Stuttering - My Thoughts

Bravnik

Member
Ok so a lot of people have the so called stutter. It's most noticable when you downshift to 5th to pass or when passing in 6th. There has been a lot of solutions (Colder Plugs, Coil Spring Stretch, fuel pumps, PCM updates yadda yadda yadda).

Now I'm sure that some people hit fuel cut and have fuel cut issues, but on stock MS3's or ones without upgraded TMIC/FMIC and full TBE's you should never hit fuel cut.

I have preached over and over again for people to check their clamps for TMIC and the Turbo Intake Clamp (5 in total). I have replaced my TMIC hoses with SU Silicone Hoses myself as well as my Recirc Hose.

This car is very very finiky when it comes to boost leaks. Even a small one can cause trouble and give you stutter. Here is my first hand example as of last week.

So I know for a fact that I have all my clamps tight as I check them all the time. However, the other day I got my FP replaced as well as the PCM update as I was still having stutter in 75deg weather. After my FP upgrade I ran some tests and WTF - Stutter!!!

I also changed my Forge Spring to the Red Spring and after doing so I noticed my Boost PSI was holding lower. So after the FP update I decided to go back to Blue with 2 Shims. Ran some tests and my PSI was still low (16PSI) and would not go up! Stutter as well was still there!!! I thought maybe my MBC was acting up.

So I found the problem. The Vacuum line that split off of the BPV and went to my Boost Gauge Silenoid was LOOSE! So I got another clamp and clamped it off tight again as well as replaced all the clamps on the T and the hose going to the Silenoid.

Problem Fixed!!!! Stutter GONE!!!! Boost at 18PSI holding 17.7PSI. That one little small ass hose that was loose caused all of my problems. My car pulls so smooth now its totally amazing. There is no telling how long that one little hose was loose and leaking boost.

Moral of the story. Check ALL of your vacuum lines if you're experiencing stutter. Specially if you're stock or have minor mods. I have a simple MBC, CAI, Test Pipe as my power mods.

Mods - You guys really need to sticky a post on checking your clamps and vacuum lines. What people are most likely experiencing is a boost leak and nothing more.

PS - After the PCM Upgrade and FP upgrade I have noticed one thing. My car will hit 18PSI and I will NOT get boost cut. I use to get it at any point when my car hit 18PSI. Maybe it's just me, but I'm going to datalog it on the DashHawk when I get a chance. Until then, check your clamps and vacuum lines :)
 
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For us engine bay noobs.....could we get pictures of the exact clamps to check?
That would make this sticky material for sure:)
 
how did you get boost cut with your map clamp? You said you were running 19psi for quite some time now??
 
how did you get boost cut with your map clamp? You said you were running 19psi for quite some time now??

I adjusted the Map Clamp where it showed full boost. However, I will have to turn it down again as I hit boost cut this AM on the way to work.
 
For us engine bay noobs.....could we get pictures of the exact clamps to check?
That would make this sticky material for sure:)

Sorry I don't have any handy, but they are simple to find. There are two hoses that connect to your TMIC. There are 2 clamps per hose, so that is 4 of the 5. The last one is at your turbo inlet. To find it, just follow the tube from your airbox (cai, sri) between the battery box and the engine and you will see where it connects to your Turbo.

Just be sure to actually put a ratchet to the clamps and not just try to wiggle them.
 
That is one of the most important "vacuum" lines on a turbo car. A pinhole leak there will potentially allow the valve to open pretty much all the time absolutely killing performance.
 

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