Maz 3 or Mazdaspeed 3

the largest parts of the rate are the driver's age and record, combined with anticipated repair costs of the vehicle in question. Based upon that, there should be minimal difference between a regular 3 and a speed 3 on the same drivers.
 
How much money would I save on a regular Maz3 vs a new Mazdaspeed3. I driven both and much prefer the speed but I'm having trouble convincing my wife to let me buy the speed because of it needing premium. How much better is the gas mileage on the regular 3?

Someone give me some good arguments over the regular 3 because I really want the speed.

If the difference in price between regular and premium is really a consideration, by all means do not buy the speed 3.

Why?

My reasoning is simple: Do not buy any car that you cannot comfortably afford. I've read several posts about people trading in (or wanting to trade in) their speed 3 because they could not really afford it. Can you easily afford it even if gas prices go up substantially, you have other unforseen expenses, etc.?

BTW, if you drive a speed 3 like grandpa, the gas mileage is not too bad but...
 
I am about to buy a MS3 but before taking the plunge I asked my insurance company for a quote on a 3 Sport GT and a MS3 (same coverage on each with my record). The MS3 is $4.66 more per month ($56/year) to insure then the 3 Sport GT. And the agent didn't make a mistake since I saw that their system does distinguish between the two. The rate difference was only in the collision component (not liability or comprehensive).

Yeah, that sounds about right. Finally, someone can back up what I am saying. The quotes were the same when I inquired.
 
I'm buying a White sport today for 20,899 + tax and title. Doc fee at the dealer is 599. I'm going see if I can trim that some. This is the best I could find in my area.

My insurance USAA quoted about $50 more a year over the Mazda 3.
 
That's a pretty high doc fee. They may be padding it to make up for lowing the sales price. Is that price including freight?
 
That's a pretty high doc fee. They may be padding it to make up for lowing the sales price. Is that price including freight?

That quote does include freight. Total quote out the door is :

Base Price: $20,899

+Doc Fee: $599

+Taxes (7%): $1505

+Title Fee: $22

Total: $23,025

Does this seem like a good deal or should I hold out for a little bit less? I'm going to try and get some free oil jobs thrown in.
 
How much money would I save on a regular Maz3 vs a new Mazdaspeed3. I driven both and much prefer the speed but I'm having trouble convincing my wife to let me buy the speed because of it needing premium. How much better is the gas mileage on the regular 3?

Someone give me some good arguments over the regular 3 because I really want the speed.

get the speed, DI engine can be converted to hydrogen i believe....
 
I am about to buy a MS3 but before taking the plunge I asked my insurance company for a quote on a 3 Sport GT and a MS3 (same coverage on each with my record). The MS3 is $4.66 more per month ($56/year) to insure then the 3 Sport GT. And the agent didn't make a mistake since I saw that their system does distinguish between the two. The rate difference was only in the collision component (not liability or comprehensive).

definately right on the comp/collision difference. If you simply as a speed3 to your policy it doesnt raise much, but really dependings on what deductibles you want for either of them.

Crazy crap is that I was upgrading from the same coverages for a 2005 Nissan 350z which in itself is a sports car and the rates still went up for the 2008 Speed3 about $90 per 6 months. But I work for an insurance company and get a discount and also have a great record. But I did see on my printout of cards that they DO designate the car as being a SPEED 3 so I'm sure they are raising the rate from that as well.

And Insurance rates in CA have gone up $100 for everyone this year as the DOI has put that on all of us CA drivers who have to pay for all the ****** mistakes of the Uninsured Motorists in our damn state!
 
I've read (I can't site the source) that your vehicle monthly payment shouldn’t exceed 20% of your monthly take home pay (after taxes)

So if this theory holds true it would mean for example:

Your take home pay is:

$2,500.00 = $500.00 car payment – You make approximately 40k a yr
$3,000.00 = $600.00 car payment – You make approximately 45k a yr
$3,500.00 = $700.00 car payment - You make approximately 50k a yr
And so on...

*For every extra 5k per yr you make you can afford and extra $100.00 in a car payment. This sounds about right to me but will not always hold true for everyone because not everyone has the same priorities, etc. Also, then again if you make say $2,500.00 but you live at home with Mom and Dad and don’t have to pay rent you can obviously afford something a little more, etc.
 
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That quote does include freight. Total quote out the door is :

Base Price: $20,899

+Doc Fee: $599

+Taxes (7%): $1505

+Title Fee: $22

Total: $23,025

Does this seem like a good deal or should I hold out for a little bit less? I'm going to try and get some free oil jobs thrown in.

Don't let those guy touch your car for oil changes first off. As far as pricing it's not a horrible deal but you could do better. I got mine for 19,940 and 21600 OTD.
 
Don't let those guy touch your car for oil changes first off. As far as pricing it's not a horrible deal but you could do better. I got mine for 19,940 and 21600 OTD.

I posted this price to every other dealer here in the Atlanta area and the best they could offer was 1000 more than this price. Not too many sports left here in Atlanta.
 
they can get a sport if they wont. four or five in winston, nc (blk x2, wht and cosmic blue) the cb already has 600 mils on it though. they have a gt in red as well.
 
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