LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

[Maxx Mazda]

Ya, I was pissed. Running sequential requires some rewiring. For statrers, if anyone used Juan's directions to set up your Haltech they are WAY wrong. I think out of that whole thing he had 4 wires right. The rest need to be moved. Mainly injector wires, etc. Like I said, on the toher forum I posted up how to get your Haltech to control your idle, etc. It's all on there. I'll put together a detailed how to over there in the coming weeks.

 

[glyph]

okay, so I've got the car running reasonably well at the moment, however, any pushing brings the exhaust temps up to 700 degrees C, which seems a bit high, that's about 1300F. Any quick tips? The AF ratios are generally from high 11's to high 12's. Probably not much to go on, I know.

 

[LinuxRacr]

How's your timing? Is it advanced enough, or is it heavily retarded? Any exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold?

 

[glyph]

How's your timing? Is it advanced enough, or is it heavily retarded? Any exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold?

I kept the exact same ignition map as I had before when I did have an exhaust leak, and with the smaller injectors. The current map ranges from about 23-38 degrees advanced. I'm thinking I need to reduce the ignition advance, which I'm about to try out in a few minutes. I created 4 maps, each one with 1 degree less ignition across the entire map than the one before (total range of 1-4 degrees ignition retardation), so I'll try each of those in sequence and see what happens there.

 

[shane02pro5]

I'd watch those high 12's if that's under boost!

 

[glyph]

not sure what you mean, there, 12's is where your supposed to be if you are under boost, according to what I've read. That's where you make the most power, typically.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Are you still on the log manifold? What boost are you running? How big is your downpipe and exhaust? The reason I ask is because I'm wondering if back pressure is playing a role here...

 

[shane02pro5]

I am mid 12's to about 9psi and 11.8 past that on lower compression built motor. Sure you make more power if you lean out some. I'd be more comfortable under 12.2 on a stock motor. How much boost?

 

[shane02pro5]

Also... I'm no tuner! Just my .02

 

[glyph]

I just did another drive-around tuning session, and found that advancing the timing even more gave more power and lowered temps. My boost is supposed to be wastegate-spring limited to 7psi, but I think something is malfunctioning there right now and/or a serious boost leak, since I'm stuck at around 3.5 psi right now. I'll check all the lines and components. I also added fuel to keep up with the ignition, and now I only get to 650 degrees C at full throttle, so that's definitely the way to go. I'm just surprised at how much I need to advance the ignition. But if it works, it works.

shane: I thought you were saying that I needed 13s or something, so I asked since it didn't make sense. high 11s to high 12s is the range when I'm under power at any load, so I'm doing ok.

I just need to figure out where the boost is going. I need someone to sit in the engine bay and hold the vacuum lines up to their face while I'm driving...

Here's my map at the moment, still rough, but it's working decently at the moment.
www.theallains.com/maps/02glyph.6xm

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I built a boost leak tester for $6 at Crappy tire man. Don't advance the timing too much, you'll nuke your engine. Timing kills engines WAY faster than boost.

 

[glyph]

Are you still on the log manifold? What boost are you running? How big is your downpipe and exhaust? The reason I ask is because I'm wondering if back pressure is playing a role here...

sorry, didn't answer this before, yes, log manifold. 7psi max, though I'm only seeing about 3psi right now. same MAM downpipe and 2.5" from their back through a high-flow cat. In general driving I'm seeing around 500-550C, at idle cools down to 350C.

What are good temps I should be seeing?

As for my timing, I've always had more ignition advance than most folks, I think it has something to do with the 1.8 vs 2.0, but that's just a guess.

 

[glyph]

I built a boost leak tester for $6 at Crappy tire man. Don't advance the timing too much, you'll nuke your engine. Timing kills engines WAY faster than boost.

what's too much? If the engine is running better power and cooler temps, does the advanced ignition still cause harm?

 

[LinuxRacr]

This is why I asked about your timing earlier. I found that when I was retarded too much, my temps were higher. But don't advance too much either.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Well, if you set your Haltech up like Juan's instructions, it's WAY wrong. For example before I switched to Cam sensor, (I can now run TRUE sequential injection.)If I had 35* of timing set at idle, my actual timing measured with a light was 15*. At 5,000 RPM at 30* BTDC (which on any normal engine would destroy it in about 2 seconds under boost) my actual timing was only 11 degrees. I don't know how Juan cooked up that cluster **** of an install, but only 3 wires of the whole thing were correct IIRC. Glyph, I think you PM'd me not too long ago about the setup thread on the other forum. I'll keep that updated as time goes on, but I'm having a turbo upgrade done right now so the car is down for about a week.

 

[Signature Sound]

earlier in the thread, reference to home and trigger signal gains were made. does a higher number mean a higher sensitivity? so instead of zero, then 1 or 2 would be more sensitive? does this have anything to do with the air gap between the ckp and the wheel? or is it merely to dial in the sine wave being produced. seems like one setting should work for them all if it was an electrical signal being modified right?

If pdhaudio is using 2's, and the other guy is using 1's, what are we compensating for? does type of spark plug or wires have an impact on those values? compression ratio... etc. I am asking because I have tried a few different ways myself to fix an issue i am having too. at high load and high rpm (varies from time to time), there is a bog that scares me. not sure what it is???

so anyone have any updates?

 

[LinuxRacr]

The gains have to do with signal strength. My gain was set higher at first, until I fixed some electrical issues.

 

[glyph]

Well, if you set your Haltech up like Juan's instructions, it's WAY wrong. For example before I switched to Cam sensor, (I can now run TRUE sequential injection.)If I had 35* of timing set at idle, my actual timing measured with a light was 15*. At 5,000 RPM at 30* BTDC (which on any normal engine would destroy it in about 2 seconds under boost) my actual timing was only 11 degrees. I don't know how Juan cooked up that cluster **** of an install, but only 3 wires of the whole thing were correct IIRC. Glyph, I think you PM'd me not too long ago about the setup thread on the other forum. I'll keep that updated as time goes on, but I'm having a turbo upgrade done right now so the car is down for about a week.

Interesting to note, because mine is running somewhere in the 30s based on Juan's configuration. So I would be VERY interested to know the correct install. I remember when I had it on the dyno in Charleston the guy running it wondered about the high advance.

But right now I have a bigger problem of wondering where all my boost is going. I'm only getting about 3.5psi, so I have to see where my big boost leak is. I'll take out the entire intake side of the thing and see what's going on. Right now I'm leaning toward the intake manifold because one of the bolts is missing out the top, right in the center.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yeah, if a bolt is missing, you need to correct that first..lol!

 

[Signature Sound]

The gains have to do with signal strength. My gain was set higher at first, until I fixed some electrical issues.

what happens if set too high? any ideas what the major "bucking" i get could be?