XelderX's BG FSP Build

I'm assuming he has an Indexing head and a mill. makes this super easy.

by the way I'm jealous


I wish I had it that easy.

This was all done with a basic drill press and a machinist square like this one:

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I marked the location of all the vent ribs with a sharpie on the edge of the rotor face. Using just the "V" attachment on the square I could then draw lines across the face of the rotor with a sharpie showing the exact location of each vent rib. Then I measured to find the exact middle between each rib and scribed a line across the rotor face in between every rib using the "V" attachment again. Then I measured the different diameters of where I wanted my holes drilled (3 concentric circles) and made a punch mark on the rotor face for each diameter. I took that down to a friend who has a brake lathe and he scored perfect circles on the face using my punch marks as the starting point. Then I simply made punch marks where I wanted the holes which was a pattern based off of the 3 concentric circles and the scored lines between each rib. Then drill to size and turn the rotors down on the lathe again. I need to go back and add a small chamfer to each hole, but that will only take a few minutes.
 
In other news...I took the motor back out of the car today so that I could more easily remove the front swaybar. I'm off to the salvage yard tomorrow to find a DX front bar and possibly a Suzuki Samurai alternator (ask Gavin). The smaller DX bar will equal out to the right bar rate once it's hooked to my struts instead of the control arms. I also removed the ST front helper bar since it would be overkill in my setup. That saves me a little weight.
 
I wish I had it that easy.

(boom04) that makes that that much more sweeter. Mad props to joo on the job man. Super nice work for something that was basically made with hand tools.

I want a mill and a tig/mig to be my next mod for my car....lol......lathe will come later
 
I'm off to the salvage yard tomorrow to find a DX front bar and possibly a Suzuki Samurai alternator (ask Gavin).
I know nothing. I deny everything
The smaller DX bar will equal out to the right bar rate once it's hooked to my struts instead of the control arms. I also removed the ST front helper bar since it would be overkill in my setup. That saves me a little weight.
You already know what I think of the dual setup, but heres something interesting I saw.

Nate Whipple in the north east is working on an ITR for DSP. I dont know the full details of his setup, but it entails really high springrates(900-1000lbs?) with minimal/no swaybars. This is a 3rd gen Integra that has real working suspension. He is reporting that he is getting between 36-40 runs on his hoosiers before they cord. Ive got a strut suspended fwd car that weighs more than his car (probably like 150lbs right now) running (I think) slightly less wheel rate than his car. I just pulled my hoosiers off at 42 runs with no cords showing(wanted new rubber for the upcoming cali divisionals)

What does this mean? I dunno. But I would have figured that lighter wishbone suspended cars would be easier on their tires....unless it has something to do with the wheel rates being used? (or I am just a wimp behind the wheel..which could be very well true :shrug: )

Something to think about

Gavin
 
Well...I went out and found a DX front swaybar, but it appears I may have to do some extra math. I noticed when I took it off the car that it was extremely light and it was even more obvious once I weighed it next to the LX front bar. The DX bar was 3.5lbs and the LX bar was 8.5lbs. Yep...the DX bar is hollow. I did the math on it and surprisingly it only looses about 20% stiffness over a solid bar of the same dimensions. Will ran around 160 lb/ins of swaybar rate on the front. If I just use the DX bar hooked to the struts I'll have around 116 lb/ins or bar rate, but I am running a little higher spring rate than Will. I still think I'll be close to where I need to be, with maybe only a little tweaking of the spring rates to get it where I want it. Plus, I just lost another 5lbs off the front of the car.
 
Nate Whipple in the north east is working on an ITR for DSP. I dont know the full details of his setup, but it entails really high springrates(900-1000lbs?) with minimal/no swaybars. This is a 3rd gen Integra that has real working suspension. He is reporting that he is getting between 36-40 runs on his hoosiers before they cord. Ive got a strut suspended fwd car that weighs more than his car (probably like 150lbs right now) running (I think) slightly less wheel rate than his car. I just pulled my hoosiers off at 42 runs with no cords showing(wanted new rubber for the upcoming cali divisionals)

What does this mean? I dunno. But I would have figured that lighter wishbone suspended cars would be easier on their tires....unless it has something to do with the wheel rates being used? (or I am just a wimp behind the wheel..which could be very well true :shrug: )

Something to think about

Gavin

Well, there might be a few factors there. Alignment, course design, driving style, Hype-R magicky goodness....
 
If I just use the DX bar hooked to the struts I'll have around 116 lb/ins or bar rate, but I am running a little higher spring rate than Will.
What's the math to determine the rate of the sway bar? What's the relationship between sway bar rate and spring rate?
 
you just have to know the dimensions of the sway bar (length, outer diameter, wall thickness, arm length), and the characteristics of the material (modulus of elasticity, etc). i can't remember the formula; engineering school was a while ago.

there's no relationship between bar rate and spring rate; the bar is just another spring. they both factor into the wheel rate.
 
I finally got to put the motor back in the car today. I was waiting to get my alternator swap finished. The motor now has an alternator from a 1987 Suzuki Samurai on it. This alternator is 4.5lbs lighter than the stock Mazda unit. I had to do quite a bit of machine work to get a ribbed pulley on it and located in the correct position for the belt to line up. I believe the pulley I used came from a 1st Gen 626 alternator that I had laying around. 3 hours worth of figuring and lathe work later and its all good to go. I was wanting to get started on the wiring and rear rotors tomorrow, but I'm having to finalize a few things for our 24 Hour of Lemons car that will be in action this weekend in SC.
 
I'm finally back from endurance racing a $500 4 cylinder Mustang. After catching up on some sleep I got back to working on the FrankenPro. First is a shot of the very small (45 amps) Suzuki alternator. After that a few pictures of the cheap Ebay header, slightly modified. I'm not really happy with the header, but it will have to do for now. Finally, I got the front brakes mounted.

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Those rotors looks Scary..... What happened with the headers?
 
Those rotors looks Scary..... What happened with the headers?


I had to cut it off just after the secondaries come together and weld on a 2.5" pipe. The original design was a 2". I also noticed after I bolted it up that the #1 primary hits the water pipe directly behind it. I don't think it will be an issue, but I'll have to keep my eye on it.
 
I also noticed after I bolted it up that the #1 primary hits the water pipe directly behind it. I don't think it will be an issue, but I'll have to keep my eye on it.

Fitment issues and they had that much room to work with? Weak
 
i see you still have the stock oil pan... gonna play the odd with oil starvation again?
 
i see you still have the stock oil pan... gonna play the odd with oil starvation again?


For the time being. Since this car isn't a daily driver I'm a little less worried about it. It will see a lot fewer miles and get more frequent service checks than the Pro5 ever did.
 

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