front mount. And after a few weeks of driving, it'll sort of "break in" and you'll notice a decrease in vibrations, almost back to the stock level.

I want to add my $0.02 here. I have inserts in my front mount only. I believe that what is happening during this break-in period is actually the rear mount softening due to additional stress. The front inserts basically take all of the front to back movement out of the mount and make the rear mount fight the engine's desire to rotate backwards upon acceleration. I have found that the rear mount will continue to soften without tearing to the point where it is pretty useless. I am at this stage now after 2+ years with the front inserts. I have the rear inserts and am considering having them installed.

I have also considered getting the Weapon-R damper since this would also address the excess movement that currently plagues my engine. This might be a better option for those looking for a mix of performance and drive-ability. My only concern is that if the rear mount is already very weak that making the damper take-up that slack might prematurely wear it out. I also drive in stop-and-go traffic a lot and I wouldn't want the damper to overheat and fail that way.

Thoughts?