installed single runner intake manifold on my mp5!

This is the way i see it.

Mazda had both the single runner manifold and the dual runner manifold available when they built the protege.

They know the difference the manifold makes in both low end and high end power. They chose to go with the dual runner design for the protege becasue it provides more power and a flatter power band where as the single runner provides more highend.

Dual runner is better for daily driving, more power below peak but has a lower peak

Single runner is better for high rpm driving and FI applications or all motor builds that flow alot more power then stock.

Someone with a stockish motor that upgrades to a single runner may find a noticable loss of low end and midrange power.



IF you decide to go to a single runner manifold you may want to get a lightened flywheel and lightened pullies to get back some of the lost low end.

But low end, off load driving doesn't matter. You don't USE power down there as it is... when you are cruising who cares as long as you can get the car moving. Everytime you decide to have some fun with the car, overtake, climb a hill, or race on the track, invariably you are using top end, be it a daily driver or otherwise. If you lack the grunt, you back it down a gear to get the car back into a usable power band.

The loss wouldn't be so noticable as to make the car difficult to drive around at low RPM. You may even find a marginal improvement in fuel economy by dropping a little low end.

Further to that, the 626 is a family car, and mazda saw fit to give it a single runner manifold. 626 drivers don't complain about a lack of low end power.

The reasons why mazda gave us a dual runner is likely to be to provide better fuel economy on a slightly more powerful motor, than to give us a flatter power curve.

Also, the standard manifold is *incredibly* lossy. I've seen numbers - can't remember them, but Kooldino will vouch for just how lossy the dual runner mani is. the way it is designed delivers vastly reduced air flow. The 626 mani may not be "tuned" for low end, but it will most likely flow more air at low RPM and thus make up for some of the loss.

Yes, to make the most out of it you will want some form of aftermarket management (the 626 computer is obviously tuned specifically for this manifold, the OEM 323 computer isn't), but the benefits of doing this far outweigh any perceived disadvantages.

As stated before, the LATER you can achieve peak torque in the rev range, the GREATER the acceleration because of an improved ability to leverage gearing - the car will accellerate faster by pushing the torque band further up the curve. You are worried about a "feeling" of lethargy.... in real terms its not there.
 
I just got a 626 mani, should I put it on my p5 (intake, ehxaust, and soon header, but turboing in a few months) or just sell it?

Help since I can't decide
 
Saw this question earlier in the thread but didnt see an answer... does the IM from protege garage come ported & polished?

Do you get a CEL if you block off the EGR tube?
 
No, and yes... The manifold doesn't come ported. And if you use an EGR tube and allow for a breather, you should be okay, from what I gather. I guess I'll verify that for sure shortly. =P My EGR port on my exhaust was rusted together, so I need to grind the port down and seal it off, then run a breather off my intake.

Goddamnit, I miss my IRTB setup and standalone. Stupid Cali emissions.
 
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yea just leave the egr unit plugged in the harness and you will not throw a check engine light
 
Goddamnit, I miss my IRTB setup and standalone. Stupid Cali emissions.
Wait, so you're not running all that anymore? Man, I remember reading about that a lot back in the day but I don't think I ever saw any pictures of the final setup.
 
Yeah, it was pretty absurd sounding, and the acceleration and throttle response were... Well, ridiculous. I can't even describe it. But yeah, that all is in the past. *sighs* Meh. I'm trying to play by the rules in CA, but there's too much temptation. =)
 
Man that really sucks. So what all happened to everything? Sell them to some lucky Protege owner? LOL, I'm not asking for them because I don't think they'd work with my setup but I really want to see what they look like in a Protege.
 
Nah, the IRTB setup were sold off to another friend with an MX3, and the Motec M4 went to someone on eBay. I've got something new in the works, though, I promise. =)
 
Yeah, but it's crappy, and out of date. I'll start a new one with real progress pictures once I make some progress worth showing. ;) A lot (60+%) of my mods are invisible (read; internals.)
 
never in my life did i think i could learn so much from a thread, you guys are smart as s*** hopefully ill be on ur level in about 5 years.

KEEP IT UP!
 
what an amazing and informative thread... thought i'd bump it for people to look at it again...

i really think now that i will look for one.... just a couple of questions
does it matter what year the 626IM came from?
do i have to get that vacuum line for the cruise control if i never use it?
and would your map for the SS AFC work with the auto FS-DE's?

hmmm.... since i'm already throwing an CEL i prolly wont notice if something else came up... i have a 4-2-1 header and i already feel the loss of low-end power.... i couldnt even imagine how it will be when i add this set-up... and i'm even thinking of bumping up to a 2.5" exhaust.... hmmm...
 
i really think now that i will look for one.... just a couple of questions
does it matter what year the 626IM came from?
do i have to get that vacuum line for the cruise control if i never use it?
and would your map for the SS AFC work with the auto FS-DE's?

Okay, a few things to address here; One, yeah, it does matter which year it's from... The injector differences happened during a mid-year refresh on the IM. Go ahead and check the post above to see what to look for.

You don't have to use the cruise vac line, if you don't want it. You'll need to keep the MAP connected, and you can remove all the vac sources for the VICS and VTCS once you put on the new mani. Other sources that you'll need to consider are the vac source for the fuel pressure regulator (Should be connected to a solenoid that acts as a check valve, and it'll be pretty obvious, annnnd... I think that's it. Pull the Cruise if you aren't gonna use it, it saves you a LOT of room, and makes certain procedures much easier.

hmmm.... since i'm already throwing an CEL i prolly wont notice if something else came up... i have a 4-2-1 header and i already feel the loss of low-end power.... i couldnt even imagine how it will be when i add this set-up... and i'm even thinking of bumping up to a 2.5" exhaust.... hmmm...

You should not have lost low end power, ESPECIALLY with a 4-2-1 rather than a 4-1. Even with a 4-1, it shouldn't make a difference in low end power, really; Velocity SHOULD be good enough to get you perfectly reasonable low range scavenging. I'm betting... In fact, I'd put money on the fact that that CEL is robbing you of any of that low end power. Get your O2S sorted out, and that should fix it. I feel I fixed mine the 'right way', but that's subject to opinion and interpretation

What I did is I relocated my first O2S to the collector at the bottom, the stock location for the second O2S, then move the second O2S behind the primary cat. This required the extension and mounting of all these wires, of course, but it seems to work REALLY well, and made the mixture much more consistent back when I was with the MP3 ECU. All four plugs were a beautiful light golden tan after I pulled them.

So, do this (or some other form of O2S fix,) and reset your ECU, and you'll be golden. The rest of the exhaust should work well at 2.5" if you're looking to increase your effective rev range. If not, stick with 2.25 - 2.35" exhausts. The Racing Beat is well made, or if you have a really good local shop, you could get a custom dealy that is likely going to far nicer. I like having the degree of control a fully custom exhaust allows. I don't like using stock flanges, 'cause usually there are gaps and flow problems with differences in piping, etcetera... But that's just me being anal.
 
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Okay, a few things to address here; One, yeah, it does matter which year it's from... The injector differences happened during a mid-year refresh on the IM. Go ahead and check the post above to see what to look for.

You don't have to use the cruise vac line, if you don't want it. You'll need to keep the MAP connected, and you can remove all the vac sources for the VICS and VTCS once you put on the new mani. Other sources that you'll need to consider are the vac source for the fuel pressure regulator (Should be connected to a solenoid that acts as a check valve, and it'll be pretty obvious, annnnd... I think that's it. Pull the Cruise if you aren't gonna use it, it saves you a LOT of room, and makes certain procedures much easier.



You should not have lost low end power, ESPECIALLY with a 4-2-1 rather than a 4-1. Even with a 4-1, it shouldn't make a difference in low end power, really; Velocity SHOULD be good enough to get you perfectly reasonable low range scavenging. I'm betting... In fact, I'd put money on the fact that that CEL is robbing you of any of that low end power. Get your O2S sorted out, and that should fix it. I feel I fixed mine the 'right way', but that's subject to opinion and interpretation

What I did is I relocated my first O2S to the collector at the bottom, the stock location for the second O2S, then move the second O2S behind the primary cat. This required the extension and mounting of all these wires, of course, but it seems to work REALLY well, and made the mixture much more consistent back when I was with the MP3 ECU. All four plugs were a beautiful light golden tan after I pulled them.

So, do this (or some other form of O2S fix,) and reset your ECU, and you'll be golden. The rest of the exhaust should work well at 2.5" if you're looking to increase your effective rev range. If not, stick with 2.25 - 2.35" exhausts. The Racing Beat is well made, or if you have a really good local shop, you could get a custom dealy that is likely going to far nicer. I like having the degree of control a fully custom exhaust allows. I don't like using stock flanges, 'cause usually there are gaps and flow problems with differences in piping, etcetera... But that's just me being anal.

awesome... thanks to both of you.... never thought about switching the o2 sensor positions... and put it behind the cat you say? what if i dont have a cat.... (peep) so this will be priority one first....

im going to pm u so i can stop threadjacking...
 
Uuuuhm, if you don't have a cat, then... Install one? =) It doesn't really reduce power. Just noise and emissions. If you really don't wanna have one in there, you'll need some other form of CEL eliminator, such as the resistor mod, or the anti-fouler trick on the rear O2S.
 

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