Love this little guy, but need some help from the pros...

[TapOut]

Sup fellas, I'm new to the forum and just got back in the seat of a Mazda3....but this time a Speed3. I loved my old 06 GT I had a couple years ago...but always wanted a Speed3 ever since they came out, and I happened to find a great deal and jumped on it.

I love this little guy so far, but it needs a few more things to make it perfect for me. So can you guys help answer a few questions for me?

-How much better does the shifting feel with the TWM shifter and bushings? I don't want the shifter too low, but I want a more solid/smooth shift? Also what about tranny fluid, anything to make these cars shift smoother?

-What is the best aftermarket Xenon kit to get? I wish I had a GT, but since the sport is what I got, I want to make it as close as I can to a GT. Is there a way to change the rear lights to LED while I'm at it?

-Lastly what will give me the most reliable power gains without having to worry about CEL's and smog. This is my daily, so I don't want any headaches. I already ordered an Injen CAI, but what would you recommend as far as downpipe and maybe BPV upgrades?

Any help would be much appreciated! (thumb)

PS- Ohh and I almost forgot, how stiff is the stock clutch on these cars? Mine seems to be pretty damn stiff for a stock car (Stiffer then the one in my Z06)? It's an 07 with 21k miles, so maybe the previous owner went aftermarket??

 

[UHATEIT]

you can get ANY aftermarket hid kit on ebay for cheap. I have an 8000K for $65 shipped on ebay and its great! No need to cshell out for anything expensive. I have the same kit on my wife's jetta for over a year and no problems at all!

You're oging against what you originally said about "not worrying about smog" and then saying you wanted a downpipe. Those 2 obviously won't mix But a testpipe/racepipe will not cause any CEL and still be smoggable here in CA.

I have the twm bushings as the shifter is high priced to death, and the bushing along with motor mount inserts (or go a full motor mount) stiffens up the shifting and gives much less play in the motor from rocking around. Plus the bushings feel more firm when shifting than the rubber stock ones.

Bpv you can obviously go with any brand that you choose. I personally have the Greddy type-S for the awesome sound and loudness. but any one will work, depending on yoru sound preference.

Good luck with your decision!

 

[TapOut]

you can get ANY aftermarket hid kit on ebay for cheap. I have an 8000K for $65 shipped on ebay and its great! No need to cshell out for anything expensive. I have the same kit on my wife's jetta for over a year and no problems at all!

You're oging against what you originally said about "not worrying about smog" and then saying you wanted a downpipe. Those 2 obviously won't mix But a testpipe/racepipe will not cause any CEL and still be smoggable here in CA.

I have the twm bushings as the shifter is high priced to death, and the bushing along with motor mount inserts (or go a full motor mount) stiffens up the shifting and gives much less play in the motor from rocking around. Plus the bushings feel more firm when shifting than the rubber stock ones.

Bpv you can obviously go with any brand that you choose. I personally have the Greddy type-S for the awesome sound and loudness. but any one will work, depending on yoru sound preference.

Good luck with your decision!

Thanks for the info bro, but I didn't know a DP would cause any smog issues on this car? Is that because it will replace a sensor or I'm assuming maybe a secondary cat? Not sure as I haven't really dug too deep into this thing yet. But I was thinking something less restrictive, and as long as I pass smog with it here in CA I'll be happy.

As for the BPV, how do these cars act when venting to atmosphere? Is the MAF forgiving or am I gonna lose too much air count and run into stalling and or running rich issues? Are you guys mostly running vented back in or one of those BPV's that have 50/50 setup? Thanks!

 

[AAMguy]

with all of the cars listed in your sig...are you really asking a bov question.???

-maf cars = no bov

yet half the kids do run them on here but its pointless and stupid.

I am sure as soon as i post this someone will say get the forge bpv because "the stock valve" leaks

 

[TapOut]

with all of the cars listed in your sig...are you really asking a bov question.???

-maf cars = no bov

yet half the kids do run them on here but its pointless and stupid.

I am sure as soon as i post this someone will say get the forge bpv because "the stock valve" leaks

Haha, well no not asking about BOV's in general as I've had my fair share of force induced cars...I was just asking because it seems like every MS3 I see on here or youtube seems to be venting to atmosphere? I personally ran VTA on my GSX for years, but I was also running with a piggy-back ECU and dumping the WG out the side of the bumper.

I was asking more to see what BOV works the best on this car specifically. I want something that won't leak under boost, but that also has somewhat of a nicer sound (similar to a SARD or TIAL bpv).

But the most important issues for me are more in regards to DP, any other hard pipes that I can change out, tranny fluids you guys run (something like BG Synchro shift, redline etc). You know, all the little in's and out's of this car and "best mod practices" as I'm just starting to really learn about this car.

 

[SwampAss]

To improve the shifting, the best thing you can do is change to a synthetic trans fluid. I went with redline MT90. The $35 and hour spent changing it was better than any one single shift related mod.

Having said that, a new rear motor mount helps, as do the bushings and short shifter.

I haven't had a poor shift since the fluid change, which I did about 5000 miles ago. The most expensive mod is the short shifter and IMO, has the least effectiveness for positive shifts. I'd still spend the money on the short shifter again as I like the direct and crisp feeling it gives the car.

Change fluid $35
Change motor mount $100 AND UP
Change bushings $35
Change to short shifter. $225


that's my order.

 

[mazdaspeedster3]

To improve the shifting, the best thing you can do is change to a synthetic trans fluid. I went with redline MT90. The $35 and hour spent changing it was better than any one single shift related mod.

Having said that, a new rear motor mount helps, as do the bushings and short shifter.

I haven't had a poor shift since the fluid change, which I did about 5000 miles ago. The most expensive mod is the short shifter and IMO, has the least effectiveness for positive shifts. I'd still spend the money on the short shifter again as I like the direct and crisp feeling it gives the car.

Change fluid $35
Change motor mount $100 AND UP
Change bushings $35
Change to short shifter. $225


that's my order.

With an intake in there some where and maybe a BPV to hold boost better.

 

[TapOut]

To improve the shifting, the best thing you can do is change to a synthetic trans fluid. I went with redline MT90. The $35 and hour spent changing it was better than any one single shift related mod.

Having said that, a new rear motor mount helps, as do the bushings and short shifter.

I haven't had a poor shift since the fluid change, which I did about 5000 miles ago. The most expensive mod is the short shifter and IMO, has the least effectiveness for positive shifts. I'd still spend the money on the short shifter again as I like the direct and crisp feeling it gives the car.

Change fluid $35
Change motor mount $100 AND UP
Change bushings $35
Change to short shifter. $225


that's my order.

Thanks bro, that is very helpful info. The only thing I'm concerned about is the vibration by changing out the rear mount? How much was that impacted once you made the change?

I know it's usually not a HUGE deal, but I'm getting older now and enjoy the nice smooth feel at a stop light. I'm sure it's not going to feel like my 331ci cammed fox with damn near solid urethane bushings....but how much more vibration are you experiencing with the mount change?

 

[TapOut]

With an intake in there some where and maybe a BPV to hold boost better.

Yeah my Injen CAI is already on order, now just need to find what other hard pipes, dp etc I need to replaces/upgrade. Ohh and probably switch out the TMIC as well.

 

[AAMguy]

fmic,test pipe, downpipe....

the cbe is actually very impressive from the factory not even worth upgrading.

 

[SwampAss]

Thanks bro, that is very helpful info. The only thing I'm concerned about is the vibration by changing out the rear mount? How much was that impacted once you made the change?

I know it's usually not a HUGE deal, but I'm getting older now and enjoy the nice smooth feel at a stop light. I'm sure it's not going to feel like my 331ci cammed fox with damn near solid urethane bushings....but how much more vibration are you experiencing with the mount change?

Some people will say differently, but I have an 88 durometer AWR mount that exhibits ZERO vibration and tightens up the engine movement nicely. I bought it from a fellow Mazdaspeeder for $65 used when the TRZ mounts were released. It's probably got 20,000 miles on it. The corksport inserts offer about 90% of the support the AWR does, and they cheaper. I had those also and was very pleased with them. I know the solid mounts do vibrate, but the AWR 88 and corksport inserts did not vibrate in my car at all.

 

[SwampAss]

A larger, better flowing top mount intercooler is also a worthy purchase. It fattens up the powerband where you use it most...right in the middle. I bought one, sold it, missed it, and bought another. I have no numbers on increased output but it was certainly noticeable. I know some people swear by the Front mount intercooler, but it's a bit more expensive and can sometimes be a head ache. I went to a front mount intercooler on another turbo car I had previously and spent a lot of time over the course of 2 years looking for boost leaks. As you know, it adds a lot of plumbing and potential areas for leaks. The TMIC is simple and works well.

 

[mazdaspeedster3]

Some people will say differently, but I have an 88 durometer AWR mount that exhibits ZERO vibration and tightens up the engine movement nicely. I bought it from a fellow Mazdaspeeder for $65 used when the TRZ mounts were released. It's probably got 20,000 miles on it. The corksport inserts offer about 90% of the support the AWR does, and they cheaper. I had those also and was very pleased with them. I know the solid mounts do vibrate, but the AWR 88 and corksport inserts did not vibrate in my car at all.

Are you kidding me? I am laughing. No offense (I am seriously not being offensive) but your butt and toes must be numb. I have the AWR and it vibrates like none other. I have even taken it out and swapped the stock in to compare. Also just installed the CS inserts in my buddys Speed3 and his vibrates almost as bad as mine. Also, you must just be pulling his leg because there is no way yours is not vibrating, everyone I know with a rear mount vibrates, even the TRZ vibrates as bad as my AWR Delrin.

 

[TapOut]

A larger, better flowing top mount intercooler is also a worthy purchase. It fattens up the powerband where you use it most...right in the middle. I bought one, sold it, missed it, and bought another. I have no numbers on increased output but it was certainly noticeable. I know some people swear by the Front mount intercooler, but it's a bit more expensive and can sometimes be a head ache. I went to a front mount intercooler on another turbo car I had previously and spent a lot of time over the course of 2 years looking for boost leaks. As you know, it adds a lot of plumbing and potential areas for leaks. The TMIC is simple and works well.

I agree with ya there! I've ran all types of FMIC in the past, and you do tend to run into more headaches, especially when you blow a pipe off on a freeway pull going 100mph at over 20psi of boost. Although upgrading to grade A T-clamp bolts solved all those problems, I don't really want to change the stock design of the MS3.

And you do start dealing with pressure drop issues if the core and piping aren't' designed properly. You can't just slap on a huge FMIC without taking into consideration the size of the turbo, cfm output etc etc. I think a nice thick core TMIC will do the job just fine, as long as it's not getting heat soaked to quickly....it'll serve it's purpose on a daily driver.

 

[chief_wiggum]

I put the 70 durometer AWR mount in about 2 weeks ago -- no vibrations, no slop, just goodness.

 

[coololddude]

this is too technical. cant we just talk about breasts?

 

[SwampAss]

Are you kidding me? I am laughing. No offense (I am seriously not being offensive) but your butt and toes must be numb. I have the AWR and it vibrates like none other. I have even taken it out and swapped the stock in to compare. Also just installed the CS inserts in my buddys Speed3 and his vibrates almost as bad as mine. Also, you must just be pulling his leg because there is no way yours is not vibrating, everyone I know with a rear mount vibrates, even the TRZ vibrates as bad as my AWR Delrin.

I swear! It's smooth. Really smooth. Even with my AC on. It was previously broken in when I got it though.

I had all poly mounts in my A1 Rabbit GTI. I couldn't play CDs in that car. The Mazda is buttah.

 

[TapOut]

I swear! It's smooth. Really smooth. Even with my AC on. It was previously broken in when I got it though.

I had all poly mounts in my A1 Rabbit GTI. I couldn't play CDs in that car. The Mazda is buttah.

So that's 3 people saying it's smooth like butta....and one person not feelin it. I'll have to give it a shot and see what it reads on my personal ASS-O-Meter.

Ohhh yeah....one thing I can't figure out. There was a youtube video of this one MS3 with a triple gauge pod in the middle of the dash....but the pod also had a hood over it, covering all the gauges (like on the new BMW 3 series or the stock gauge cluster on the MS3). Anyway...it looked H A R D, and I can't find it anywhere?? I found some similar ones but they were all for the STi. Has anybody seen this gauge pod or know who makes it?? I want one bad!! (boom01)

Ohh and if anybody wants to talk about BEEEWBS....go right ahead!!

 

[coyfish]

Not sure exactly what type your referring to but ive seen a few tri pods for the dash. Off the top of my head SU has one. Prosport also sells a package with 3 guages and the tri pod for the dash. I think protege garage also has one not 100% on that one. Just hit up those websites.

For the motor mount thing. Ive got the SU rear motor mount and it does vibrate more than i expected but its not too bad. Ive gotten used to it. I think most people would agree that this mod is well worth the vibration. Shifting in my mps6 was a real PITA without it.

 

[mckraut]

I am sure as soon as i post this someone will say get the forge bpv because "the stock valve" leaks

It has been proven that some stockers leak. End of story.