yeah i wouldnt think so either.... I ran it the same exact way. But when i took the car for a ride My boost gauge starts reading boost and the afc is still in way down in vac. so it must be a kinked line somewhere im thinking.
And the Build Begins!!
- Thread starter NEBoosted
- Start date
yeah i wouldnt think so either.... I ran it the same exact way. But when i took the car for a ride My boost gauge starts reading boost and the afc is still in way down in vac. so it must be a kinked line somewhere im thinking.
2.0t03speed
Member
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- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
yea thats proabbly it
Well she runs and drives!! Put about 150 miles on her so far.
Does anyone know what that sensor is that the clutch pedal pushes in when the clutch is engauged. I think it has to do with the VCTS not 100% sure though. When I press the clutch in the car does not run properly. Can i just tape that sensor closed or just unplug it?
Does anyone know what that sensor is that the clutch pedal pushes in when the clutch is engauged. I think it has to do with the VCTS not 100% sure though. When I press the clutch in the car does not run properly. Can i just tape that sensor closed or just unplug it?
I dont think that its tied to the vcts, but it could be
theres two sensors right on the pedal itself....one that tells the car its out and one that tells the car its in...you can easily see them
but I really dont think its because of those switches....what are the symptoms?
theres two sensors right on the pedal itself....one that tells the car its out and one that tells the car its in...you can easily see them
but I really dont think its because of those switches....what are the symptoms?
Well i taped it so the sensor was shut and my symtoms went away. It's the sensor that tells the car the clutch is engauged. My A/F was going crazy. lean to rich lean to rich and sometimes would stall. This is while the clutch was pressed down. When its engauged the car runs perfectly.
There may be two sensors...but this isn't what they do.
It's likely one is a Clutch Safety switch(CSS) and is used in the start circuit...and the other is likely a Clutch switch for the ECU.
Not one for in ..and one for out.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
ya, just make it always on...delete the switch
I think i might. car runs fine with it closed. I may just do a permanent job on it if i can't figure out why its doing it.
Is it just two wires?
If so..Find out if its "Open" or "Closed" with it depressed.
If its closed...Connect the two wires...If its open..Unplug the thing.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
my first car it was the first thing i modded!! 
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
(uhm)...you ma have 2 different issues....can't imagine a cel for a clutch/safety switch??
Thats what UI was thinking when he posted this days ago..but I didn't feel like fighting with people when I said it.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
(fight)come on, nothing like a good interweb fight on a car forum!(fight)
so any ideas? i'm thinking some other electrical bug? plugs gap? egr, iac??
So i got dyno tuned today in CT. Here are the numbers although the car is still acting up.
16 PSI , 256 WHP , dyno dynamics dyno which reads lower then all the rest.
Now on to my issues. we couldn't push the car over 16PSI. the thing would just fall flat on its face. Kinda like a fuel cut issue.
Now that its tuned to 16PSI. It goes like a rapped ape BUT 50% of the time you can't just hit the gas and go you have to down shift and go. It gets a fuel cut sensation when you try to just press the gas going like 75 on the highway. once it gets up to fuel boost its a bucking bronco. BUT give it 5 10 mins try it again and it works fine.
Next "kinda issue" i have defi link so i can monitor all my defi gauges. One min my full boost says 16psi. I reset the peak boost in defi link. Next pull it does 17.5. Reset the defi again. Next pull 16.5 psi. So i'm thinking i could have a boost leak or my boost controller is junk.
Summary...
1.Car runs kinda good.
2.50% of the time pressing the gas just to speed up you get "fuel cut". sometimes its fine sometimes its not.
3.Peak boost levels keep reading differently. Could it be a leak?
I think if i figure out the issues to my fuel cut i can crank it up some more. But i may just junk the ss afc and get a standalone to get rid of all this nonsense.
Any suggestions?
I did move my MAF if anyone was wondering that.
16 PSI , 256 WHP , dyno dynamics dyno which reads lower then all the rest.
Now on to my issues. we couldn't push the car over 16PSI. the thing would just fall flat on its face. Kinda like a fuel cut issue.
Now that its tuned to 16PSI. It goes like a rapped ape BUT 50% of the time you can't just hit the gas and go you have to down shift and go. It gets a fuel cut sensation when you try to just press the gas going like 75 on the highway. once it gets up to fuel boost its a bucking bronco. BUT give it 5 10 mins try it again and it works fine.
Next "kinda issue" i have defi link so i can monitor all my defi gauges. One min my full boost says 16psi. I reset the peak boost in defi link. Next pull it does 17.5. Reset the defi again. Next pull 16.5 psi. So i'm thinking i could have a boost leak or my boost controller is junk.
Summary...
1.Car runs kinda good.
2.50% of the time pressing the gas just to speed up you get "fuel cut". sometimes its fine sometimes its not.
3.Peak boost levels keep reading differently. Could it be a leak?
I think if i figure out the issues to my fuel cut i can crank it up some more. But i may just junk the ss afc and get a standalone to get rid of all this nonsense.
Any suggestions?
I did move my MAF if anyone was wondering that.
yea sounds like its the stock ecu thats giving you problems
piggybacks can really only go so far on this car, a true standalone should fix all those issues (though I would still check all the vacuum lines for leaks, make sure no check valves are backwards, and look at all your couplers)
piggybacks can really only go so far on this car, a true standalone should fix all those issues (though I would still check all the vacuum lines for leaks, make sure no check valves are backwards, and look at all your couplers)
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
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- New Caney TX
Did you get a cel. MAF high voltage? FCD to clamp the voltage so it doesn't see 5v.
No CEL so it makes life all the more difficult. My friend owns an OBDII scanner so i'm gonna check for codes on monday.
The guy who tuned it (JR , well known in the evo sti world) highly recomend i get an AEM (which i dont know where to find). I'm going to try and work out the kinks over the next couple weeks and see what happens. if i cant get it right, standalone here I come. I will just keep the SS AFC for state inspections.
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