Running a Haltech? What accesories you got?

[avarela86]

Well i've been running my Haltech for some time and am looking into buying a few of their other products. Like the TPS and the Idel control sensor. Anyone already running these and notice a difference in driveability?

I run an F10X and the car after a long day of driving SUCKZ. Idles funky like it wants to die and is HORRIBLE with the A/C on. But that's just common with everyones car with A/C on. I need to dyno with A/C on and then A/C off.

 

[mspHtown]

are you running a haltech boost controller?

 

[avarela86]

No run a Greddy Type-S with the three knobs. I was thinking of switching but why really if I can control the gain with the graddy and not the haltech. Only difference I see is that the Haltech controller runs WITH the ECM. So I guess it KNOWS that it is going to see "X" amount of boost.

 

[mspHtown]

No run a Greddy Type-S with the three knobs. I was thinking of switching but why really if I can control the gain with the graddy and not the haltech. Only difference I see is that the Haltech controller runs WITH the ECM. So I guess it KNOWS that it is going to see "X" amount of boost.

well if i were to go full standalone, i would want the computer to run everything (i.e. fuel/timing/idle motor/boost control/etc.). it would be nice to be able to control everything through one unit and have it work properly together (but thats a whole different task!).

 

[shane02pro5]

Are you using the closed loop feature. It can be used to control idle also. I have mine running off of a narrow band signal from my PLX wideband. It seems to idle better around 13afr's. I have an F10A but the setting should be the same.

 

[avarela86]

I don't do my tuning it's done by TBK. Which I should be dynoing on wed. Mosly just want to be able to have a better idle when things like ac and stuff kick on.

Shane how ruff is the shake when you flip the a/c or turn the lights on? Also what are you idling at? You run the TPS or idle motor?

 

[shane02pro5]

Mine is the best its ever been after playing with it last week. It idles much better around 13.5. This is running through the tps wire and haltech iat senor I'm assuming. I had to recalibrate my throttle holding it to like 1-2% and setting 0 there. Then set closed loop to work above 500 instead of like1300 where I think it was. It's simple to setup as long as you are wired into a NB 0-1v 02 signal. I don't think it can be done with a WB 0-5v.

I do still have a dip when the a/c kicks in but not quite as bad as before the closed loop idle.
One think for sure is I cant jam the tunes with the a/c going!

 

[avarela86]

One think for sure is I cant jam the tunes with the a/c going!

Why not? I have a voltage readout from my turbo timer and when I flip the A/C on I go from having 14.7 volts to like 13.8 then drops to like 12.9 with lights and then dips more every time the bass hits. Is this the same with you? I am running my TPS sensor to the stock placement and the same for the Idle motor.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I have probably every Haltech accessory that wil lwork with the Slowtege, with the exception of the idle control. I use the E6X, the Haltech boost controller, etc. I run closed loop of the stock narrowband (stoich voltage on the stock narrowband is 980Mv IIRC) and I get a perfect idle, etc with the stock ECU controlling it. When I turn my A/C on, the stock ECU compensates for it by opening the IAC a bit more, but my AFR's will dip lean for just a second (due to the added air.) But the closed loop kicks in right away and corrects it. I have basically factory driveability, but it took ALOT of tuning, espesially with the closed loop settings to get things taht way. Closed loop is your friend for good driveability, but it's not a band-aid for a bad map. I had my base map REAL close to begin with, and then used closed loop to get it perfect. But remember, with closed loop you lose your throttle pump settings.

Your voltage shouldn't drop that much. Mine does right away when the A/C and fans kick on, but it comes right back up to high 13's. I'm wondering what's up there... The TPS sensor from Haltech is not required as the stocker works wicked. Make sure it's calibrated correctly (only takes liek 2 seconds.)

 

[avarela86]

Max I don't do any of my tuning. I just take it to Manuel and he tunes it on the dyno. But he's never sat in it for long period of time to retune for street. I want to start learning but I won't even know where to begin.I have it setup with the stock TPS wired in and not sure how to calibrate it. I don't even have a laptop. LOL

Whats throttle pump?

 

[shane02pro5]

Desktop computer with 500ft. extension cord FTW!!

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Sounds like you need to read up on the manual there Alfredo! All of the driveability concerns that you list are all in the tune.

 

[avarela86]

great....I just don't want to spend the money to get it tuned. I want to finish my suspension. Dyno day is tom. IF I go, I want to say most of these issues I will try to get addressed.

 

[mspHtown]

great....I just don't want to spend the money to get it tuned. I want to finish my suspension. Dyno day is tom. IF I go, I want to say most of these issues I will try to get addressed.

i think you should worry about fixing your tuning issues before you do anything with your suspension.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

+1 to that. With my Haltech I get better driveability than stock. It's an amateur tuner's mistake to go all for numbers and that's it, but on the street i ndaily life the car drives like s*** because it's not tuned properly. Tell Manuel to get his s*** together and tune ya right!

 

[avarela86]

No he doesn't ONLY tune for the number. Don't start saying he's an amateur cause he's prolly been tuning b4 both of us were born. I ran great when it was tuned at 253 everything was great/street etc but its on a base map that dumps fuel left and right and lean in random areas now. Therefore it runs bad. I just wanted to see if I wasn't running the extra accessories it would help. he told me yesterday its all wired into my stock parts. as far as the TPS and Idle.

 

[mspHtown]

No he doesn't ONLY tune for the number. Don't start saying he's an amateur cause he's prolly been tuning b4 both of us were born. I ran great when it was tuned at 253 everything was great/street etc but its on a base map that dumps fuel left and right and lean in random areas now. Therefore it runs bad. I just wanted to see if I wasn't running the extra accessories it would help. he told me yesterday its all wired into my stock parts. as far as the TPS and Idle.

again, why dont you spend the money on fixing your base map before wasting it on the suspension.

you have a brand new built block right? you just said it runs "lean in random areas now." arent you concerned about preserving your engine?

 

[Maxx Mazda]

No he doesn't ONLY tune for the number. Don't start saying he's an amateur cause he's prolly been tuning b4 both of us were born. I ran great when it was tuned at 253 everything was great/street etc but its on a base map that dumps fuel left and right and lean in random areas now. Therefore it runs bad. I just wanted to see if I wasn't running the extra accessories it would help. he told me yesterday its all wired into my stock parts. as far as the TPS and Idle.

I edited my post and added a face to better suggest my humor. But I agree, get the car tuned right first, then buy suspension.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

He's right about the stock TPS and idle. The stock ECU has no problem controlling the idle even with the Haltech. Lemme ask, is your MAF plugged in? Even though you don't need it, I still run mine because I believe the ECU references some of it's info to stabilize idle. If you're not running yours anymore, it might be something to look into.

 

[avarela86]

LOL I run a F10X therefore I still need the GHEY MAF. Infact I need a bigger intake but can't find a solution cause the MAF sees passed the .5 volts and throws a CEL when I go beyond 10PSI. I hit 12ish a few nights ago cause it was really cold and I through a CEL every time. It's been down to like 5PSI since then not looking to build again any time soon. We'll cut a hole into the intake AFTER the MAF and it should solve the problem. Unless there is a way to get a 3' intake somehow. But yeah I still run it but removed the FIRST O2 sensor since it's in the way. Should I reconnect it for the ECU to reference?