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time for another group hug kids...lol(group)
Game On Again
- Thread starter laloosh
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From reading all this it seems that dadas theory is tha you are currently limited to that boost based on your mods. For s**** and gigles run an open dp and add a full 3 inch intake and your boost will be higher. Just my $.02.
Are you agreeing to dadas theory?
What I meant by 3 inch was, use the ARP or equivlent larger intake tube vs the stock one that necks down to 2 inches at some points. (The turbo inlet tube.)
What dada is saying is basically true. Any control loop including the stock boost control NEEDS the MAP value in order to control the wastegate for it to achieve its target boost. Its a simple PID controller. Its the same thing as your cruise control. By clamping your MAP signal its analogous to setting your cruise control to 80mph but tricking the speed signal into telling the ECU that the car is only going 65. The car will try to adjust this by opening the throttle more. See how the control loop is now broken? There is no way the ECU can control the speed if it doesn't know the speed of the car just as the ECU can not control boost if it doesn't know the actual boost being produced.
But that doesn't change the fact that your boost did not change when you lowered the clamp voltage. This just tells you that there is something else going on that is limiting your boost to 19 psi. At this point no one really knows. But its actually helpful to have these discussions because it increases the overall understanding of the car but raises more questions in the process.
Ok now its time for a group hug
Removing unwanted back pressure from behind the turbo will give you a quicker spool. You have now introduced efficency to the turbo, so youre going to boost a little higher now. I still dont think that the intake tube is going to give you more than .5 increase in boost. Im not agreeing with Dada theory, this is based off my own theory and knowledge of our cars.
I may not be understanding dadas idea fully, but what I think dada us saying is that since your ecu can never see the 15.6 psi because you clamped the map at 14, the ecu will continue to allow boost to rise if it can. Free up some intake and open the dp and I think it will rise.
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Unfortunately Chris, this isnt going to be that easy bro. I wonder what would happen if you did a ECU reset via disconnecting the battery? Also, that cold air you have down there is obviously helping you!
Well there it is.. Map clamp is helping you out than.
If that was the case it wouldn't be a very good boost controller since it would be open loop. Since the ECU can't see more than the clamped voltage, it would basically be adjusting boost blindly (by fixed amounts). Any change in temp or such would throw it way off. Back to the cruise control analogy, that would be like telling the ECU to go 80 mph by setting the throttle to 60%. Well what happens when you hit a large hill? Your speed will go down but the throttle will stay at 60% because thats what it thinks will give you 80 mph. By using the actual speed to control the throttle, it closes the loop which makes for a much better control.
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Dude, it sounds like you are yelling. What you are learning and sharing is appreciated.
AutoXRacer
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Stock boost...
I don't think anyone is questioning whether map clamps work or not. But most people use them in conjunction with some sort of external boost control whether it be mechanical or electrical. In this case the stock boost control is being left intack which is now hindered by false ECU signals. Normal MBC/EBCs still work with BCD/MAP clamps because they are still receiving the correct boost information.
But obviously laloosh is not overboosting. I'm curious as to what would happen if you set your clamp to 15.6psi. If it doesn't affect anything, I would leave it there so that the ECU isn't thinking the boost if off from the target value.
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